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Old 06-20-2014, 08:22 PM   #21
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City: Ft Pierce
Vessel Name: Freedom
Vessel Model: Albin 40
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There are several ways to do it...any of them are fine as long as "cored roof" crush is prevented and adequate backing prevents pull through. (assuming the top skin is strong enough to take the weight and not oil can/flex/deform, etc.....)

Major surgery isn't necessary and epoxy/reinforcing in itself used correctly is adequate.

The trick is to use the right combo...certainly not ALL of the suggestions combined.
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Old 06-20-2014, 08:56 PM   #22
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City: Iroquois, ON
Vessel Name: She:Kon
Vessel Model: Bateau TW28
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Yes adequate backing for your roof top attachments is important!

Reminds me of a post on The Marine Intaller's Rant by Bill Bishop.

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"It's not the boat "you built" until you've sworn at it, bled on it, sweated over it, cried beside it and then threatened to haul the POS outside and burn it!"
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Old 06-21-2014, 06:59 AM   #23
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Very nice mast. I wouldn't mount vhf antennas on it if you run with 2 vhfs at the same station. If you have 1 on fly bridge and 1 in PH, no problem. Many of us use 2 or more at one pilotting station and the separation in 2 antennas that close together(on mast) would be a recipe for splashover.
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Old 06-21-2014, 07:17 AM   #24
City: Tuckerton, NJ
Vessel Model: 36 Gulstar MarkII
Join Date: Mar 2011
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I'm using EDSON mounting plates, device matching plates and Aluminum masts on my Gulfstar. I'll have the ability to have 4 if I cut the Aluminum supplied masts in half. My application will require 3 masts one centered the other 2 offset one on each side.
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Old 06-21-2014, 09:47 AM   #25
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Way too complex. The reason for the balsa core is rigidity. Don't remove it. Aluminum is cheap, thin and easy to work for a backing plate.

If truth be known... My mast, much higher (more leverage) than the one shown only has a teak plate on the outside and was found to have no backing plate. It worked for twenty some years until I put on a backing plate. No epoxy around the bolts either (gasp). No leaks, no cracks, no crush.

I am also in the process of building a new mast. But I am just designing it and will have it fabricated by an aluminum shop. The off the shelf options are a bit limiting.

There is significant camber on the pilothouse roof. Go up there with a straight edge.

I will drill oversize holes from the top and fill with epoxy and redrill as I have with everything thing else I have rebedded since ownership. Gravity is your friend when using this method.
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Old 06-21-2014, 09:54 AM   #26
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City: Ft Pierce
Vessel Name: Freedom
Vessel Model: Albin 40
Join Date: Oct 2011
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Good post Northern Spy...

Bligh - Sorry to insult your experience if you are already pretty good at this kind of stuff...if not ...remember when drilling holes in a pretty good camber that depending on how you drill, vertical or 90deg to the surface will determine the hole spacing on the backing plate...

More than once I have forgotten or tried to use prefabbed stuff and couldn't line up the bolt holes.
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Old 06-25-2014, 09:31 PM   #27
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City: Long Beach, CA
Vessel Name: FREEDOM
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I'm thinking of going the same route, but was wondering if the self leveling mast mounts are better?

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Old 06-25-2014, 09:51 PM   #28
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City: Santa Cruz, CA
Vessel Name: Concerto
Vessel Model: 1980 Cheoy Lee
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 1,517
Thanks for all the comments. I'm actually changing to a different mast, but the install should be the same. I think I'm going to have a yard install it. I'll discuss the final details of the install with them and I'll do the all the prep for them. Then run all the electronics myself. I'll problem leave the final wiring to to the panel to an aybc electrician.
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