Shore Power Cords

[djk1216]

Just bought a new boat and wanted to find out if anyone has any experience with Furrion shore power cords. They look OK and are a lot less expensive than Marinco. I need to buy a 50' 50 A for the bow, and also for use in case I every need 2 x 50 A at the stern.

Also, has anyone found the need for a reverse Y (2 x 30A feed into a 50A), or is 50 A available everywhere?

The reason I ask is that the marina near me in the NE only has 30 A at the dock, and my boat only has 50A inputs. Not sure if this situation is common or only because the marina here only caters to smaller boats.

 

[O C Diver]

2 x 30A feed into a 50A has a brain box and is usually north of $400. There is an adapter (<$100) that will allow you to plug into 1 x 30 amp plug and feed both legs of your 50 amp service with 30 amps total. I'm using one now. Just need to be good at load shedding.

Ted

 

[hmason]

I have 50 AMP Furrion power cords and they are fine. The only issue I have ever had with them is the LED lights on the plug ends never last more than a month or two. When they failed on my first cord I called them and they sent me a new cord at no charge and told me to keep the old one. When the lights failed on the second one I called again to let them know something was going on with their LED's. They insisted on sending me another new cord. I have never used the 3rd cord and I'm keeping it as a spare. You can't beat the price or the customer service.

We liveaboard and do a lot of cruising. I have a reverse Y and I think I used 3 times in the last 10 years. Many marinas have them to loan to you if you don't have your own. 50 AMP power has become common in most marinas on the east coast.

 

[Bay Pelican]

If you cruise you will run into a number of marinas or slips where only 30 amp is available. Suggest you bite the bullet and get 1) reverse Y, 2) 30 amp shore power to 50 amp boat adapter, and 3) 30 amp cord to feed from a second post to your reverse Y.

You can of course do without any or all of these. Just a matter of how flexible you are when you pull in and find you need one.

 

[dhays]

Do you have 50A/120 or 50A/240?

 

[what_barnacles]

I bought one of these. 50' 125/250 @ 50 amp for $300

50A 125/250V Marine Shore Power Boat Cord 50' Yellow 50 amp 125/250 volt NEW | eBay

 

[psneeld]

My Furion is 3 yrs old and so far has been just as good as the expensive ones.

Agree with OCDiver, their 30 to 50 adapter works great. A typical solitter wont work unless you have 2 30 outlets that are capable of 250V due to being wired from different hot legs.

 

[Bay Pelican]

Agree with OCDiver, their 30 to 50 adapter works great. A typical solitter wont work unless you have 2 30 outlets that are capable of 250V due to being wired from different hot legs.

This is the reason for carrying a 30 amp cord. You can then find a another power post with the proper 30 amp outlet to allow your smart Y to work.

 

[DHeckrotte]

With respect to marina power posts equipped with only 30 amp receptacles, and the comment above about adjacent posts powered from the same leg of a 220v main panel:

Surely, whoever wired that dock would have run feeds from both legs of the main panel. The problem becomes one of identifying posts which are wired from different legs and, if necessary, begging adjacent boat owners to trade use of the posts. A 30 amp receptacle will have three conductors: 110v, neutral, and ground; a 50 amp receptacle will have three conductors: +110v, -110v, and ground. Determining whether the 30 amp receptacles are on the same or different legs of the main panel can be done by measuring the potential between the hot conductors; it will be either 0v +/- or 220v +/-. Poking around the receptacle should not be dangerous with adequate care. Determining the hot conductor can be done by comparing the potential between the conductors. I doubt you'd trip the main panel's GFIs with your voltmeter...but, maybe.

If I've said something stupid or wrong, don't let it slide!

 

[DavidM]

Do you have 50A/120 or 50A/240?

50A/120V is rare. I haven't seen it at a marina. And the vast majority of our size boats that have more than 30A/120V supply are wired to use 50A/240V. It provides double the wattage of the 50A/120V supply.

David

 

[Seevee]

2 x 30A feed into a 50A has a brain box and is usually north of $400. There is an adapter (<$100) that will allow you to plug into 1 x 30 amp plug and feed both legs of your 50 amp service with 30 amps total. I'm using one now. Just need to be good at load shedding.

