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Old 01-31-2021, 11:13 AM   #81
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Originally Posted by TWedd View Post
Lots of good info on this thread! I am starting a project to replace/upgrade my house bank. I have just about finished tracing out my existing wiring, and am trying to figure out the best way to wire/install my new house bank. Is there a single source for this info laid out in a easy to read format. I seem to remember Nigel Calders name mentioned, any suggestions?

I recommend parallel
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Old 01-31-2021, 07:34 PM   #82
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Nigel Calder

My wife gave me the 4th edition a few years ago. I am still learning and still rereading. Want to be safe and improve. Planning to go LiFePo4 system. Have installed solar and redesigned the house bank system, charging, and monitoring. One trickle charger, 2 Inverter chargers, work still IP, needs grounds on units.
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Old 01-31-2021, 08:44 PM   #83
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What happened to DHeckrotte?
Don't believe everything that you think.
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Old 01-31-2021, 09:53 PM   #84
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What ever you do, the alternators must be connected to a battery (a load) at all time otherwise they get damaged.
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Old 02-03-2021, 07:09 AM   #85
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Originally Posted by dhays View Post
I don't even understand what that means. Can anyone translate?
It means that if your bank exceeds the CCA or Ah specification you'll need to default to the manufacturers "short circuit rating". Not too many even publish this rating. Odyssey does and each G-31 battery has 5000A of short circuit current. A 400Ah bank of four, in parallel, would be 20,000A..

If you can't find a short circuit rating, then you need to default to a Class-T fuse which is has a 20,000A interrupt at 125V. The Class-T AIC rating will be much higher at 14V. Class-T is the only fuse recommended for LiFePO4...
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Old 02-03-2021, 10:36 AM   #86
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Originally Posted by Ex Sailor View Post
A great battery diagram that makes sense ( to me ) thanks for sharing.

I see a lot of reference to " battery isolators - combiners etc " here. I would be skeptical of any diode based device as I think there would be a forward voltage drop. + / - 1 V maybe more, depending on the quality of the diodes, unless they are Schottky diodes which are quite expensive at alrge currents. Frank B.
If your alt or external regulator has a sense wire, you can eliminate the diode voltage drop by connecting the sense to the down stream side of the diode. The alt will then put out 15v to get 14v. But running alt B+ direct to the house through a fuse with a combiner or ACR to charge the start is better and doesn't matter what kind of alt you have.
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