Battery Conundrum

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Since you are in the area, thought this might be helpful. Battery Systems in Seattle has the King County contract for the motorpool. They have the Odyssey PC2150 AGM's that are either 1 or 2 years old. If you go in, you can usually get them for about $100 apiece ($400 brand new).
I now have 8 of them in my boat. Even through one in the tender when that one needed changing this year. Been great for me...


Thanks,
I will certainly explore this further soon. Currently in Ashland, packing escape bags and boxes. Visibility today, 1/4 mile.
 
Be careful with all the fires there!


Lucky, so far. We live on the south end of town; fire started at the north end and was driven by 40 knot winds down the valley and through the next two communities.


But tomorrow is another day...
 
9 years on battery banks is as good as you could expect, particularly if you don’t have a means of keeping them charged when at anchor. It’s time to replace them.

Quite frankly, I don’t see the need for a jumper pack. I’d direct your efforts towards optimizing the design of a new battery configuration and paying attention to battery health.

There were comments earlier like 12.3 volts is essentially a dead battery. It’s not necessarily, as voltages will drop somewhat depending on the size of the real-time loads.

My thoughts.

1) Your starter bank should be fully isolated from the house bank. Ensure this is so. This bank should be sized sufficient to start both engines. I see no need for a separate battery for each engine. Nor do I see the need for an 8D. I have 2 Group 24s in parallel for my Lehman 135. More than sufficient. A Group 31 would also be fine.

2) seriously consider a solar bank in the absence of a generator. Properly sized, it may even get you up to float charge after travel.

3) optimize the size your new house bank based on understanding the daily total amp hours used. Ideally your house bank should be twice the size of 2 days amp hours of usage, if you would want to be at anchor for 2 days.

4) check all connections, replace older cabling, and review whether the current cabling is optimized for charging and discharge.

5) review CMS’s site. Really good stuff here:
https://marinehowto.com

6) bring in an electrician to review what you intend to do, or actually do the work.

7) I am always reviewing the Magnum panel throughout the day. Over the years with the same bank, I have a pretty good idea how it is aging. I now have 7 summers of cruising on it, with pretty extensive usage. The voltages are beginning to get lower before mornings charging and are consuming more and more water. I will replace the batteries before next years cruising season.

Jim
:thumb:

AP:

I share Jim's view on all of the points in his post.

Load management is another key item. What do you have for a fridge? If not already a DC only unit, change that out. It will do the most towards getting your power budget down.

My boat came to me with: a 1/2/both, 2 banks, a pair of 8D, a pair of 4d, and a separate start 4D, an AC/DC fridge, a ferro resonant 50 amp charger and a genset.
I now have: disconnected 1/2/b, 1 bank of 4x6v FLA GC, 1x4Dstart, a DC only fridge, Xantrex MS2000 inverter/charger, genset and solar.
My last battery replacement was after 10 yrs house, 11yrs start. My summer at anchor, with a DC freezer added, never saw a morning with less than 12.4v showing on the Xantrex monitor. During the day, I often see 13.5v on the monitor, on a very bright day I have seen 14.5v, since the solar went in. I have no doubt my battery life will be equally good this time around. My generator usage this season has been solely for making hot water. All of my charging needs are met with solar.

Good luck with your re-design of your electrical system.
 
Back
Top Bottom