Ted

O C,

Tell me about that adapter. Seems like you'd have to monitor power carefully.
Now, if you plugged one leg of a reverse Y into a 30 amp supply, you'd get half of the power in the boat, i.e. one leg of the 50a, is that correct? So, if one used that, they could just pick the leg that would give them what they wanted.

I'd like to run the AC on dehumidify and the charger with that setup.

But your adapter has me thinking... do you have a part number?

 

[dhays]

50A/120V is rare. I haven't seen it at a marina. And the vast majority of our size boats that have more than 30A/120V supply are wired to use 50A/240V. It provides double the wattage of the 50A/120V supply.

David

I agree. However my marina has 50A/120v power pedestals and my boat has a 50A/120v service. This wasn't planned btw, just a fortuitous accident. My sailboat needed a 50A to 30A adaptor at this slip and my boat needs the same when away from our home dock as most transient marinas that I visit have 30A service.

Before I bought a 50A/125V power cord, I was using a 30A cord with an adaptor at either end.

 

[psneeld]

O C,

Tell me about that adapter. Seems like you'd have to monitor power carefully.
Now, if you plugged one leg of a reverse Y into a 30 amp supply, you'd get half of the power in the boat, i.e. one leg of the 50a, is that correct? So, if one used that, they could just pick the leg that would give them what they wanted.

I'd like to run the AC on dehumidify and the charger with that setup.

But your adapter has me thinking... do you have a part number?

Some y cords will not work with only one side plugged in or both if the 2 30A receptacles arent 220 volts aoart due to phase...yes I know some would argue the ohase semantics.

As to having a 30 amp cord to extend to a good receotacle...great if you can find one...some marinas are pretty rough electrically.

The 30 to 50 OCDiver and I have is nice in those situations.

 

[john61ct]

Please for a noob, could people please post links to examples of the various units being discussed here?

Ideally specific ones known to be good value, but otherwise just references with pics, specs that explain what is what?

 

[Seevee]

Some y cords will not work with only one side plugged in or both if the 2 30A receptacles arent 220 volts aoart due to phase...yes I know some would argue the ohase semantics.

As to having a 30 amp cord to extend to a good receotacle...great if you can find one...some marinas are pretty rough electrically.

The 30 to 50 OCDiver and I have is nice in those situations.

I've got 30 amp behind my house. Until I get a 50 installed for the new boat, I'd like to plug in occasionally, and looking for the best solution. I've got the reverse Y, but won't work. But your 30 to 50amp adapter sounds pretty good. Do you have a PN or manufacturer?

 

[O C Diver]

o c,

tell me about that adapter. Seems like you'd have to monitor power carefully.
Now, if you plugged one leg of a reverse y into a 30 amp supply, you'd get half of the power in the boat, i.e. One leg of the 50a, is that correct? So, if one used that, they could just pick the leg that would give them what they wanted.

I'd like to run the ac on dehumidify and the charger with that setup.

But your adapter has me thinking... Do you have a part number?

Here are 3 of the most common adapters to use on a standard 50 amp 250 volt shore power cord.

The top one plugs into a standard house outlet (125 volt 15 amp). It ties the 2 hot conductors in your shore power cord together and gives you a total of 15 amps at 125 volts. Don't use this adapter if you have any 220 circuits in your boat panel! These might be a stove, air conditioning, water heater or clothes drier. While not a hard and fast rule, most boats under 50' that have the 50 amp 250 volt shore power cord, don't have any 220 volt circuits. I use this cord when I'm in the boat yard or on a friend's dock to maintain the battery bank, refrigerator, and maybe one air conditioner.

The middle adapter is the same as the top one only it has a 30 amp plug. I can live comfortably on this one if little or no heat or air conditioning is required. Don't try to run an electric stove, water heater and air conditioning at the same time. Same limitations for 220 volt circuits apply.

The bottom one takes two 30 amp plugs and gives you 30 amps on the 2 positive conductors in your shore power cord. It will also work with 220 volt circuits on your boat. It has a monitoring circuit and disconnects inside the junction box. The disconnects don't close until you have 220 volts from the two 30 amp plugs combined. This requires that the two 30 amp plugs be on different phases and the voltage is higher that 215 volts +/-. Sometimes you will come across two 30 amp receptacles on a power pedestal on the same phase, so it won't work. Sometimes you will be on a dock with a 208 volt tranformer, so it won't work. Sometimes you will be at the far end of a long dock on a hot or cold day when lots of heaters or air conditioners are running, dragging the voltage down below 215 volts, so it won't work.

