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04-14-2016, 10:18 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
City: Long Beach
Vessel Model: '81 CHB34
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 107
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Replacement solenoid for windlass
Need a replacement for a up only ideal windlass. I don't know the motor specs, but I have 100' of BBB chain, 34' boat. I've found marine "windlass" solenoids for over $100. But then there are winch and diesel truck starter solenoid options for around $10. And suggestions on a non marine $$ option?
Thanks in advance.
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04-14-2016, 10:27 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
City: Long Beach
Vessel Model: '81 CHB34
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 107
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04-15-2016, 04:51 AM
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#3
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Guru
City: Ft Pierce
Vessel Name: Sold
Vessel Model: Was an Albin/PSN 40
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 28,119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winty
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I used one like that for 2 years till I went ahead and bought a reversing capable solenoid as my winless was designed for either.
Just mount it in a dry location or a box. Best if it isn't body grounded, find one with an insulated ground.
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04-15-2016, 05:39 AM
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#4
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Guru
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 22,553
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Solenoids can be paired if you need more Amps.
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04-15-2016, 06:39 AM
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#5
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Guru
City: North Carolina for now
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 6,348
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A picture would help. Call Ideal. They can tell you what you need, and if you like sell you one that is rubber coated. I've used both theirs and standard Cole Hersee solenoids (which I sprayed with Corrosion X after installation).
__________________
George
"There's the Right Way, the Wrong Way, and what some guy says he's gotten away with"
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04-15-2016, 08:32 AM
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#6
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Guru
City: North Charleston, SC
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,869
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FF
Solenoids can be paired if you need more Amps.
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I don't think that's a good idea. One will make contact before the other and for a very short time it will carry all the current. I would expect the contacts to burn and eventually fail. That will leave the other carrying all the current and it could fail by overheating and catching fire.
It should be fairly easy to find the correct solenoid in the first place.
These "solenoids" are often referred to as "contactors". It's really a relay, not a solenoid.
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04-15-2016, 10:58 AM
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#7
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Guru
City: Pender Harbour, BC
Vessel Name: Gwaii Haanas
Vessel Model: Custom Aluminum 52
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 3,791
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Cole Hersey is good, I added a second solenoid to run the Ideal downwards too, rather than releasing the clutch and letting it free fall. The motor is a starter motor off a 56 Chev, or something similar and doesn't need "marine" - just keep them dry. You can look at the breaker that has been used forever in your windlass circuit and spec the solenoid based on that.
__________________
Don't believe everything that you think.
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04-15-2016, 12:18 PM
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#8
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Guru
City: North Charleston, SC
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,869
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The simplest thing to do is replace the defective part with an exact replacement. You know it will work and all the cables and mounting holes will be in the right place.
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04-15-2016, 01:31 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
City: Washington
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 265
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I'd contact Cliffe at Ideal (idealwindlass.com) before pursuing other options. They have most all parts for their products going way back. They had all the parts for my 38 year old windlass. In my case, the model was on the motor. CMW, I believe.
__________________
-- Rusty
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04-15-2016, 01:37 PM
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#10
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Guru
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 5,034
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Quote:
It's really a relay, not a solenoid
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Correct.
I have one of those generic automotive relays aboard in my spare parts inventory...I would use it for the Lehman or windlass if needed.
__________________
Jay Leonard
Ex boats: 1983 40 Albin trunk cabin, 1978 Mainship 34 Model 1
New Port Richey, Fl
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04-15-2016, 02:54 PM
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#11
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Guru
City: Inside Passage Summer/Columbia River Winter
Vessel Name: Alaskan Sea-Duction
Vessel Model: 1988 M/Y Camargue YachtFisher
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 8,046
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On my bow, I had these solenoids that were mechanical, meaning when you pushed on the button, it drove a rod which activated the switch. I replaced them with these from WM.
WEST MARINE Covered Waterproof Foot Switch | West Marine
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04-15-2016, 03:23 PM
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#12
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Guru
City: North Carolina for now
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 6,348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alaskan Sea-Duction
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Those switches carry the entire current? On the boats I've been involved in, the switches activate the solenoid set. I bet yours do too.
__________________
George
"There's the Right Way, the Wrong Way, and what some guy says he's gotten away with"
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04-15-2016, 03:49 PM
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#13
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Guru
City: Windsor
Vessel Name: Keeper IV
Vessel Model: 44 Viking ACMY
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 1,350
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caltexflanc
Those switches carry the entire current? On the boats I've been involved in, the switches activate the solenoid set. I bet yours do too.
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The specs on it say it's rated at 150amps. Personally I'm with you on this. I'm more comfortable feeding a relay/solenoid from the foot switch and letting the relay rated at (150amps + ) take the load. With this switch you're relying on foot pressure to close the contacts. Not a very consistent procedure.
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04-15-2016, 06:08 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
City: Long Beach
Vessel Model: '81 CHB34
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 107
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There is a foot switch which is what triggers the solenoid.
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04-15-2016, 08:23 PM
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#15
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TF Site Team
City: Saltspring Island
Vessel Name: Retreat
Vessel Model: C&L 44
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 5,656
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The ones I had originally were the rod that you pushed down into the solenoid with your foot, covered with a rubber top. The replacements are a microswitch that you close when you push down with your foot, two small wires carry the current to the exciter on the solenoid, closing the contacts and powering the windlass. This style has lasted a lot longer than the originals did. All for less than $100 at Harbour Chandler in Nanaimo, so should be available everywhere there is a good marine store.
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04-16-2016, 07:46 AM
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#16
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Guru
City: North Charleston, SC
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,869
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Some of the smaller windlasses do not use a contactor (relay). The full current goes through the switches.
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04-16-2016, 10:47 AM
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#17
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TF Site Team
City: Saltspring Island
Vessel Name: Retreat
Vessel Model: C&L 44
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 5,656
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WesK
Some of the smaller windlasses do not use a contactor (relay). The full current goes through the switches.
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So easy to change. Just add the micro foot switches and new solenoids.
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04-18-2016, 10:52 AM
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#18
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Guru
City: Inside Passage Summer/Columbia River Winter
Vessel Name: Alaskan Sea-Duction
Vessel Model: 1988 M/Y Camargue YachtFisher
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 8,046
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caltexflanc
Those switches carry the entire current? On the boats I've been involved in, the switches activate the solenoid set. I bet yours do too.
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You could be right. All I know is when I push on the up, the chain comes in and when I push on the down, the anchor and chain gets wet. Yep works for me.....
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04-18-2016, 11:05 AM
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#19
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Guru
City: North Charleston, SC
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 4,869
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koliver
So easy to change. Just add the micro foot switches and new solenoids.
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Considering the cost of a contactor, I just upsized to a windlass that included the contactor. The switches are the same.
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