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Old 07-13-2019, 11:25 PM   #61
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I've created a monster!

I'm actually glad this topic came up. I've got a Sunwaywan V60C light that hasn't worked in a while. It's a pretty bitchin' light, but I need a new charger for it, and I should replace the batteries too. Thanks for the reminder! I'd feel fairly confident in a contest with it, and would be prepared to stake some IPAs on it.
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Old 07-14-2019, 05:07 AM   #62
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Is that the Bigblue? Looks sweet
My weapon of choice is from Light Monkey.

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Old 07-14-2019, 05:10 AM   #63
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You're on if I can get there, OCD. What are the dates?
No idea what the dates are. I just show up and bring the beer.

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Old 07-14-2019, 08:47 AM   #64
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Burnt up alternator leads to flashlight wars.
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Old 07-14-2019, 10:03 AM   #65
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OK, you're on, Walter! Next time I'm in San Diego, we'll have a flashlight duel.

(Reminder: I like IPA!)
Since we are now being specific as to what kind of drinks we want, make mine Glenlivet or Glenfiddich.
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Old 07-15-2019, 07:43 PM   #66
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I heartily second Ghost's recommendation for having a belt which can run the coolant circ pump without the alternator "in the loop." So let's go over the warnings of a smoke/fire situation available for our ERs. I like the idea of a smoke detector in the ER. On my trawler where I could actually hear it, I took the siren out of a home style smoke alarm and added extension wires to get it out of the ER and to within hearing range. I wished there was a more rugged "marine" grade unit available with this capability worked into the product. I also had an ER camera as well as auto-fire suppression with alarms at both helms. It is always amazing to me when I find a boat with a Halon bottle in the ER and no alarm connected. Another thing that is available which I want to add to this boat is a radiant heat detector like we had in many compartments in the Navy, but I have not located a suitable one yet.
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Old 07-15-2019, 07:56 PM   #67
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Here's a heat detector I found on Fisheries Supply, but it seems a little low on the temperature limit. https://tinyurl.com/y63xoum4 It is rather inexpensive to my way of thinking.
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Old 07-15-2019, 09:00 PM   #68
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Without an alternator/tensioner, the theoretical 2-pulley belt would be useless. How would you tighten it?
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Old 07-15-2019, 09:20 PM   #69
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The adjustable length emergency belts would easily grip the centrifugal coolant pump pulley to spin it. Remember, there is very little resistance to rolling there.
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Old 07-15-2019, 09:25 PM   #70
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The flashlight thing I knew about. Probably back from the days of wondering if it was possible to get a decent retrofit LED for a Mag-Lite. Which there wasn't at the time, and then the market exploded with the influx of cheap LED flashlights, pretty much relegating the Mag-Lites to the bin.
You can replace the lamp module on a maglight with a regulated LED module and have a solid and bright, long lasting maglite...
Of course, my favorite is a TX3R Pro EagleTac light from Illumination gear dot com
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Old 07-16-2019, 01:20 AM   #71
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FlyWright: As a new(er) boater, thanks for posting this crucial thread as an educational piece on how to handle a potential engine room fire. I learned more practical tips from this thread than just about any other TF thread (and that is saying a lot !)


On the flybridge, maybe you can use an iPad to see your ER camera via WiFi. I will look into this and see how it might be configured. I usually carry an iPad on the flybridge for navigation. It will slave the Garmin display plus carry its own nav apps. There is probably a way to monitor the ER camera as well.



Many thanks
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Old 07-16-2019, 08:58 AM   #72
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Thanks for the kind words, Cheech. I hope it helps many to consider and plan for the possibilities in advance of an emergency.

That would work on the FB but my boat is set up with the lower helm as the primary helm. It would also be important to have the aural horns and warnings sound on the FB. My lower helm has all my electronics; AP, multiple GPS/FF/Radar displays, protection from the elements and easy access to the galley and head while underway. It's my preferred driving position.

My FB serves primarily as storage. I affectionately refer to my FB as my attic with a $1,000,000 view.
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Old 07-16-2019, 09:00 AM   #73
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You can replace the lamp module on a maglight with a regulated LED module and have a solid and bright, long lasting maglite...
Of course, my favorite is a TX3R Pro EagleTac light from Illumination gear dot com
I would strongly encourage anyone who wants to take me up on my sincere challenge buy this off the shelf mod for the competition.

Also, don't forget to buy plenty of IPA for the victor.
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Old 07-16-2019, 09:10 AM   #74
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Without an alternator/tensioner, the theoretical 2-pulley belt would be useless. How would you tighten it?
The main belt could run the alternator, and then add a tensioner to the front of the block for the water pump.
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Old 07-16-2019, 09:32 AM   #75
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One other observation re: the ER smoke event...

As important as it was to immediately shut down the engines after the smoke appeared, it was JUST AS IMPORTANT to immediately be able to switch off ALL ELECTRICAL supply circuits.

Years ago I redesigned my boat to split the supply side from the load side so I could maintain full control of either or each in an emergency. I also relocated the Perko switches to an easy-to-reach location OUTSIDE the ER door at my steps. This proved important in this event when isolating the electrical power. It took about 5 seconds to shut down both engines and switch off all 12V and 110V (inverter/genset) power. I did not have to go into the smoke-filled ER to shut down the electrical power. (Of course, don't shut down the electrical power to your fire extinguishing or sensing systems. Ideally, they would be powered even if electricals are isolated.)

A fire onboard is my greatest concern....worse than a hole in the hull, IMO. When you consider all the steps needed in a very short period of time during an event like this, it's best to plan ahead and have all your ducks in a row before the first alarm sounds.

Fortunately for me, I was alone and did not need to worry about other crew or pax during the emergency. It prevented me from having to explain to or reassure others in the 'heat of the moment'. Having others aboard (with their emotional responses) always seems to make it tougher, IMO.
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Old 07-16-2019, 09:49 PM   #76
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There are many companies on line that sell alternator and starter parts. If it is just a bearing failure you can buy those online at grainger or McMaster Carr. There will be numbers on the bearings for ID. Might want to get a spare set of brushes too.
If the bearing did seize it is possible that it damaged the aluminum frame so check fitment first.
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Old 07-16-2019, 09:51 PM   #77
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Thanks, Baja. A local alternator shop is looking at it. I will defer to the pros on this one.
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Old 07-16-2019, 10:27 PM   #78
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No problem, this happens to be an industry that I was in during my youth. I managed and owned a rebuilding shop for many years. Mostly automotive but did some marine and truck too.
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Old 07-18-2019, 03:11 PM   #79
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OC, according to various websites, Leece Neville used to or is still manufacturing alternators for Balmar. I am a bit confused as I was contemplating getting a new Balmar charging kit for my boat. Can you elaborate? Thanks, Dirk
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