LED light bulbs . . .

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jwnall

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Don't know how many of you have been tracking the prices of LED light bulbs, but the prices have fallen dramatically lately. Obviously boat people have an interest in keeping the current drain as low as possible, and LED light bulbs seem to me to be the way to do that. I just bought five of them on amazon.com for $45, with free shipping. I suspect the prices will drop further.

John
 
Don't know how many of you have been tracking the prices of LED light bulbs, but the prices have fallen dramatically lately. Obviously boat people have an interest in keeping the current drain as low as possible, and LED light bulbs seem to me to be the way to do that. I just bought five of them on amazon.com for $45, with free shipping. I suspect the prices will drop further.

John

John: You're right prices are coming down. What did you get? We have lots of LEDs on board but haven't found a satisfactory replacement for the galley. We're looking to replace the 10" fluorescent over the stove and the light over the counter.
 
Have you ever looked here: Boat/RV/Other LED Replacement Bulbs | Boat, RV, and Other Lighting | Super Bright LEDs

Larry, you might want to look here....

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/rigid-light-bars/

I used these...for the same use you mentioned...

http://www.superbrightleds.com/more...ies-96-led-waterproof-flexible-light-bar/123/

If you don't need the entire 38" strip in one place, on strip can be cut and split into two pieces both having power wires. I have used a bunch of these...connected directly to the boat's 12VDC circuit, both in the galley...and in the engine room.

If you try them...I suggest ordering one...and putting it up where you want it...I think you'll find if you use the "cool white" like we did, you will have far more light than any flourescent tube will give you.
 
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I bought the EVER 6 watt bulbs, which are a direct replacement for a 50-watt incandescent bulb. $8.99 each, with free shipping (although the free shipping has to do with my being a member of Amazon Prime). But there are comparable prices in Lowe's and Home Depot. (Wish I were in Puerto Rico on a Krogen 42! Sigh.)
.
John
 
I bought 70 G4 LED bulbs on Ebay for $1.34 each and just put them in last weekend.

What a difference in current draw!


Also installed three LED "rope" lights each 5 meters.
 
Installed LED strip lighting in our salon and under the cabinets in the galley and settee. Much brighter and consistent amount of light. Have a few more to install soon.
 
LED inside is grand ,

but many nav lights , esp the expensive ones, require a pin point light in a fixed position to be legal.

With engine on required to move , we use 25W bulbs for longest range.

LED anchor light is a different deal, just purchase a legal LED unit of proper size..
 
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LED inside is grand ,

but many nav lights , esp the expensive ones, require a pin point light in a fixed position to be legal.

With engine on required to move , we use 25W bulbs for longest range.

LED anchor light is a different deal, just purchase a legal LED unit of proper size..
Since navigation lights have to be two specific colors, there are several replacements available that are specifically designed as marine navigation lights. If you can find one of these that's a direct replacement for your incandescent bulbs, you should be fine.

And of course, you can buy complete replacement fixtures that will work if mounted as directed.
 
Have you ever looked here: Boat/RV/Other LED Replacement Bulbs | Boat, RV, and Other Lighting | Super Bright LEDs

Larry, you might want to look here....

Rigid LED Light Bars | LED Light Strips & Bars | Super Bright LEDs

I used these...for the same use you mentioned...

WFLB series 96 LED Waterproof Flexible Light Bar | Side Emitting | Flexible LED Light Strips | LED Light Strips & Bars | Super Bright LEDs

If you don't need the entire 38" strip in one place, on strip can be cut and split into two pieces both having power wires. I have used a bunch of these...connected directly to the boat's 12VDC circuit, both in the galley...and in the engine room.

If you try them...I suggest ordering one...and putting it up where you want it...I think you'll find if you use the "cool white" like we did, you will have far more light than any flourescent tube will give you.

Thanks. I have tried so many different LEDs, sometimes I think I could open a store with the ones that aren't quite right. I'll take a look at the Superbrights.
 
I have been looking for a way to light inside the flybridge, I came across a solar panel "light rope" set of a small solar panel with it's batteries, and about 12' of white light "rope" the panel has a 6' power cord so it can be mounted on the mast in my case I mounted the rope light I down the center fore and aft of the bimini top inside. We are travelling now so it is jury rigged ith some sewing thread. It has dawn to dusk operation, so I can leave it on all the time. It is not real bright but gives off the amount of light I want. It has an on-off switch in case I want it off at night. I believe it was $25.00 With the solar lights at Home Depot, it is made for outdoor use, no exposed metal that I saw
 
I bought an LED replacement for my 1142 bulb [~ 1.7A each] last year as a trial, . Bright and a nice ww colour.
Today I bought 4 more. They were not cheap at ~$25.00 each but they appear to be good units and will drop a fair bit of draw off my batteries at ~0.16A ea.

