Rewiring Grand Banks 36
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If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Tomas
Senior Member
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- Dec 3, 2010
- Messages
- 207
I rewired a Cheoy Lee 40LRC, although not completely. I reused most of the original DC wiring, replaced all of the AC wiring and added quite a few new AC and DC circuits. Originally, there were 12 DC circuits and 5 AC circuits. The original DC wire was 10 gauge and in surprisingly good condition. The AC wiring was a mess, undersized with some owner added circuits using Romex.
I started with a new 24 breaker DC and 12 breaker AC panel from Paneltronics and worked form there out. Prewired the new breaker panel at home, so just had to connect the circuits to the appropriate numbered terminal on the preinstalled terminal strips. For new wire, I used the next heavier gauge than 3% drop called for. Don't remember the time involved, counting just labor time, probably not more than 3 or 4 days (old man days, rarely 8 hours anymore) to pull old wire and install new wire.
I started with a new 24 breaker DC and 12 breaker AC panel from Paneltronics and worked form there out. Prewired the new breaker panel at home, so just had to connect the circuits to the appropriate numbered terminal on the preinstalled terminal strips. For new wire, I used the next heavier gauge than 3% drop called for. Don't remember the time involved, counting just labor time, probably not more than 3 or 4 days (old man days, rarely 8 hours anymore) to pull old wire and install new wire.
FF
Guru
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- Oct 12, 2007
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Not hard work , but a bit tedious.
Best on wiring is to be oversized not just Ok.
Purchase in 300-500ft rolls and be sure to use marine not auto terminals and a great crimp tool.
Anchor brand wire is 1srt choice .
And can be found in quantity.
The big decision is weather to copy exisiong or modernize the systems.
Same for wire color code Euro colors will probably replace USA red & black.
Install tinned star washers on any DC post.
Best on wiring is to be oversized not just Ok.
Purchase in 300-500ft rolls and be sure to use marine not auto terminals and a great crimp tool.
Anchor brand wire is 1srt choice .
And can be found in quantity.
The big decision is weather to copy exisiong or modernize the systems.
Same for wire color code Euro colors will probably replace USA red & black.
Install tinned star washers on any DC post.
Capt.Bill11
Guru
Again, define "completely ".
All new AC & DC wires, breakers, breaker panels, outlets, switches, new lights, new battery cables, chargers, etc., etc.?
Giggitoni
Guru
- Joined
- Jun 21, 2008
- Messages
- 2,092
- Location
- United States
- Vessel Name
- Mahalo Moi
- Vessel Make
- 1986 Grand Banks 42 Classic
You'll get all kinds of answers and suggestions here. I urge you to pose your question on www.brandbanksowners.com to get answers and suggestions from folks that have actually rewired a GB 36. Good luck!
AusCan
Guru
- Joined
- Jul 15, 2012
- Messages
- 3,218
- Location
- Australia
- Vessel Name
- Kokanee
- Vessel Make
- Cuddles 30 Pilot House Motor Sailer
I am in the final stages of upgrading my wiring. 80% has been replaced, although I left some of the original hard to get smaller runs through the cabinetry.
It's a simple boat electrically, but has taken much longer than expected. Probably well over 100 hours so far, but would have been less with better planning.
I read on another forum about a guy who rewired a 38 foot boat. The owner stripped out all the old, and did a lot of the new cable pulling and manual labour himself. He put in 140 hours, and a marine electrician put in another 120 hours. That's 260 hours in total.
I'd suggest that before you start - map it all out on paper. Everything. A list of every cable with wire size, length, colour, termination points, lug type and size, maximum current, cable run path.
Map out the position of all termination blocks, fuses, switches. List of stud sizes, bulkhead thru-hole sizes required, a cable labelling plan.
Its much easier & quicker if you do it on paper first, rather than planning as you go.
It's a simple boat electrically, but has taken much longer than expected. Probably well over 100 hours so far, but would have been less with better planning.
I read on another forum about a guy who rewired a 38 foot boat. The owner stripped out all the old, and did a lot of the new cable pulling and manual labour himself. He put in 140 hours, and a marine electrician put in another 120 hours. That's 260 hours in total.
I'd suggest that before you start - map it all out on paper. Everything. A list of every cable with wire size, length, colour, termination points, lug type and size, maximum current, cable run path.
Map out the position of all termination blocks, fuses, switches. List of stud sizes, bulkhead thru-hole sizes required, a cable labelling plan.
