Oven microwave/cooktop on inverter circuit

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Inverter Loads

We had the Magnum 2812 inverter in our last boat, it was also powered by a 1245 AH house bank. If you have very robust 12v electrical circuits there will be no problem running either the microwave or the cook top. Elizabeth has baked brownies in the electric oven using the inverter. If our 660w solar had the batteries full and there was still sun to produce part of the load I would run the 1200 watt water heater off the inverter.

On key is to use large 4/0 cable and heavy duty connectors to reduce voltage drop.

Shay
 
We had the Magnum 2812 inverter in our last boat, it was also powered by a 1245 AH house bank. If you have very robust 12v electrical circuits there will be no problem running either the microwave or the cook top. Elizabeth has baked brownies in the electric oven using the inverter. If our 660w solar had the batteries full and there was still sun to produce part of the load I would run the 1200 watt water heater off the inverter.

On key is to use large 4/0 cable and heavy duty connectors to reduce voltage drop.

Shay

Hi, Shay. You had sent me pictures of your house bank a few years ago and we modeled ours after yours. One of the best upgrades we made. I used 4/0 for the bulk circuits—along with the right size circuit protection, HD lugs and switching—and we haven’t had a single problem. Thanks again.
 
Steve,
You said "The induction cooktop I am looking at a max of 1100W so even if I ran both (and very little else) I wouldn't max that out, ...."
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Couple of questions, how many 'burners' do you get the the 1100W Gimme a brand please so I can read about it. SMILE
You are replacing the oven too. What brand?

How many amps are we talking about?

Finally, remember you/we have to have the battery power to back all this up.
Ah yes, I remember my N46 50amp 8D battery boat. I could run the total my total electric galley IF I didn't try to run the oven, 3 burners, oven AND the HW heater all at the same time. The HW stayed hot until I was finished cooking even if someone took a lengthy shower at the same time. That is a thing of the past for me.

I have 3x4D AGM house batteries and 1 4dAGM start battery. When I run the 1800amp inverter for a minute, it sucks the batteries down to about 11.5vts. I have a Xantex 40amp true charger. (I understand the new Xantex true chargers can now be "stacked". The new ones, if you had a 40amp charger and wanted a bigger charger, just "stack" a 2nd 40amp charger into the charging system.)
My generator is a Northern Lights 6KW. 1200watt microwave. The boat is a 30amp boat.

My point is, we need the battery power and inverter and charger to backup all these modifications. I do a lot of power shedding, the first to go is always the HW heater.

My desire is to change from the Force 10 3 burner electric stove to an induction stove top with the knowage things cook faster but, I am stumped on a what your recommendation is for an "oven".

I am not necessarily trying to run everything off the inverter because, I dont have the battery power to support everything, I know this. I willing accept that my 1200 watt would be replaced by the microwave/oven.
I am always open for suggestions.

I've looked at many brands for both the cooktop and the oven/microwave combo. The issue has primarily been space, which is always the case on a boat, isn't it?

The 1000W induction cooktop versions are a single burner, which might be too small if I needed two burners, although rare. They are also very small form factor wise, and I'd need to build a surround to install one. I've also considered just using a plug in countertop versions, of which there are many available, and just covering over where the oven has burners now.

Kenyon has some really nice dual burner, touch interface versions but they are 1800W assuming you're using both at the same time. Here's one of them: https://www.cookwithkenyon.com/shop/silken2-2-burner-trimline/

The oven/microwave has been a bit more challenging in some ways. I've found simple ones like this one https://www.recpro.com/rv-convection-microwave-stainless-steel/ that would do well in the space, but are a bit small. Many mainstream brands have surrounds or trim pieces that would allow them to be mounted underneath in a cabinet and still get proper ventilation. Most of these vary from 1000W-1500W depending on which settings you're using.

My goal has always been to be able to cook a decent sized pizza in one of these, and this particular one above is pretty small. The larger ones get a bit more complicated because they're generally meant for home install and much wider.

One I had been looking at was this GE one: https://www.geappliances.com/applia...crowave-Convection-Oven-PWB7030SLSS?rrec=true. It uses 1000W as a microwave, and 1600W as a convection oven. The width is still an issue, so I am looking at options there.

If I chose the biggest of both of these, with the 1800W cooktop and 1600W oven, I would be over my 3000W inverter max by 400W. The likelihood of using both the cooktop and oven at the same time is pretty rare, but it could happen.

I'm still considering putting the oven/microwave on the inverter and leaving the induction cooktop on the generator only. Right now, I have a 1100W microwave that is on the inverter and it works just fine. You do have to be aware of turning too many things on while on battery mainly because of the inverter max, but that's nothing new.

I definitely have the battery power to back it up. I have 800 amp hours of LiFePO4 which could pump out 800 amps of continuous power or 1600 amps for a short time if I had an inverter capable of consuming that much :) I've seen my 3000W inverter pull around 275 amps when I tested it fully loaded with the microwave, coffee machine, and other things all running. Voltage never wavered, but that's expected with LiFePO4 and one of the reasons I switched to it on this boat and the last.