The total replacements will draw less than one of the old bulbs.

Source LED
Source Led - led light bulbs, lighting, led replacement bulbs The site seems to be going through some revisions so doesn't show all the product line.
I bought:
SL-G4-105mtbp-ww
SL-G4-12smtxlbp-ww These are brighter than the above and will be used for dedicated reading lights. The other for general illumination.
SL-42-G4-adapter to adapt to the 1142 sockets as required.

I'm sure your needs will vary but with all the different mfgr.s now there are lots available. We definitely wanted the warm white. I've tried the cool white and they were so harsh we wouldn't use them.

The best part for me was these were available locally, sort of, and I was able to buy one for a test and then look at the other configurations to judge suitability. That's important. Some of the LEDs will fit the fixture but because of the light spreading or lack of it are now always what they seem, too directional.
 
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If you can find one of these that's a direct replacement for your incandescent bulbs, you should be fine.

And of course, you can buy complete replacement fixtures that will work if mounted as directed.

I'd go with new fixtures. It's not much more money, and they're guaranteed to be CG approved. Remember that if you ever get into any kind of an accident in restricted visibility or at night, the other side will try to blame your lights, and they will be carefully inspected. If they're not 100% legal and working flawlessly, you'll be found at fault.

The biggest problem with navigation lights are corroded connections. Getting new bulbs doesn't solve this. The new LED fixtures are sealed and will never corrode.
 
I'd go with new fixtures. It's not much more money, and they're guaranteed to be CG approved. Remember that if you ever get into any kind of an accident in restricted visibility or at night, the other side will try to blame your lights, and they will be carefully inspected. If they're not 100% legal and working flawlessly, you'll be found at fault..

As I read the requirements they seem to be performance based and don't require any manufacturer testing or certification. Perhaps there's a law or regulation that I haven't seen.

On my previous boat (a sport cruiser) I replaced the fixtures. On HIGH COTTON I wanted to keep the traditional look as much as possible so I just replaced the bulbs. I know about corrosion so I cleaned up the contacts and used a liberal amount of dielectric grease to keep moisture out. I suppose I could solder the LED bulbs if I have problems down the line.

I wouldn't try to solder the bulbs to the sockets, that would overheat and ruin them. I would use a piece of #22 or so stranded wire as a jumper from the bases to the sockets.
 
http://www.uscgboating.org/assets/pdf/recalls/BSC83.pdf

[FONT=TimesNewRoman,Bold]
COAST GUARD PUBLISHES FINAL RULE
ON NAVIGATION LIGHTS​
[/FONT]
At the back of this issue of the​
[FONT=TimesNewRoman,Bold]Boating Safety
Circular
[/FONT]is a Final Rule covering navigation lights
which was published in the Federal Register on
November 1, 2001. The effect of the rule will be to
require domestic manufacturers of vessels to install
only certified navigation lights on all new uninspected
commercial vessels and recreational vessels. This rule
aligns the requirements for these lights with those for
inspected commercial vessels and with requirements
for all other mandatory safety equipment carried on
board all vessels. A second Federal Register notice
delays the effective date of the navigation light final

rule until November 1, 2003.

The rule directs manufacturers of uninspected
commercial vessels and recreational vessels to install
only navigation lights certified and labeled as meeting
the technical requirements of the Navigation Rules.
It will standardize the navigation light requirement for
uninspected commercial vessels and recreational
vessels with the requirement for inspected​
commercial vessels........................................
 
and they're guaranteed to be CG approved

USCG approved is fine for a boat inland.

Sadly the USCG "standards" do not match the rest of the world, so outside 12 miles your lights could be illegal.

The hassle is the Coasties "approved" (grandfathered) those tiny SS lights pimples that have been around since the 50's on so many outboards, and a lot of boats up in the 40 ft size.

With the engine ON , what is the problem with big bulbs that cam be seen?
 
In the "old days", and probably still today, sail boaters would hoist a kerosene lantern up the mast for an anchor light. No USCG certification that I know of.
 
