oh no! have to drill into my roof

[BrianG]

I don't believe in making holes in my boat. Overall seems like a bad idea. But I have to run antenna cables into the wheelhouse. Also have running light wires to seal up. PO had some version of 5200 glopped around the wire hole. There must be a better way. Wood roof. Suggestions? Thanks in advance...

 

[Prospective]

Google cable clam. Scan strut and blue seas are among many vendors.

 

[Comodave]

I agree on the deck fittings that seal a cable. They work pretty well.

 

[psneeld]

I try and make the hole on a vertical surface (cabin side) versus roof if possible. That way I can cover the hole and cable with adequate goop and a clam shell with a drip loop in the wire/cable.

No sealing material exposed to the sun and now gravity is your friend.

I have seen stainless 120 degree bent tubes with a flanges that can be mounted in the foof. This give an upwards run of the wire where it enters the tube, then turns down. Filled with caulk....again only metal sees the sun and gravity wicks away from entering the fitting.

 

[BrianG]

Those will work for my antenna cables, thank you, but the running lights may not have the space. Am I stuck with using 4200?

 

[psneeld]

Picture would help.

 

[Prospective]

Those will work for my antenna cables, thank you, but the running lights may not have the space. Am I stuck with using 4200?

They make them in a lot of sizes. Here's another version.

https://sea-dog.com/categories/electrical-panels-connectors-battery-accessories/cable-outlet

 

[Comodave]

I would use Sika 291.

 

[Simi 60]

Drill oversize hole
Fill with epoxy glue
Drill out cable sized hole leaving epoxy annulus
Feed in cable to where you want it, pull back an inch and put chosen sealant around and push back in.
Wet finger to pull a neat cove around cable.

Its how I've been doing it on various boats for near 40 years and never had a leak or rot yet.

 

[Simi 60]

They make them in a lot of sizes. Here's another version.

https://sea-dog.com/categories/electrical-panels-connectors-battery-accessories/cable-outlet

Every screw hole is a potential leak/ rot point

 

[RT Firefly]

 

[O C Diver]

Drill the hole, then tape it from the bottom, and finally fill it with West System epoxy. When the epoxy starts to kick, pull the tape and let the excess epoxy drain. Epoxy soaks into the wood sealing it. Then pick your sealing system of choice. As mentioned, it's much better to penetrate horizontal walls as the water naturally drains.

Ted

 

[Nomad Willy]

I made an entry way for all my wiring from the helm station to the roof on Willy through a preformed truck radiator hose that went up and Then back down again .. much like a high elbow exhaust. No pic. I used a thru-hull and bronze threaded to hose barb fitting. It’s bolted through the deck/overhead and bedded w Sekia-Flex. Hasn’t leaked in 10 years but if it does I can remove and re-bed.
No water has ever come through the hole except some mist in high winds w lots of rain. I don’t remember specifically but I’m quite sure I coated the edge of the hole (Plywood) w Sika-Flex also.
I drilled the hole w a hole saw.

Edit:
I found a pic of the boat that shows the wiring tube I made.
Look right above the helmsman's stbd window on the roof.
It's black as any good rad hose should be.

 

[BrianG]

Picture would help.

first pic is port light, second pic is odd, PO put this wood block wire hole along with a 16# deadended to it. Then a cap piece screwed down to water seal it. Not sure what this gives you.

 

[psneeld]

That bottom pic looks like a gland pass thru fir antenna cable.....I have only seen a few in all the years boating, they have a groove leading to a center hole....does this gave a groove?

Just a side note on the light screen color....this from the Navrules


5. Screens ‹ for sidelights › . Return to the top of the page

ǂ (a) The sidelights of vessels of 20 meters or more in length shall be fitted with ‹ inboard screens painted › matt black, ‹‹ inboard screens ›› and meet‹ing› the requirements of §9ǂ15. On vessels of less than 20 meters in length, the sidelights, if necessary to meet the requirements of §9ǂ15, shall be fitted with ‹ inboard › matt black ‹‹ inboard ›› screens. With a combined lantern, using a single vertical filament and a very narrow division between the green and red sections, external screens need not be fitted.

I have discussed this regulation with active USCG inspectors who agree that using the same color as the light can possible show improperly due to glare reflecting off red or green paint. I believe the use of red/green plexiglass screen will one day get a Ranger tug owner in trouble if there is not some kind of compliance waiver.

My old boss for all our commercial boats used PVC fittings to form standpipe like Nomad Willy suggested upside down "J"s.

 

[firehoser75]

Sika Flex 295 UV has better UV resistance than most other caulks (including SF 291). If running new wire, I agree about using the "walls" with a clamshell and drip loop or at least using a wire clam for the roof, which would be sealed with SF 295.
I also don't like putting holes in my boat's roof.

 

[BrianG]

That bottom pic looks like a gland pass thru fir antenna cable.....I have only seen a few in all the years boating, they have a groove leading to a center hole....does this gave a groove?

Just a side note on the light screen color....this from the Navrules


5. Screens ‹ for sidelights › . Return to the top of the page

ǂ (a) The sidelights of vessels of 20 meters or more in length shall be fitted with ‹ inboard screens painted › matt black, ‹‹ inboard screens ›› and meet‹ing› the requirements of §9ǂ15. On vessels of less than 20 meters in length, the sidelights, if necessary to meet the requirements of §9ǂ15, shall be fitted with ‹ inboard › matt black ‹‹ inboard ››

If you unscrew the cap piece from the base, inside the base there's an oblong hole and a #16 wire threaded through and neatly terminated.