Its much easier & quicker if you do it on paper first, rather than planning as you go.
dhmeissner
Guru
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2012
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- 1,569
- Location
- North America
- Vessel Name
- The Promise
- Vessel Make
- Roughwater 35
I re-wired most of the DC & AC, including new batteries, charger/inverter. New Paneltronics AC/DC panel, new bilge pumps, new VHF, added fish finder to the CP500. Masterflush head. I'm still working on the LED lighting. I'd have to add all the receipts, but so far I'm around $5k in hardware. There was some woodworking as I relocated stuff in the engine space. I still want to add solar, since I don't want a noismaker.
AusCan
<snip>
Its much easier & quicker if you do it on paper first, rather than planning as you go..
<\snip>
Amen brother
AusCan
<snip>
Its much easier & quicker if you do it on paper first, rather than planning as you go..
<\snip>
Amen brother
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psneeld
Guru
yes...probably $5K in materials...just the upgrade to a 50A 125/250V panel and matching DC panel were almost $2500 from Paneltronics.
very hard work in my opinion as pulling the wires in some spots and fastening to meet or nearly meet ABYC requirements was backbreaking in some areas and body positions.
easily a many month or two...could cut that in half if you had a helper and had most of the stuff on hand prior to needing it.
there are many ways to do it...that was just my way.
very hard work in my opinion as pulling the wires in some spots and fastening to meet or nearly meet ABYC requirements was backbreaking in some areas and body positions.
easily a many month or two...could cut that in half if you had a helper and had most of the stuff on hand prior to needing it.
there are many ways to do it...that was just my way.
twistedtree
Guru
That 260 hrs, and the going rate of $100/hr or a skilled tech, is a whopping $26,000. Not so bad if you are doing it yourself, but I agree it will be a long and involved project, mostly because of access challenges. For someone to do it in 3-4 old-man-days (I love that term, by the way) seems nothing short of a miracle. Must have been a very straight forward boat with good access. I expect the work goes up exponentially with boat size, so maybe I'm over estimating what's needed for a GB 36. I'm envisioning my old GB47 and thinking "huge job". As others have asked, I assume you have good reasons for doing a full re-wire.
Capt.Bill11
Guru
What he said. ^
OreWa
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2014
- Messages
- 43
- Location
- USA
- Vessel Name
- Zara / Journey
- Vessel Make
- 1971 Grand Banks 36CL / 1980 Roughwater 41
I'm in the process of rewiring my '71 GB 36 now. It is a slow and tedious process but progressing nicely. By 'rewiring' I mean that I'm doing the majority of it. I see no need to tear out headliners etc to replace perfectly good wire, especially when all the fixtures are being upgraded to LED. Everything in the bilge is getting replaced along with a new main and sub-panels by Blue Sea Systems. The DC circuits aren't all that bad but the AC is/was hideous. Romex, wire nuts, etc. Again, a new panel and all new wire for the AC. Make sure that everything is marine grade and I'd suggest staying with one manufacturer for everything. I'm using Ancor wire, lugs, terminals and Ancor crimpers. That way everything is designed to work together. Don't forget to use adhesive heat shrink on all the ends. It's been kinda fun in a masochistic sort of way but I have the luxury of having the boat in a boathouse and being able to work on it at my leisure. One more thing......label everyting....at both ends and even in the middle if you have access. I haven't totaled the cost yet but am guessing that it's around $3k and I'm pretty much done buying everything (famous last words). Good luck with your project. BTW, you might want to invest in Nigel Calder's book on electrical and mechanical if you don't already have a copy on board.
Stan
Stan
FF
Guru
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- Oct 12, 2007
- Messages
- 22,552
ON the AC side , plan on a 240V 50A input , no downside besides a heavy power hose , and you may need the juice eventually.
That would be my question as well. Wire does not wear out.
Adapters work fine.
They won't be changing the pedestals to 50 amp unless they change the wiring to the pedestal.
mbevins
Guru
I think that's what I just said.
psneeld
Guru
You don't have to plug into 50 if you have a relatively cheap adapter. When I only need 30 amps service to keep the batteries charged and a few minor circuits (no heat or cool)...I just ask for a 30 amp.
But if I need it, the amps are there....plus...the 50A plugs are far more secure and less prone to burning or shorting.
FF
Guru
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- Oct 12, 2007
- Messages
- 22,552
Cruising with a 240V 50A system simple plug adapters can allow a 120V 15A service to be used.
Of course you have to control the juice being used,
OR have a pass thru inverter and big batt bank, (expensive but might be on board)
OR have a simple load automatic shedding system .
EG when the AC refrigerator turns on the HW heater is turned off.
Of course you have to control the juice being used,
OR have a pass thru inverter and big batt bank, (expensive but might be on board)
OR have a simple load automatic shedding system .
EG when the AC refrigerator turns on the HW heater is turned off.
