Loctite on distribution block screws?

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OldToby

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Aug 10, 2015
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Location
USA
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Mary Elyse
Vessel Make
1964 Boston Whaler Eastport
I’m installing new wiring in the rebuilt cabin of my boat, and I plan to coat connections with dielectric grease before closing the wiring in. Should I also be applying some sort of Loctite to prevent screws on the distribution blocks from backing out?
 

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There may be locking little teeth-like texture under the screwhead or a star washer to “lock” the screws. If you do use locktite and dielectric grease put the grease on last. And you could buy star washers.

I don’t use either locktite or lock washers and can’t recall a problem related to this. I wonder if there’s some kind of locking device or feature inherent in the attachments.

You may get undesirable results w the two products (Locktite and di-grease) mixing together during the installation.
 
never had one get loose if tightened well.

good ones use star washers.

I would be afraid the locktight may cause some insulation....but I really dont think so. You chould always check resistance if they are low amperage connections.
 
No, I would not use locktite. I would check the connections when it gets hot this summer. As they get hot sometimes they become a bit loose. Whenever I do wiring in the winter I check them in the summer for tightness. After the second tightening I never had any get loose.
 
I’m using all Blue Sea stuff, which seems to be good quality. I’ll get ahold of them, see what they recommend. I figure to supplement what BS tells me with readers’ real-world experience. Thanks!!
 
There are some good reasons NOT to use dielectric grease, which is really "silicone grease". It can migrate to surfaces you may want to paint someday.
Goggle the horror of paint fisheyes

I use liquid tape on top of cinch jones barrier strips. If done with a few coats, it will peel off intact when needed. No need for thread lock. Use a star washer if vib is an issue, like ON an engine.
 
I prefer something like Corrosion X over dielectric grease, but whatever you use in this application put it on over the completed and screwed down connection. Never seen the need for Loctite either on dozens and dozens of these terminal blocks. Does the boat hull have a lot of vibration?

By the way, maybe it is the camera angle, but are those spade connectors on the cable coming in from the right?
 
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All electrical connections can suffer from heating when loaded.

The star washers allow some metal expansion and later contraction , and keep the contacts tight to each other.

Even 50 year old ones usually have enough spring left to work fine.

If you are really nervous use a paint pen to draw a line on each finished connection.

Then at a glance you could spot a change.
 
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I prefer something like Corrosion X over dielectric grease, but whatever you use in this application put it on over the completed and screwed down connection. Never seen the need for Loctite either on dozens and dozens of these terminal blocks. Does the boat hull have a lot of vibration?

By the way, maybe it is the camera angle, but are those spade connectors on the cable coming in from the right?



No, not spade connectors. All ring connectors throughout the install. I never want to have to mess with the wiring again, at least not where it’s closed in.
 
Use the star washers and ensure the wiring is secured to minimise movement.

No Loctite required.
 
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