So I am supposed to paint my signboards flat black?

 

[Comodave]

Sika Flex 295 UV has better UV resistance than most other caulks (including SF 291). If running new wire, I agree about using the "walls" with a clamshell and drip loop or at least using a wire clam for the roof, which would be sealed with SF 295.
I also don't like putting holes in my boat's roof.

I used Sika 291 to caulk the teak toe rail to the glass. I used the prescribed primer first on the teak. Then we painted over the caulk so UV should not be a problem. The 295 UV is designed for sticking to plexiglass and the like. Not sure if it really works well on wood or not. I used it to seal my plexi windscreen to the fiberglass and it has worked very well so far.

 

[Simi 60]

Said it here before but word a mate in the commercial boating game who uses plenty of it got from an ex sika rep is that all their product is pretty much the same.
MSDS would confirm this.

We have been using sika pro sausages, a fraction of the price of the "marine" branded stuff - no primer, used underwater on a timber boat, no issues.

Used same stuff to glue down 9 x 250w solar panels to the roof on plastic blocks.
Been there 4 years and seen 80 knots.

I could be wrong but real life usage suggests we are not.

 

[psneeld]

If you unscrew the cap piece from the base, inside the base there's an oblong hole and a #16 wire threaded through and neatly terminated.

So I am supposed to paint my signboards flat black?

That is my interpretation.....flat or Matt black so little to no reflection.

The same here that argue about navlight lightbulb types should be squawking about colored screen boards.

 

[Capt Dan]

Here is an idea for you, one that I have used on occasion.

I like to use PVC pipe as a conduit thru the deck. PVC glues well, can be cut using a wood saw, doesn't expand and contract much, and is available. And bigger is better, because there will always be more wires than you think.

Choose your pipe size, then find a hole saw that is slightly bigger, (it is a good idea to leave room for the 4000 UV). Lightly sanding the outside of the pipe will give the 4000 a very good bonding surface.

Once your hole is drilled, and you know the PVC fits easily, coat all newly exposed surfaces with penetrating epoxy. The measure the depth of the hole, then cut your PVC an inch or better longer than the thickness of the deck so you will have plenty sticking up above the deck line. This keeps casual water out. You can also construct an elbow as mentioned by others in which case you may want your pipe more than an inch above deck level. You don't necessarily have to glue these joints as it may be an advantage to be able to remove the elbow while threading more wires.

Make sure to bevel any inner edges to lessen chafe where wires enter and exit.

This method has never failed me.

I would never ever glue a wire in place. This may make a hard stress point in the wire and is hard to service, change or repair. That method would be a red flag if I were inspecting a boat.

Dan

 

[BrianG]

Here is an idea for you, one that I have used on occasion.

I like to use PVC pipe as a conduit thru the deck. PVC glues well, can be cut using a wood saw, doesn't expand and contract much, and is available. And bigger is better, because there will always be more wires than you think.

Choose your pipe size, then find a hole saw that is slightly bigger, (it is a good idea to leave room for the 4000 UV). Lightly sanding the outside of the pipe will give the 4000 a very good bonding surface.

Once your hole is drilled, and you know the PVC fits easily, coat all newly exposed surfaces with penetrating epoxy. The measure the depth of the hole, then cut your PVC an inch or better longer than the thickness of the deck so you will have plenty sticking up above the deck line. This keeps casual water out. You can also construct an elbow as mentioned by others in which case you may want your pipe more than an inch above deck level. You don't necessarily have to glue these joints as it may be an advantage to be able to remove the elbow while threading more wires.

Make sure to bevel any inner edges to lessen chafe where wires enter and exit.

This method has never failed me.

I would never ever glue a wire in place. This may make a hard stress point in the wire and is hard to service, change or repair. That method would be a red flag if I were inspecting a boat.

Dan

How about copper tubing/flange with 90 Degree bend bedded in butyl tape?

 

[Nomad Willy]

Do you like green?

 

[C lectric]

I see these plastic pipe entries on a number of boats. I will admit most are aboard commercial vessels such as smaller fishing boats.

The pipe is usually PVC "PIPE", schedule 40. Flanges, 90o & 45o elbows amongst other fittings can be used to get the opening to face down excluding any rain and seawater unless the boat turn turtle. It is quite tough although could be broken if hit with a sledge or a big hammer hard enough.

For joining the fittings use the suggested solvent glue AND the purple primer.

PVC "PIPE" can be painted successfully so if you won't want the white then paint it and colour it as you wish. I have used the spray paints. Just wipe the pipe down with a solvent such as paint thinner. The processing leaves some wax on the surface and if not removed can interfere with paint adhesion.

There is also Sch 80 pipe which is even stronger but may not be so readily available.

Do not use the light guage PVC tubing intended for non pressurized applications. The walls are quite thin often around 1/16 " or less..

 

[sbman]

This style is used on RV roofs for solar cables:

Solar RV Roof Cable Housing

 

[Group9]

Google cable clam. Scan strut and blue seas are among many vendors.

Yep, we used the Scanstrut seal (bought them at West Marine) when running the power cables from our solar panels through the roof. That was a year and a half ago, and no leaks yet!

 

[Capt Dan]

Note also that any of these store bought cable clams you will be drilling four holes, one for the wire and three(at least) for screws, and that is for each wire.

PVC, make it big and group your wires.