This is what I replaced my anchor light bulb with.

http://doctorled.com/Dr_LED_PRESS_RELEASE_0612.pdf

I agree with Fred. With the alternators pumping out current there is no need to convert the running lights.

LED lights can be as bright or brighter than incandescent lights. And they don't burn out or fail from vibration.

As I read the regulations, the requirements are the colors, the angle of illumination and the distance that they can be seen. Although the USCG may require US manufacturers to install certified lights (probably a good thing), the rules quoted don't seem to apply to boats manufactured before the rule goes into effect, boats manufactured in other countries, or owner modifications, upgrades or repairs.

Drive around in traffic at night and it's easy to notice how the vehicles with LED tail lights have brighter lights.
 
Actually from reading on TF I just recent;y replaced all of my interior lights.
For my boat, I used:
1. I replaced my under counter florescent with light strips from IKEA. Cutting off the 120 V transformers and wiring them directly for 12 VDC. They are about $12 and really low profile. I made an L shape using 6 strips (two sets).
2. i found 12 DC dual prong (automotive) on Amazon. About $3 each, I was able to get both warm white (2700K) and cool white (3000K). They were exactly as described.
3. Also thru Amazon, from China, i got 12VDC E36 (normal household base) bulbs to replace the ancient bulbs in my berth lights (those brass fixtures that were already dated in 1988 when my boat was built).
4. Lastly, I got long 24 ft reels of blue and white, which I added to my salon, sitting on top of the valance for the shades.

I can send some pictures or exact info if anyone is interested, but won'y be back to boat til next week.

Richard
 
LED lights can be as bright or brighter than incandescent lights. And they don't burn out or fail from vibration.

As I read the regulations, the requirements are the colors, the angle of illumination and the distance that they can be seen. Although the USCG may require US manufacturers to install certified lights (probably a good thing), the rules quoted don't seem to apply to boats manufactured before the rule goes into effect, boats manufactured in other countries, or owner modifications, upgrades or repairs.

Drive around in traffic at night and it's easy to notice how the vehicles with LED tail lights have brighter lights.


Ron, there seems to be some miss communication here. What I was trying to convey was that running lights are used while underway with engine running. Since the alternator is supplying ample power there is no need to convert those lights to LEDs. On the contrary, LEDs can be as bright or brighter, and the pure color is intense. No problem there. Probably most new navigation fixtures will be LEDs.
 
Ron, there seems to be some miss communication here. What I was trying to convey was that running lights are used while underway with engine running. Since the alternator is supplying ample power there is no need to convert those lights to LEDs. On the contrary, LEDs can be as bright or brighter, and the pure color is intense. No problem there. Probably most new navigation fixtures will be LEDs.

Yes, you have plenty of power available. But, incandescent lamps will burn out at the most inopportune times and the filaments can fail from vibration. The lack of heat means less fading of the lenses. Quality LEDs, properly installed, are lifetime maintenance free lighting.
 
Regarding navigation lights: We have been using LopoLights - they are legal in international waters.

Regarding accommodation lights: We have been using Imtra - for bridge applications they have a series of red/white lights plus dimming solutions where you can adjust to barely on. Also, warm color temps for below decks and cooler for the bridge.

Since we "motor" using electric power, we like using LED for ALL our lighting - only incandescent are the spot light and the light in the microwave (any suggestions?) - even our refrigerator lights are LED.
 
............ - only incandescent are the spot light and the light in the microwave (any suggestions?) - .......

Do you need a light in the microwave?

Actually, the current drawn by the lamp is very small compared to the current drawn by the oven. I don't think it's worth worrying about Cutting your cooking time from 60 to 59 seconds would probably save what the light is using.
 
My bad! The microwave is also the hood over the cook top. The light is UNDER the microwave illuminating the cooking surface and adjacent counter. This light may be on for an hour or two each evening - why use 40 watts when 5 will do the job? You're right, at 1,200 watts, every second that can be shaved off cooking time is significant - good catch!
 
My bad! The microwave is also the hood over the cook top. The light is UNDER the microwave illuminating the cooking surface and adjacent counter. This light may be on for an hour or two each evening - why use 40 watts when 5 will do the job? You're right, at 1,200 watts, every second that can be shaved off cooking time is significant - good catch!

Yes the range hood would be a good place for LEDs but make sure you get warm white. Standard or "cool white" will make the food look weird and unappetizing.
 
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