Glenndining Synchronizer Resurection Tips...

[Osprey69]

I have the troubleshooting guide but thought there might be sage advice out there before I go down that Pandora's box.

 

[DW1979OA]

I have the Glendinning system in my boat. Full control, not just synchronizers. I’m guessing that you have fused power coming off of two battery banks. Might start there and be lucky like you were on the other system.

 

[hmason]

If it is not engaging start by checking the battery voltage. The solenoid is quite sensitive to low voltage.

 

[Comodave]

Following this thread. Our new boat has the engine synchronizer and so far has been great.

 

[Cleanslate]

Forget about it and disconnect it make sure your tachometers are working and go by ear.
My tachometers are spot on and my hair( lol! ) ear is pretty good too.
I have Detroit diesel’s I’m assuming you do to possibly you have kitty cats?
Detroit get a nice harmonic sound when they are in balance it’s pretty hard to miss.
If they sound like a inner-city rap song you’re out of rpm balance…

 

[Comodave]

Oh, I don’t know, on our new boat the sychronizer makes it dead simple to do. Advance the throttles a bit and engage it. Then use the port throttle and go. Doesn’t get much easier than that.

 

[klee wyck]

Subscribed.
I inherited a full control system on Domino with fixed stations at inside helm and at the fly and plug ins for remote on the foredeck and aft deck. I have no idea how that thing works and is on my 'to do' list to learn. It is on a boat so surely it will fail.
It sure is handy so far.

 

[psneeld]

Good ears are helpful, but a Glendenning is just about dead on for synching...in fact the older ones you were able to get very accurate tach info off. For some years I was one of the Glendenning sync guys in the Cape May area.

The older models from say 20 years ago were very simple setups and very reliable unless the cables were installed poorly. I still have one of the adjustment tools in my box and I haven't seen one in 15 years or more.

 

[tiltrider1]

I left a comment in OP’s other Glenndining thread. The synchronizer is fairly simple to diagnose. First check the mechanic cables to make sure they are not broken. Next check to see if you have voltage. Simple on mine as I have a led light that lets me know if it is on. Next check the micro switches, make sure one is not broken or stuck in the off position. If you actually get past this stage with no luck we will discuss the next round of possibilities.

 

[Osprey69]

Thanks to all. We have CAT 3208s. We were fine manually synchronizing on the way down the coast, but I have a thing about stuff working. If its there, it should work, whether I need/want it or not. Will attack once again after engine room paint and clean-up finished.

Quick question...I assume it only powers up when engine running, or can I diagnose with just keys on? Turned keys on and no light on panel and seemingly no power at unit.

Thanks to all for past and future responses.

 

[RichardM]

Thanks to all. We have CAT 3208s. We were fine manually synchronizing on the way down the coast, but I have a thing about stuff working. If its there, it should work, whether I need/want it or not. Will attack once again after engine room paint and clean-up finished.

Quick question...I assume it only powers up when engine running, or can I diagnose with just keys on? Turned keys on and no light on panel and seemingly no power at unit.

Thanks to all for past and future responses.

On my boat, it uses the fuel pressure switch to get power. Might be different on your engine. Oil pressure maybe? Pretty sure You can jump the switch to turn it on. Just be careful because it might turn on the engine hour meter as well. On my boat, it does

 

[Osprey69]

Seems to be wired into the ignition...

 

[Portage_Bay]

FWIW. Twin 3208 NA, energize to run, Glendenning syncronizer likely installed at build in '83.

A breaker for power to the circuit. Unit only energized when engine key switches are in rum position. Two stations with push / pull switches. The switches are state change similar to a 3 way light switch.

Troubleshooting no power on my system would start with breaker, then to however the unit gets power with keys on, then the push pull switches. And of course wiring and connections.

Quick question...I assume it only powers up when engine running, or can I diagnose with just keys on? Turned keys on and no light on panel and seemingly no power at unit.

On my boat, it uses the fuel pressure switch to get power. Might be different on your engine. Oil pressure maybe? Pretty sure You can jump the switch to turn it on. Just be careful because it might turn on the engine hour meter as well. On my boat, it does

Seems to be wired into the ignition...

 

[Osprey69]

When in doubt read the trouble shooting guide...

So it said if not engaging, give slave a bit of throttle off idle.

So I fired them up...and did as instructed.

Ding Ding! Worked a treat.

Thanks to all. This was actually easier than a fuse replacement, if that was possible.

What it comes down to is that my assumptions have always been that the PO did the basic stuff (like this) to repair "non-functioning components and when he told me the cable reel and synchronizer did not work, the problem would be something deep (time/energy/parts/$) inside.

Glad I was wrong.

POs. Gotta love 'em. Or not.

 

[tiltrider1]

You need to advance the throttle enough for the micro switch to turn on and let the electrons through. As you discovered once the throttle was advanced the light came on. As I mentioned earlier most real problems with the synchronizer are due to the cable from the engine to the synchronizer breaking.

 

[Osprey69]

Tilt, I don't see a reason to adjust the cables. Unless I am missing something, I am good to go.

 

[tiltrider1]

The cables are speedometer cables. There is a key at each end that fits into a slot. This is how the synchronizer knows what RPM each engine is turning. You usually push both throttles up to 800 RPMs then you turn on the synchronizer, then you advance the slave throttle to full stop. Now both engines will follow the master throttle and re-synchronize after each throttle movement. When you are done, turn off the synchronizer and pull both throttles back to idle. Now you are independent again.

 

[Comodave]

The cables are speedometer cables. There is a key at each end that fits into a slot. This is how the synchronizer knows what RPM each engine is turning. You usually push both throttles up to 800 RPMs then you turn on the synchronizer, then you advance the slave throttle to full stop. Now both engines will follow the master throttle and re-synchronize after each throttle movement. When you are done, turn off the synchronizer and pull both throttles back to idle. Now you are independent again.

That is bow I run mine. Seems to work fine but I wasn’t sure since the PO told me how to do it and I am finding that he wasn’t very knowledgeable about boats.

 

[porman]

Mine operates a little differently. With both engines at idle I turn the synchronizer on, the light goes on, I push the port throttle all the way up, the stbd throttle now operates both engines. A couple years ago the adapter for the cable on the front of the stbd crankshaft broke just after we started a 3 month vacation. Had to synch by ear for the whole trip.

 

[JP2]

The company has excellent tech reps around the country. Might contact one and get the real skinny.

 

[FBoykin]

My Glenndining cables connect to a 90-degree drive fitting that bolts to front of my CAT 3116 diesels. Fittings have a zerk grease fitting on them. I called the company a few years ago asking what grease to use and was told to use moly grease. I did a Google, but didn't find anything that looked like what I should use (& I've used a lot of grease over the years). I called the tech back to see if he could give me a brand name, but he said the factory got their moly grease in big drums - had no idea what brand to look for using in a grease gun.

Anyone have a suggestion? I'm sure it's been a long, long time since anyone added grease. Thanks!

 

[psneeld]

Auto Zone and plenty more .....

https://www.autozone.com/greases-an...rd-multi-purpose-grease-tube-14-1oz/54186_0_0

 

[FBoykin]

Thanks for the tip! Looks like just what I need. Appreciate the referral.

Auto Zone and plenty more .....

https://www.autozone.com/greases-an...rd-multi-purpose-grease-tube-14-1oz/54186_0_0

 

[Seevee]

FWIW, Glendinning support is superb! Just give them a call and they'll do a great job of helping.