Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 08-28-2021, 01:25 PM   #21
Member
 
City: Wilmington
Vessel Name: Belafonte
Vessel Model: Monk 36
Join Date: Jun 2021
Posts: 12
Aligator clamp is a great idea. It's in a pretty tight area with limited access, it would be hard to tap strait the more I think about it.

I'll give it a go though and use the alligator as a backup and fix properly down the road.

Thanks for the idea!
BrandenS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-28-2021, 02:07 PM   #22
TF Site Team
 
Comodave's Avatar
 
City: Au Gres, MI
Vessel Name: Black Dog
Vessel Model: Formula 41PC
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 15,418
I would just replace the bolt with allthread. Then you can use the double nuts to secure the bonding wire.
__________________
Boat Nut:
If you are one there is no explanation necessary.
If you arenít one, there is no explanation possible.
Comodave is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2021, 06:32 PM   #23
Member
 
City: Wilmington
Vessel Name: Belafonte
Vessel Model: Monk 36
Join Date: Jun 2021
Posts: 12
@CharlieJ #20:
Charlie, any tips on getting a good connection to my through-hulls that don't have studs on them, which unfortunately is most of them?

The previous method I'm seeing on the boat was to just rest a bolt going through the ring terminals onto the through-hull housing. Do you know if I can remove the bolt holding the seacock ball valve handle and attach to that and re-bolt? I'm afraid to take that bolt off while the boats in the water.
BrandenS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2021, 06:41 PM   #24
Guru
 
diver dave's Avatar
 
City: Palm Coast, FL
Vessel Name: Coquina
Vessel Model: Lagoon 380
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 2,354
Anodes and Bonding

Water pipe clamps Ive used. Get the all bronze variety.
Or, drill and tap the flange for a 1/4x 20 SiBr machine screw.
diver dave is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2021, 07:11 PM   #25
TF Site Team
 
Comodave's Avatar
 
City: Au Gres, MI
Vessel Name: Black Dog
Vessel Model: Formula 41PC
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 15,418
Have you looked closely at the base of the through hull to make sure they aren’t tapped for a screw. Our last boat had the bases tapped for maybe a #6 machine screw that was pretty short. Maybe they got painted over by a PO. I had to clean out a couple on that boat in order to rework the bonding system. I don’t think I would consider the shutoff handle a good connection but maybe ohm it out to see.
__________________
Boat Nut:
If you are one there is no explanation necessary.
If you arenít one, there is no explanation possible.
Comodave is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2021, 07:23 PM   #26
Member
 
City: Wilmington
Vessel Name: Belafonte
Vessel Model: Monk 36
Join Date: Jun 2021
Posts: 12
Good ideas, thanks.
BrandenS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2021, 07:24 PM   #27
Guru
 
diver dave's Avatar
 
City: Palm Coast, FL
Vessel Name: Coquina
Vessel Model: Lagoon 380
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 2,354
Anodes and Bonding

My last boat sat in hot salt water for 10 years and had shaft brushes and bonded u/w bronze and a single divers dream zinc. Alls well

Next boat is now 15 years sitting in hot salt water with lots of unbonded bronze and even aluminum and alls still well. Sooo, I have no opinion on bonding for metal protection.
If the conversion moves to lightning protection or ssb grounding, the story gets more complicated.
diver dave is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2021, 07:51 PM   #28
Guru
 
foggysail's Avatar
 
City: Ashland, MA
Vessel Model: 1990 Silverton 40 aftcabin
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 1,205
Quote:
Originally Posted by diver dave View Post
My last boat sat in hot salt water for 10 years and had shaft brushes and bonded u/w bronze and a single divers dream zinc. Alls well

Next boat is now 15 years sitting in hot salt water with lots of unbonded bronze and even aluminum and alls still well. Sooo, I have no opinion on bonding for metal protection.
If the conversion moves to lightning protection or ssb grounding, the story gets more complicated.


Yes. and my self made shaft brushes are working fine also and in salt water of course.
foggysail is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2021, 06:34 AM   #29
Member
 
City: Wilmington
Vessel Name: Belafonte
Vessel Model: Monk 36
Join Date: Jun 2021
Posts: 12
I don't know man. I've done and seen some pretty compelling experiments with creating galvanic cells in tubs of sea water. Even without introducing stray current I've seen the results of connecting zincs to underwater metals. Introducing current I've seen nails disappear in hours. With the rats nest of wiring going through my engine room I'd rather play it safe.

Branden S


Quote:
Originally Posted by diver dave View Post
My last boat sat in hot salt water for 10 years and had shaft brushes and bonded u/w bronze and a single divers dream zinc. Alls well

Next boat is now 15 years sitting in hot salt water with lots of unbonded bronze and even aluminum and alls still well. Sooo, I have no opinion on bonding for metal protection.
If the conversion moves to lightning protection or ssb grounding, the story gets more complicated.
BrandenS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2021, 07:43 AM   #30
Guru
 
catalinajack's Avatar
 
City: Edgewater, MD
Vessel Name: Catalina Jack
Vessel Model: Defever 44
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 3,091
Quote:
Originally Posted by BrandenS View Post
I don't know man. I've done and seen some pretty compelling experiments with creating galvanic cells in tubs of sea water. Even without introducing stray current I've seen the results of connecting zincs to underwater metals. Introducing current I've seen nails disappear in hours. With the rats nest of wiring going through my engine room I'd rather play it safe.



Branden S
I know of a case where a guy who left his boat equipped with an outdrive (aluminum housing) in the water over the winter who came back to no outdrive in the spring. The case went away and the guts sunk to the bottom.
catalinajack is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2021, 09:51 PM   #31
Senior Member
 
City: St. Petersburg
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 309
@BrandonS #23
The fundamental “rule” is that each connection must have a resistance < 1.0 ohm because, with sacrificial anodes, the maximum voltage available is about 1.0VDC. Wrapping wire around a seacock and holding it in place with a hose clamp is pretty ineffective.
If there are no pre drilled and tapped hole in the sea cock flanges, recommend installing them. I would recommend installing a #10 NF thread hole in each seacock flanges. Crimp an uninsulated ring terminal on the AWG 8 bonding wire, then solder and heat shrink the connection. Connect the bonding wires to the seacocks and spray the connection with CRC HD Corrosion Block. Don’t daisy chain between underwater metal components. Make a connection to the transom anode (recommend aluminum) and you are good to go.
__________________
Charlie Johnson
ABYC Master Technician
CharlieJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Trawler Port Captains
Port Captains are TF volunteers who can serve as local guides or assist with local arrangements and information. Search below to locate Port Captains near your destination. To learn more about this program read here: TF Port Captain Program





All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:10 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2006 - 2012