Kill-A Watt Meter on Sale

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

FlyWright

Guru
Site Team
Joined
Apr 15, 2008
Messages
13,731
Location
California Delta
Vessel Name
FlyWright
Vessel Make
1977 Marshall Californian 34 LRC
$14.99 w/Code: MLCKAM25L1 For First 100 Orders

This is a great tool for measuring electrical loads and monitoring the quality of shore power.

203-005.jpg



P3 International Kill A Watt P4400, Large LCD Display Electricity Usage Monitor, Learn Which Appliances Are Costing You The Most!
 
Last edited:
:thumb:+1

My a/c units(3), watermaker, dive compressor, refrigerator, etc have 110v 15 amp plugs on each power cord with dedicated GFI receptacles to match. This was done to make it easy to remove the units if it should become necessary, and the telltale lights on the GFI receptacles are a nice confirmation that you have power if something doesn't want to run. A hidden advantage is that I can plug each item into my Kill-A-Watt and see how much juice it consumes. Of course the microwave, electric kettle, toaster etc have plugs anyway, so I can compile a fairly complete list of how much each electrical item on the boat consumes and then load, but not overload, my 6.5Kw generator.

I would not recommend running the heavier appliances through a Kill-A-Watt for any length of time as they tend to get hot (according to some reviews), but a couple of minutes while taking a reading seems fine.

It should be born in mind that things like air-conditioning compressors take a lot more juice when starting than when running. Unfortunately the Kill-A-Watt does not seem to react fast enough to measure the start-up current.

One of these short extension cords can make the display much easier to read.
 

Attachments

  • Short extension.jpg
    Short extension.jpg
    7.2 KB · Views: 266
Last edited:
I used my Kill-a-watt to measure everything I use on the boat. Very useful, great tool, and helps with understanding the limits of boat electrical systems. Everytime I show my Admiral a reading on her plethora of appliances, she says "Oh".
 
"Unfortunately the Kill-A-Watt does not seem to react fast enough to measure the start-up current."

The start up load is perhaps 1/2 a second , doesn't do much for total watts consumed per 24 hours.

A low cost method to discover approximate LRC (locked rotor current AKA start up load) is to wire in a fuse box and see what size fuse blows and what size doesn't.
 
Bought one last year

I agree with the Kill-A-Watt accolades. Easy to use and inexpensive. Used it to figure out our solar requirement before going down that path.

Unfortunately, I bought mine for $25.

But done with it now and would sell it for $15 if the "deal" has expired on this website.

l.m.k. if anyone is interested.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Gee I got one au gratis a year and a half ago and never used it. I guess I should break it out and experiment a little bit.:hide:
 
Back
Top Bottom