Tinned Marine Wire

[Ron T]

I am redoing the AC-DC wires and panels on a 1981 Grand Banks 49' vessel. All AC and DC are red and black. I found a web site Tinned Marine Wire, The power behind it all with 250' roll of 10-3 AWG wire at $ 319. delivered. Sounds like a good price. Has any one delt with these folks before and have any comments about the quality of their wire. Also after side by side comparison of Blue Seas and Paneltronics, found Blue Seas much better construction.

 

[rwidman]

I am redoing the AC-DC wires and panels on a 1981 Grand Banks 49' vessel. All AC and DC are red and black. I found a web site Tinned Marine Wire, The power behind it all with 250' roll of 10-3 AWG wire at $ 319. delivered. Sounds like a good price. Has any one delt with these folks before and have any comments about the quality of their wire. Also after side by side comparison of Blue Seas and Paneltronics, found Blue Seas much better construction.

I haven't dealt with that company so I have no opinion but I have dealt with this one:
GenuineDealz.com - Marine Electrical, Boat Wire & Cable, Custom Battery Cables

and have been very pleased with their quality, selection, and prices.

10-3 cable is great for your 120 volt AC wiring but you won't use much for DC circuits.

If you are completely rewiring the boat, the current standard for DC negative is yellow, not black. The reason is, it won't be confused with the AC "hot" conductor which is usually black.

 

[Northern Spy]

I ordered my bow thruster cables from tinnedmarinewire.com. Fast response on order shipped next day. Brand name made in USA cable. Well finished lugs. I would purchase from Greg again.

 

[IslandEagle]

250' roll of 10-3 AWG wire

Just out of curiosity, will you be needing that much 10-3? For most of your AC wiring I would expect that you would be using 14-3 or perhaps 12-3 in the galley area. 10-3 would be appropriate for 30 amp circuits, and I would not imagine that there are that many of those on your boat.

BTW, as an aside, I love t he GB 49s. I don't know if you have noticed but that's what I keep telling GalaxyGirl to consider.

Scott Welch
Island Eagle

 

[funangler]

You don't want all your ac to be 10-3 the size does not bend or fit well in small boxes that you will terminate into. Beside incoming power, ac unit and stove everything else will not need that size. If you are going to remote area you can use it to trade with others if you buy the big spool. If you are rewiring a boat buy the best crimping tool you can find after a few thousand connection you will be thankful.

 

[rwidman]

.......... 10-3 would be appropriate for 30 amp circuits, ............

Yes, I should have caught that.

 

[Ron T]

Thank you for the advice. I am removing the bow and stern 50 amp-120/240VAC and the 50 amp-120VAC Hubbell connectors and installing 2 30 Amp 120VAC SMART PLUGS units both fore and aft. One 30 amp just for Air conditioning and other 30 amp for house power. Finding the proper Automatic Electrical load disconnect units is my problem now. The units that Blue Seas was trying to bring to market appears to be hung up in reliability.It shows in their catalog but not available. Looking for a different route now.

 

[Codger2]

I am removing the bow and stern 50 amp-120/240VAC and the 50 amp-120VAC Hubbell connectors and installing 2 30 Amp 120VAC SMART PLUGS units both fore and aft.

I did this a couple years ago and even bought a separate "Smart" shore power cord for marina hopping. (My existing cord is fastened to the finger at my slip and takes an act of Congress to remove it.)

 

[rwidman]

Thank you for the advice. I am removing the bow and stern 50 amp-120/240VAC and the 50 amp-120VAC Hubbell connectors and installing 2 30 Amp 120VAC SMART PLUGS units both fore and aft. One 30 amp just for Air conditioning and other 30 amp for house power. Finding the proper Automatic Electrical load disconnect units is my problem now. The units that Blue Seas was trying to bring to market appears to be hung up in reliability.It shows in their catalog but not available. Looking for a different route now.

Wouldn't a manual switch work and be less complicated and costly?

 

[psneeld]

Wow!!!!! Can't imagine why anyone would revert to 2-30 amp versus a 50 amp service. I'm leaving the 2-30 and never looking back after upgrading to a 50 amp service.

No experience with the company...but checking their source of wre couldn't be that hard if you call them.

The price seems good...sometimes these internet sellers dump more expensive stuff even cheaper because it's not moving as everyone said...demand for it may be low.

I'd love to hear more about Blue Seas versus Paneltronics as I'm about to repanel myself from 2-30 service to a 50 amp.

