Anyone changed out analog volt and amp meters to Digital?

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Ocean Alexander 38'
I'm not sure if this has been covered, ran it through the search function and got nothing.
The existing amp meters at the panel, both AC and DC are scaled so it is hard to see much differentiation, a change in a couple amps is hard to identify.

Ideally I'd like to find meters to fit the existing openings, that may be a challenge. Looking for anyone that may have done this, advice, etc. Thanks
 
I'm not sure if this has been covered, ran it through the search function and got nothing.
The existing amp meters at the panel, both AC and DC are scaled so it is hard to see much differentiation, a change in a couple amps is hard to identify.

Ideally I'd like to find meters to fit the existing openings, that may be a challenge. Looking for anyone that may have done this, advice, etc. Thanks

I changed out my old meters for some GREAT Blue Seas meters that are made to fit the old holes. Check them out!

https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/6/112/Meters/OLED_Digital_Monitors

Ken
 
I have a satellite dash panel that I have installed bilge counters and digital volt and amp meters for shore AC. My DC volts and Amps is already on my inverter remote panel. I just ordered some very inexpensive meters off of ebay as an experiment. So far I have found no reason to replace them. I am now going to install a set to monitor the Generator. Yes, I could have gotten by with one set that picks up after the Shore/Gen switch but at 6$ a meter I wanted to have some fun filling up the panel.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/265028141442?var=564878657416

I should mention that I have both a L1 and a L2, so I need a meter for each leg.
 
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Changed mine out several years ago. Before and after shots below. Can monitor both power inputs on one, and 4 battery banks on the other.
 

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I'm not sure if this has been covered, ran it through the search function and got nothing.

The existing amp meters at the panel, both AC and DC are scaled so it is hard to see much differentiation, a change in a couple amps is hard to identify.



Ideally I'd like to find meters to fit the existing openings, that may be a challenge. Looking for anyone that may have done this, advice, etc. Thanks
My panel had one Blue Sea analog ammeter scaled to 100 amps and another scaled to 50 amps. Drove me crazy trying to get a quick read. I simply replaced the 100 with a 50-amp model. Took twenty minutes. The boat has 50-amp service so the gauges are now an easy read.
 
i love the blue seas m2 line of meters and have one of the 4 channel temp panels on order. problem is everything is on backorder, no idea when they'll ship.
i didn't have time to wait when doing my shore power replacement project so i went to amazon for help. there's a ton of digital meters available now so i put combo volt/amp meters on each shore power input and a volt/hertz meter on the genset output. they're plenty accurate enough, (within a tenth of an amp compared to my fluke meter) and easy to read from across the saloon.
as has been mentioned, there are plenty of options, some to fit exiting gauge sizes, some 22mm panel size, some like these, as well as the bigger blue seas units.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XXBDCY9?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XNPWH96?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
 
Ideally I'd like to find meters to fit the existing openings, that may be a challenge. Looking for anyone that may have done this, advice, etc. Thanks
The Balmar SG200 SOC meter fits in a 2&1/16th hole. It will tell you, SOC, volts, amps (in & out) time to go & SOH. (State of Health) All with a 1 button scroll!
 

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Changing gauges at times the old mount hole is a bit larger than the new gauge.


A piece of #10 wire wrapped around the new gauge can be an invisible cure.
 
Changing meters can have issues, not only making them fit in the existing holes:

For voltmeters, it is pretty simple- you just wire them to the existing voltage wires. Wherever it is measuring (and it does matter sometimes) it will stay the same.

Ammeters, sometimes have shunts that sense the amperage. Their advantage is that they can be placed anywhere and only run light gauge sense lines from the shunt to the meter. Usually, you want the shunt on the cable that carries ALL of the battery current, often a negative cable.

Other ammeters wire the current carrying cable directly to the meter and back. They often are only measuring the current to the panel which probably misses big users like inverters, bow thrusters, etc. These are usually limited to 30 amps, otherwise the wire gauge gets too big.

So I would look for a shunt based ammeter and find the best place to measure the current. Blue Seas is a great source as noted above.

David
 
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