If I am on shore power, the Power Assist function of the Victron will pull power from the batteries to cover things if I exceed what I can get from the 30 amp shore power, all the way up to 50 amps total, which is nice. So if I forget to turn off the water heater, and have other things on, and kick on the microwave, coffee machine, and maybe a burner, I am just pulling amps from the battery bank to cover the overage since I'm at the dock and can be recharged afterwards.

My inverter has a 120 amp charger, and I'm adding an additional 60 amp charger to bring me to 180 amps of charging while plugged in to shore power.

If I'm out and about, my 9kw generator can handle 50 amps of output, and handles that load. Charging underway is something I wrote about recently in my Wakespeed alternator review at https://seabits.com/wakespeed-ws-500-regulator-review/ - I can charge at around 400 amps continuously while the main engines are on which includes the two 175 amp Balmar XT series alternators and 120 amps from the Victron inverter/charger if the generator is on. That will go up to 460 amps with the new AC charger, run by the generator as well. I can generally recharge my LiFePO4 bank from almost empty in about 2 hours, which still amazes me.

What I really need to find is the convection oven/microwave combo. Once I am able to narrow that down, then the induction cooktop will fall into place easily, and whether to wire them both to inverter or not will be dictated by the overall power budget of the two.
 
What I really need to find is the convection oven/microwave combo. Once I am able to narrow that down, then the induction cooktop will fall into place easily, and whether to wire them both to inverter or not will be dictated by the overall power budget of the two.


If it helps, ours is a Sharp Carousel, and also says Grill 2 Convection on the door. Model number is R820BC. (I think the BC just means black.)

Works like a champ, but I dunno if still made, or if not, whether there's a successor.

-Chris
 
I've looked at many brands for both the cooktop and the oven/microwave combo. The issue has primarily been space, which is always the case on a boat, isn't it?

The 1000W induction cooktop versions are a single burner, which might be too small if I needed two burners, although rare. They are also very small form factor wise, and I'd need to build a surround to install one. I've also considered just using a plug in countertop versions, of which there are many available, and just covering over where the oven has burners now.

Kenyon has some really nice dual burner, touch interface versions but they are 1800W assuming you're using both at the same time. Here's one of them: https://www.cookwithkenyon.com/shop/silken2-2-burner-trimline/

The oven/microwave has been a bit more challenging in some ways. I've found simple ones like this one https://www.recpro.com/rv-convection-microwave-stainless-steel/ that would do well in the space, but are a bit small. Many mainstream brands have surrounds or trim pieces that would allow them to be mounted underneath in a cabinet and still get proper ventilation. Most of these vary from 1000W-1500W depending on which settings you're using.

My goal has always been to be able to cook a decent sized pizza in one of these, and this particular one above is pretty small. The larger ones get a bit more complicated because they're generally meant for home install and much wider.

One I had been looking at was this GE one: https://www.geappliances.com/applia...crowave-Convection-Oven-PWB7030SLSS?rrec=true. It uses 1000W as a microwave, and 1600W as a convection oven. The width is still an issue, so I am looking at options there.

If I chose the biggest of both of these, with the 1800W cooktop and 1600W oven, I would be over my 3000W inverter max by 400W. The likelihood of using both the cooktop and oven at the same time is pretty rare, but it could happen.

I'm still considering putting the oven/microwave on the inverter and leaving the induction cooktop on the generator only. Right now, I have a 1100W microwave that is on the inverter and it works just fine. You do have to be aware of turning too many things on while on battery mainly because of the inverter max, but that's nothing new.

I definitely have the battery power to back it up. I have 800 amp hours of LiFePO4 which could pump out 800 amps of continuous power or 1600 amps for a short time if I had an inverter capable of consuming that much :) I've seen my 3000W inverter pull around 275 amps when I tested it fully loaded with the microwave, coffee machine, and other things all running. Voltage never wavered, but that's expected with LiFePO4 and one of the reasons I switched to it on this boat and the last.

If I am on shore power, the Power Assist function of the Victron will pull power from the batteries to cover things if I exceed what I can get from the 30 amp shore power, all the way up to 50 amps total, which is nice. So if I forget to turn off the water heater, and have other things on, and kick on the microwave, coffee machine, and maybe a burner, I am just pulling amps from the battery bank to cover the overage since I'm at the dock and can be recharged afterwards.

My inverter has a 120 amp charger, and I'm adding an additional 60 amp charger to bring me to 180 amps of charging while plugged in to shore power.

If I'm out and about, my 9kw generator can handle 50 amps of output, and handles that load. Charging underway is something I wrote about recently in my Wakespeed alternator review at https://seabits.com/wakespeed-ws-500-regulator-review/ - I can charge at around 400 amps continuously while the main engines are on which includes the two 175 amp Balmar XT series alternators and 120 amps from the Victron inverter/charger if the generator is on. That will go up to 460 amps with the new AC charger, run by the generator as well. I can generally recharge my LiFePO4 bank from almost empty in about 2 hours, which still amazes me.

What I really need to find is the convection oven/microwave combo. Once I am able to narrow that down, then the induction cooktop will fall into place easily, and whether to wire them both to inverter or not will be dictated by the overall power budget of the two.

GE makes a 27-inch wide version of the Advantium you’re looking at. We have one and love it. MW is 950 watts; oven broiler is 1200. Full specs are here:

https://www.geappliances.com/applia...le-Wall-Oven-Advantium-Technology-PSB9100SFSS
 

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