Blue Seas ACR

[dhmeissner]

So I now have 2 4D batteries that power everything. I intend to add a group31 start battery. To simplify and modernize things I'm thinking of this:

ML-ACR Automatic Charging Relay with Manual Control - 12V DC 500A - Blue Sea Systems

Sound like a good idea?

[Billylll]

Originally Posted by dhmeissner

So I now have 2 4D batteries that power everything. I intend to add a group31 start battery. To simplify and modernize things I'm thinking of this:

ML-ACR Automatic Charging Relay with Manual Control - 12V DC 500A - Blue Sea Systems

Sound like a good idea?

I have been using 2 high current Bluesea ACRs and the remote off//auto/on (forced) for about 6 seasons in my Mainship. They have performed flawlessly. I will be innstalling a single ACR in my Gulfstar upgrade.
Bill

[dhmeissner]

Good to know Bill, thanks.

[DavidM]

Yes, but consider a cheaper alternative: www.yandina.com. Buy direct or from Defender.

David

[Billylll]

You will never ever be able to use the Yanida to emergency start parallel like the BlueSea 500 amp model.
Bill

[HopCar]

Dave, I did the same thing. I had two 4Ds that I combined into one house bank and added a Group 31 as a starter battery. I used a Blue Sea Add a Battery kit.
That was about eight months ago. So far, so good.

[Billylll]

That's the 120 amp version from BlueSea. It is a good combination with the high current battery switch.
Bill

[bobc]

I have two 8D's and a separate starter battery with the Blue Sea ACR. I also have the remote switch. It's worked great for 3 years now, at least in keeping everything charged from the alternator, or the inverter/charger. I've never needed to use the house bank for starting, though it's nice to know that I could.

[dhmeissner]

Thanks guys, I will be going the Blue Seas Route.

[knuckelbuster]

I just completed the installation of the Blue Sea IS-ACR last week and I am very satisfied with the performance. Install is very straight forward. If you install the remote LED for you dash monitering, remember that the LED is polarity sensitive.

Good luck!

[knuckelbuster]

Not sure the image made it to the board.

[FF]

Reading the promo stuff it seems one could add a house bank to an almost dead start batt , but NOT start from the house bank.

Could be wrong , but a std hi quality rotary switch would seem far more versatile.

Nice for joining batts to a running engine , but the std RV solenoids do it for $18.00 for each 75A of charge.

I use commercial alts , and even I cant create a 500A charge.

[Billylll]

Originally Posted by FF

Reading the promo stuff it seems one could add a house bank to an almost dead start batt , but NOT start from the house bank.

Could be wrong , but a std hi quality rotary switch would seem far more versatile.

Nice for joining batts to a running engine , but the std RV solenoids do it for $18.00 for each 75A of charge.

I use commercial alts , and even I cant create a 500A charge.

I can tell you 1st hand I have started my primary 420hp motors in my Mainship from the house bank using the 500 amp model (not the unit in the picture above) with no damage to the unit.
Knucklebuster, LED's (stand alone not fixtures) are always polarity sensitive (they are a light emitting diode).
Bill