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Old 12-09-2020, 05:42 AM   #1
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Shaft brush for grounding- sources?

the head broke off the strap of the Promariner brush on the 2” prop shaft.

so far, all parts companies that have listed them in the past are “out of stock”.
one source stated that Promariner was sold, and current company Apparently not manufacturing them.

anyone use a different replacement?

Thanks in advance.
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Old 12-09-2020, 07:43 AM   #2
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I asked a similar question a few months ago. I went with one from ElectroGard.

https://www.suremarineservice.com/El...art/SB-6B.html

Good luck - Peter
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Old 12-09-2020, 08:03 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mvweebles View Post
I asked a similar question a few months ago. I went with one from ElectroGard.

https://www.suremarineservice.com/El...art/SB-6B.html

Good luck - Peter
Does anyone else have shaft grounding devices?
I had two zincs on each shaft and the Stb zincs would be totally gone in 12 months. My boat yard put three on that side and they now make it 12 months. Would a shaft wiper help.
I haven't done any homework on bonding and zincs.
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Old 12-09-2020, 08:19 AM   #4
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Geez, that sounds excessive. Our shafts are very long,14 feet. Two aluminum anodes last a year although I usually have them changed every nine months. Our double thick transom diver's dream goes 18 months. Is your boat equipped with a galvanic isolator? It is possible that a boat neighbor is eating your anodes.
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Does anyone else have shaft grounding devices?
I had two zincs on each shaft and the Stb zincs would be totally gone in 12 months. My boat yard put three on that side and they now make it 12 months. Would a shaft wiper help.
I haven't done any homework on bonding and zincs.
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Old 12-09-2020, 08:45 AM   #5
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I do have galvanic isolators but know little about that side of the system. I need to learn how it works and if it is installed right.Click image for larger version

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Old 12-09-2020, 09:45 AM   #6
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You can get a starter brush from a alternator/starter shop and attach it to your spring plate, solder pigtail to your bonding lead.
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Old 12-09-2020, 10:46 AM   #7
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With a shaft brush, you can include your shaft and prop into the rest of the bonding/anode system. Without a shaft brush, a connection to the main ground through the engine and transmission is unreliable. Anodes placed on the shaft "fix" this problem.


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Old 12-09-2020, 10:48 AM   #8
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If you run across a piece of bronze or copper pipe in the 1" ID range, you can cut a one-inch length of it lengthwise to make an adequate "brush."
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Old 12-09-2020, 02:31 PM   #9
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If you can't find a proper grounding brush, use a braided copper ground strap draped over the shaft with a weight at the bottom to assure good contact with the shaft surface.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7NP6KH
or buy a roll of bulk woven copper grounding strap and solder one end for the terminal, and put a fishing weight on the other and lay it over the prop shaft.
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Old 12-09-2020, 03:08 PM   #10
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I use a copper brush, looks like a paint brush. I can usually find one at an industrial supply. Copper doesn't seem to wear the shaft.
Maybe now on Amazon or ebay.
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Old 12-09-2020, 05:01 PM   #11
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Drilling the end piece to reattach to the spring would work.
They are often just starter brushes brazed onto springy arms. I welding shop might braze it for you.
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Old 12-09-2020, 05:39 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stubones99 View Post
a roll of bulk woven copper grounding strap
I was tracing my bonding circuit the other day and saw that my shaft brush was okay but the wire that connected to the original woven copper grounding strap had come loose. Tracing the grounding strap about a foot I saw that it was completely broken as it went aft to my 2 "Diver's Dream" zincs on the stern. In fact, I found another break in the grounding strap in the lazarette. No wonder my zincs last so long.

In getting ready to fix it, I'm wondering "why woven copper for a grounding strap?" Mine is all green and crusty and I wouldn't trust a connection even if it were possible to mend. Why not insulated tinned copper wire? My original connections are just crimp ring connectors with a SS screw through the strap. Quick and cheap, but it seems like there could be a better way. Maybe 6 gauge solid copper grounding wire ($35 for 50') with the branch wires soldered to it?
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Old 12-10-2020, 12:02 PM   #13
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@Marco Flamingo #12

ABYC E-2, Cathodic Protection specifically prohibits braid in the cathodic protection system. Self tapping screws are also prohibited.

I recommend installing a common bus at each cluster of underwater metal components and connect these busses with AWG 8 green, tinned boat cable. Make the connections to the busses with adhesive lined, heat shrink ring terminals. At each bus, make whips from the bus to the individual underwater metal component. Do not daisy chain. Connect the individual whip to the component with an adhesive lined, heat shrink ring terminal. Spray the connection with CRC HD Corrosion Protection or equivalent. Note: Each connection to the bonding system should have a resistance < 1.0 ohm.
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Old 12-10-2020, 07:26 PM   #14
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@Marco Flamingo #12

ABYC E-2, Cathodic Protection specifically prohibits braid in the cathodic protection system. Self tapping screws are also prohibited.

I recommend installing a common bus at each cluster of underwater metal components and connect these busses with AWG 8 green, tinned boat cable. Make the connections to the busses with adhesive lined, heat shrink ring terminals. At each bus, make whips from the bus to the individual underwater metal component. Do not daisy chain. Connect the individual whip to the component with an adhesive lined, heat shrink ring terminal. Spray the connection with CRC HD Corrosion Protection or equivalent. Note: Each connection to the bonding system should have a resistance < 1.0 ohm.
Does it prohibit braided copper or braided tinned copper?

Copper Braid is nice when you have frequent movement since the strands are hairlike and take a while to work harden and fatigue. I assume the reason they prohibit braid is that it could de-zinc-ify with salt water and electricity, leaving a poor ground. I would say that using a braid as a shaft ground wouldn't be a bad idea, since it is unlikely to damage the shaft and is out of any bilge water so should last quite a while.
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Old 12-10-2020, 07:33 PM   #15
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I don't like those connections on the bottom isolator. At the least, they be be loosened and straightened out to relive the strain at the ring connectors. Better yet, new heat-shrink connectors should be installed to eliminate the exposed wire which invites corrosion.
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I do have galvanic isolators but know little about that side of the system. I need to learn how it works and if it is installed right.Attachment 111099
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Old 12-10-2020, 07:40 PM   #16
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I don't like those connections on the bottom isolator. At the least, they be be loosened and straightened out to relive the strain at the ring connectors. Better yet, new heat-shrink connectors should be installed to eliminate the exposed wire which invites corrosion.
I agree John. Those lugs are poor. I wish I had a critical eye for that stuff. Good thing is, that isolator has been there for 15 years and is in a very dry clean area.
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Old 12-11-2020, 09:19 AM   #17
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@stubones99 #14

The prohibition is against braid-no differentiation between tinned or untuned.
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Old 03-08-2021, 03:36 PM   #18
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I fabricated this setup. Looking for a critique. I wrapped copper braid around the end. It is about 6 layers. I measured for continuity and resistance to the ships bonding strip and it is very good. Click image for larger version

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Old 03-08-2021, 05:35 PM   #19
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It looks good. To be effective, the resistance should be as close to 1 ohm (or below) as possible. Unfortunately, with untinned braid it will corrode quickly *all through the braid*. After the corrosion starts, the resistance will start to rise.

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Old 03-08-2021, 05:51 PM   #20
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It looks good. To be effective, the resistance should be as close to 1 ohm (or below) as possible. Unfortunately, with untinned braid it will corrode quickly *all through the braid*. After the corrosion starts, the resistance will start to rise.

Ken
Thanks, I will follow up after several months with readings and pics.
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