 

[IslandEagle]

I'd love to hear more about Blue Seas versus Paneltronics as I'm about to repanel myself from 2-30 service to a 50 amp.

I have been very pleased with the quality of Blue Seas. I'd actually use the word "perfect" to describe the BS products that I have used.

Scott Welch
Island Eagle

 

[psneeld]

I have been very pleased with the quality of Blue Seas. I'd actually use the word "perfect" to describe the BS products that I have used.

Scott Welch
Island Eagle

I agree...my experience with Panetronics has been good as well...was wondering what the OP saw that he didn't like.

Plus BS didn't advertise what I wanted...so if I ordered custom from them would it be possible and reasonable.

 

[Daddyo]

I get my wire from Pacer. US made and really good prices if you have an account. Their products are top notch.

Pacer Group - Marine Wire, Battery Cable and Electrical Parts

 

[FlyWright]

Another wire source I like:

Genuinedealz

 

[FF]

Overkill , low voltage drop is always a goal on DC circuits.

Our solution is to wire the boat with tinned 10-2 for DC, everywhere.

With discount suppliers a 500 ft roll isnt too pricy and will do a simple boat.

Size the CB to the wire , not the load. Item protection is for a fuse or much smaller CB at the user.

 

[rwidman]

Another wire source I like:

Genuinedealz

Yes. See post #2.

 

[rwidman]

Wow!!!!! Can't imagine why anyone would revert to 2-30 amp versus a 50 amp service. I'm leaving the 2-30 and never looking back after upgrading to a 50 amp service............

There are valid reasons to install or retain a twin 30 amp electrical system on a boat.

Some smaller or older marinas don't have 50 amp service or if they do, it's not at all the slips.

If you don't plan on using the AC system (assuming that it is on one leg and the rest of the boat on the other), you don't have to pay for 50 amp service, just 30 amp.

Cordsets and other accessories are much less expensive for 30 amp even when you account for needing two. They are also lighter in weight and can be stored in a smaller space.

If necessary, you can draw 60 amps on a twin 30 amp system while the maximum for a 50 amp system is 50 amps.


Personally, I wouldn't rip one out to install the other unless I had a compelling reason to do so. The parts alone will cost several hundred dollars.

 

[Sceptic]

I second Daddyo. Pacer Marine manufactures their wire and cable in their own factory in Tampa FL.

There is another well known brand that puts out bids for wire and cable with foreign factories, located, well guess where.

Back when Genuinedealz was still run by it’s founders it was called Best Boat Wire and they sold only Pacer wire and cable. Never dealt with Genuinedealz so I don’t know if that is still true or not.

Interesting fact - I went thru a little over 2000 ft of wire and cable when I rebuilt the little DeFever. Sure glad it was before the price of copper skyrocketed,

Mike

 

[psneeld]

There are valid reasons to install or retain a twin 30 amp electrical system on a boat.

Some smaller or older marinas don't have 50 amp service or if they do, it's not at all the slips.

If you don't plan on using the AC system (assuming that it is on one leg and the rest of the boat on the other), you don't have to pay for 50 amp service, just 30 amp.

Cordsets and other accessories are much less expensive for 30 amp even when you account for needing two. They are also lighter in weight and can be stored in a smaller space.

If necessary, you can draw 60 amps on a twin 30 amp system while the maximum for a 50 amp system is 50 amps.


Personally, I wouldn't rip one out to install the other unless I had a compelling reason to do so. The parts alone will cost several hundred dollars.

You are correct assuming the rarer 50 amp /125v service...unfortunately I didn't make it clear becaus most of the knowlegeable boaters I know would have thought instantly of the much more common 125/250 50 amp service which ibrings 100 amps to the boat...almost 50% more than 2 - 30's.

You can always adapt down but not up if you want to.

Yes 50 125/250 amp set-up is a lot more expensive but when you live aboard or extensively cruise...it's worth it's weight in gold.

So far on my trip...I've actually ecountered few places without 50's and been forced to rent a splitter at extra cost because the only thing available was a 50.

So it makes a lot of sense to me ...a cruiser...and for a lot of 30 amp boats with air conditioners that seem to burn up their cords at an alarming rate.

 

[caltexflanc]

Yes. See post #2.

Ron, one advantage for you about Genuinedealz, whom I have had great experience with, if that they are right down the road from you in Brunswick GA.