The frustrating part is that your boat may work fine on 208 volts from the pedestal outlet (mine does), but this adapter won't let you use the two 30 amp outlets on the same pedestal that combine to 208 volts.

Marinco part numbers:

Top: 150SPP
Middle: 117A or 111A
Bottom: RY504-2-30

Ted

 

[Bay Pelican]

://www.westmarine.com/buy/marinco--eel-y-adapter-50a-125-250v-male-to-50a-125-250v-females--12998456?recordNum=43



If the link doesn't work just Google the adapter:


What you are looking for is two 30 amp male, to 50 amp female, smart Y, and a 30 amp male to 50 amp female.

 

[Seevee]

://www.westmarine.com/buy/marinco--eel-y-adapter-50a-125-250v-male-to-50a-125-250v-females--12998456?recordNum=43



If the link doesn't work just Google the adapter:


What you are looking for is two 30 amp male, to 50 amp female, smart Y, and a 30 amp male to 50 amp female.

I've got a reverse Y plug, which will work if the two 30s phase is correct. But I have a single 30 amp at my dock, so just need a plug for 30 to 50.

I don't believe I have any 220v appliances on board but not positive. There are two legs that are supplied, 110 each, and if there were a 220 appliance wouldn't it have to draw from both legs?

I get a bit confused once I get over 110v, and a few beers.

 

[O C Diver]

I've got a reverse Y plug, which will work if the two 30s phase is correct. But I have a single 30 amp at my dock, so just need a plug for 30 to 50.

I don't believe I have any 220v appliances on board but not positive. There are two legs that are supplied, 110 each, and if there were a 220 appliance wouldn't it have to draw from both legs?

I get a bit confused once I get over 110v, and a few beers.

Yes, a 220 circuit draws from both legs and has a double pole breaker.

You want the middle adapter in post #16.

Ted

 

[Bay Pelican]

Power management. Don't know your boat, but a boat equipped with a 50 amp shore power inlet could have several appliances that draw significant power loads. 30 amps (120v) will max out at 3600 watts. 50 amp 240v will max out at almost 10,000 watts 120v. Water heater 1,500 watts, hair dryer 1,500, AC unit 1,500. Add in refrigeration, battery charger, cooking etc it is possible to max out the 30 amp shorepower unless you are aware of the need to manage the usage.

 

[mbevins]

Management of loads is always a juggling act on any but the largest boats.
My wife can still manage to pop a main on our 50amp 240v system.

 

[CaptTom]

Management of loads is always a juggling act on any but the largest boats.
My wife can still manage to pop a main on our 50amp 240v system.

I guess there's just a lot of variability in what people consider "roughing it."

I'm not averse to being comfortable, but I also take some comfort from understanding my power needs. It's no inconvenience to have to consider my power usage before turning something on. It's part of the self-sufficiency that makes boating so rewarding.

If you get enjoyment out of knowing you never have to think about your power demand, then by all means, rig your boat up accordingly.

In fact, you may be in the majority there. It's rare to find a boat owner who truly understands their electrical system, be it the DC or AC side. I'm always amazed at some of the really bizarre systems I've encountered. I could write a book on what was wrong with the last two used trawlers I helped deliver. And those were some of the better ones I've seen.

I think, in general, the folks on this forum are miles ahead of the "average" boat owner in this regard. Maybe that's why we get into these detailed discussions. But these discussions are how we all learn.

 

[dhays]

With a 50A/120V system, we periodically will pop the breaker. Usually it is because I haven't communicated well enough with my wife as to what is currently running. If I have flipped on the hot water tank, have the stereo system running, a couple of electric heaters, battery charger keeping up with all the 12v loads, I need to tell her that she probably also can't run the micro-wave, toaster, or Keurig without shutting down something else.

 

[Bay Pelican]

I have a hertz meter which measures the output of my 8 kw generator (about 40 amps) and with a couple of chargers starting up, the refrigeration running and the water heater all on, the output of the generator in terms of hertz drops from 60.5 to 57.5. Clearly at this stage we exercise power management and do not turn on another other large load without turning something off. Since this is only a 10 minute bubble in usuage it is not a problem for us but is shows how easily you can load a system.