Removing panel switches

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GoneDiving

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Jul 24, 2019
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Australia
I'm in the process of moving onto rewiring my DC wiring. It occurred to me that a lot of my equipment (radios, sounder etc) has both rocker switches and their own built in on/off switch.

Has anyone had any issues with relying on only equipments' own switch? I'm thinking that removing the additional rocker switch will simplify wiring and be one less thing to fail. If I do need isolation (a rare event) I can just pull the fuse.

Note I'm not talking about removing fuses. Obviously, they would stay.

Thanks.
 
Me, I always got rid of hidden factory fuses and set up one of these as the "electronics/helm" fuse block (because most things do have on/off switches).

The only gear that routinely does need an on off switch are autopilots...not sure if that is changing.
 

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I think the concept of just using the device's own on/off switch in conjunction with blade fuse block Scott posted an image of is a very good solution during a re-wire.

But I'm not a qualified electrician and have not read the relevant codes or Standards so best to find one to check with if you can. I don't think there are any members here with the relevant Australia-recognised ticket.

Here is a link to the relevant Standard, but you have to buy it. Could still be worthwhile to do that anyway.

https://ablis.business.gov.au/servi...llations-marinas-and-recreational-boats/17382
 
I really struggle to read the size of inline glass fuses and the are often hidden in hard to reach spots, the blade fuse is much easier to work with.
 
Many times those fuse blocks will have blown fuse indicators as well. Really handy. They’re a great way to group all those small loads onto one breaker and still have individual fuse protection.
 
Me, I always got rid of hidden factory fuses and set up one of these as the "electronics/helm" fuse block (because most things do have on/off switches).

The only gear that routinely does need an on off switch are autopilots...not sure if that is changing.

Agree with Scott on the Blue Sea fuse block. Power the block with a breaker of your choice. 30 amps?

These are also excellent if you want to take power directly from the battery. Always powered on situation.

Blue Sea 5024 ST Blade Battery Terminal Mount Fuse Block Kit
 
Agree with Scott on the Blue Sea fuse block. Power the block with a breaker of your choice. 30 amps?

These are also excellent if you want to take power directly from the battery. Always powered on situation.

Blue Sea 5024 ST Blade Battery Terminal Mount Fuse Block Kit

If you do run power directly off the battery make sure you put a breaker very close to the battery that is sized properly to protect the cable going to the fuse block.
 
The rocker switches are there to completely kill power to such devices. Even with their own power switches they can drain a battery when off. Helps to extend discharge rate when not in use. If you want yeah you could eliminate the switch and then pull fuses but not my favorite way to open circuts. Could cause a lose connection with enough wear.
 
The rocker switches are there to completely kill power to such devices. Even with their own power switches they can drain a battery when off. Helps to extend discharge rate when not in use. If you want yeah you could eliminate the switch and then pull fuses but not my favorite way to open circuts. Could cause a lose connection with enough wear.

Or like I do/did, just flip the breaker to that fuse block.
 
Agree with Scott on the Blue Sea fuse block. Power the block with a breaker of your choice. 30 amps?

These are also excellent if you want to take power directly from the battery. Always powered on situation.

Blue Sea 5024 ST Blade Battery Terminal Mount Fuse Block Kit

i've seen those, and think they might be good for some certain instances, but i had an insurance company ding me once for having stuff connected to the batteries directly. they indicated that the only thing on the battery post was supposed to be a cable going directly to a disconnect.
 
The rocker switches are there to completely kill power to such devices. Even with their own power switches they can drain a battery when off. Helps to extend discharge rate when not in use. If you want yeah you could eliminate the switch and then pull fuses but not my favorite way to open circuts. Could cause a lose connection with enough wear.

Valid points. I see individual fuse removal as a very infrequent requirement to allow change out or maintenance. Certainly not daily/weekly use whenever the vessel is shut down.

Residual draw would need to be zero when turned off.

I like the idea of isolating the fuse box with a breaker vs larger fuse.

Thanks
 
i've seen those, and think they might be good for some certain instances, but i had an insurance company ding me once for having stuff connected to the batteries directly. they indicated that the only thing on the battery post was supposed to be a cable going directly to a disconnect.

You should actually take power off the battery switch which is essentially directly to the battery.
 
Or like I do/did, just flip the breaker to that fuse block.

Thats what I have been doing lately. The Blue Seas power blocks with both the power and ground posts with the blown fuse indicator are excellent. For instance I have one being fed by one of the main panel 30 AMP breakers relabeled "Helm DC". From the Blue Seas block individual items are fused and fed such as the Gooseneck helm light, the USB charger, and several other misc. items. And of course to turn them off I just hit the "Helm DC breaker on the main panel. Its very useful when powering newly added LED lights that no longer require a ton of power.
 
i've seen those, and think they might be good for some certain instances, but i had an insurance company ding me once for having stuff connected to the batteries directly. they indicated that the only thing on the battery post was supposed to be a cable going directly to a disconnect.
I may still have atleast one bilge pump circut directly fuesd to the batteries.
 
I recently just upgraded my old Perko push button breaker panel with a blue seas 22 position panel. Where I had individual fuses and switches I brought those onto the panel. I still have to bring my diesel heater onto the panel with its own circuit. What you want to be able to do is shut off all your 12v devices when you shut off your panel. Only your bilge pumps, fridge and any security devices, if 12v should be left on when shutting off the main dc switch.
 

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