 

[caltexflanc]

I'll add myself to the list of head scratchers why someone would spend a bunch of money converting a boat with 50 amp service to two 30's. Pay a lot more to get less? If it is because 30 is what is available at the dock, but a Smart Y from Charles, Hubble or Marinco and be done with it.

 

[rwidman]

Ron, one advantage for you about Genuinedealz, whom I have had great experience with, if that they are right down the road from you in Brunswick GA.

Yes, shipping takes almost no time. If they were any closer I would have to pay sales tax!

 

[FF]

50A of 240 has 50A on each leg.

A "Y" combiner put into 2 30A outlets will be limited to 30 per leg.

This MIGHT be worth the effort IF the boat actually has a 240V item that requires power.

On most boats the 240V is used as 2 legs of 120V so 2 power hoses will allow two legs of 30A to be brought aboard , regardless of how the dock is wired.

Some docks do not have 240, just 120V .

 

[psneeld]

50A of 240 has 50A on each leg.

A "Y" combiner put into 2 30A outlets will be limited to 30 per leg.

This MIGHT be worth the effort IF the boat actually has a 240V item that requires power.

On most boats the 240V is used as 2 legs of 120V so 2 power hoses will allow two legs of 30A to be brought aboard , regardless of how the dock is wired.

Some docks do not have 240, just 120V .

Im not seeing that FF...each leg supplies a different 50 amp panel....with jumpers to a 3rd 250V panel if needed.

So please explain why it's not 100 amps versus only 60 with 2-30's?

 

[boatpoker]

I am redoing the AC-DC wires and panels on a 1981 Grand Banks 49' vessel. All AC and DC are red and black.

All of your DC conductors are red and black ?
Strongly suggest you get the ABYC colour coding chart.

All your AC wires are red & black ?
What about white and green ? You most definetly need a colour code chart. If you are correct this is a potentially serious issue.

 

[rwidman]

Im not seeing that FF...each leg supplies a different 50 amp panel....with jumpers to a 3rd 250V panel if needed.

So please explain why it's not 100 amps versus only 60 with 2-30's?

What appliances do you have on your boat that need 100 amps of shore power? What do you use when anchored away from shore power?

 

[HopCar]

I've used Blue Sea System's Panel Wizard to design a couple of panels for a customer. It works really well and they provide you with an image of the panel as it will look before you place the order.
You can probably negociate a better price if you place the order through a dealer rather than direct from Blue Sea.
Here's a link to their Panel Wizard: Panel Wizard by Blue Sea Systems

 

[caltexflanc]

While the question was not addressed to me, I have two 50/240 shore power inlets and a 20 kw generator. I could have all three in use at the same time but never have. 6 air con units, though seldom are more than three are on at a time. An electric dryer, a full sized dishwasher, full size four burner electric range and full sized oven, 30 gallon water heater, a microwave, a Sub Zero side-by-side refrigerator, a wine cooler and a freestanding ice maker. Amongst other things.

There are three 240v sub panels on the boat which typically have a mix of 240 and 120 loads. At the home dock, we put the zircon panel, which has a few other items, on one of the two shore power cords, and the other two on another. Back when we were following the temperate weather around, we could use one 50 amp cord if we didn't have the oven, stove, dishwasher and laundry dryer going.

 

[FF]

So please explain why it's not 100 amps versus only 60 with 2-30's?

Wire size. The 240 50A a leg will usually have #6 wires to conduct

The 120V 30A will probably only have #10.

The dock 30A socket can ONLY supply 30A , even if the wiring to the boat was #4.

Visit any marina in the spring and see the burnt and blackened 30 power plugs after an owner tried to heat with electric.

 

[psneeld]

So please explain why it's not 100 amps versus only 60 with 2-30's?

Wire size. The 240 50A a leg will usually have #6 wires to conduct

The 120V 30A will probably only have #10.

The dock 30A socket can ONLY supply 30A , even if the wiring to the boat was #4.

Visit any marina in the spring and see the burnt and blackened 30 power plugs after an owner tried to heat with electric.

I know all that...but my question is still why wouldn't you GO 124/250 50 amp and use 50 amp where available . If where you only have 30 amp...you are no worse off than if you ony had 30 amp shore power to begin with?

Sure setting the boat up that way means you HOPE to usually find 50 amp dock service...but when you do have the 50 amp 125/250....you can set your boat up like a 100 amp house service and not worry as much about load shedding.

Again for casual cruisers no big deal but 24/7/365...leaving stuff plugged in and just turning it on without running to the control panel is nice...and not worrying abut guests who can't ever seem to get electrics.