50amp to split 30amp cords?

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mncruiser

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Phoenix
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Mainship 390
Isn’t this a real bad idea? (Pic is more descriptive…50amp to 2 -30 amp connector cords)
IMG_1800.jpg
 
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It depends on the wire size in the 30 amp portion. If they are sized for 50 amps then it would probably be ok. But remember that the 50 amp plug on the adapter is fed by a 50 amp breaker. So if the wire is 10 gauge then the 50 amp breaker is way oversized for the wire. You don’t have 30 amp protection until it gets onboard. So the wire could, possibly, melt before the 30 amp breakers. Is it likely, probably not but why have breakers if you hook undersized wires to them? Also if you hook 30 amp 50’ cables to the adapter the 30 amp cables are not properly protected.
 
There are adapters made specifically for this purpose. I have one and have used it in the past. Plug it into 240 - 50 amp shore power and it splits into 2 x 120 - 30 amp that goes into my boat. Pretty expensive adapters, last I looked they are north of $500.
Don’t ask me how they work, they just do.
 
Maybe they have over current protection in them.
 
What makes this a bad idea? We do not know what standards this cord was built to. We have no one to go after if the cord has a manufacturing flaw. I highly doubt this cord will work with the new dock pedestal standards.
 
Marino sells a duplicate of what is offered and it works fine fior me ( and many others) at a brand new marina elec system that was built to the new codes.
In my experience, it does work. Marino # 153AY
https://nomadicsupply.com/product/m...iMEmXprdPKFJDMnTA6DeB3kX9b2IrR0hoCP78QAvD_BwE

The boat is protected by the onboard 30A breakers at the inlets.
The only portion that is not protected is the 30A cord between the adapter and the boat inlet. The only case where there could be a problem is if the cord has a short between the pedestal and boat and draws between 30A and 50A... anything less is handled by the cordset and anything exceeding 50A trips the pedestal.
IMO corrosion on inlet /cord terminals are a much more common and significant hazard than this adapter.
If anyone still feels insecure use the adapter at the 2 30A boat inlets and use a single 50A 240V corset to connect to the pedestal... now all conductors are adequate and protection is located adjacent to the connections.
 
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I see this regularly, but it's not a great idea. As Bacchus points out, it's rarely a problem in the real world. But it does leave an unprotected section of cable between the adapter and the boat (including the legs of the adapter if it's placed right at the boat inlets).

Personally, I don't know why someone doesn't make an adapter like this with breakers built in to protect the 30A output legs. I'd probably make my own with some cable, plugs, and a small waterproof breaker box if I needed one.
 
I see this regularly, but it's not a great idea. As Bacchus points out, it's rarely a problem in the real world. But it does leave an unprotected section of cable between the adapter and the boat (including the legs of the adapter if it's placed right at the boat inlets).

Personally, I don't know why someone doesn't make an adapter like this with breakers built in to protect the 30A output legs. I'd probably make my own with some cable, plugs, and a small waterproof breaker box if I needed one.

I agree on the fused adapter. Same for a 30 amp to 15 amp cord very commonly used by boat owners when working on their boats at marinas.
 
I agree on the fused adapter. Same for a 30 amp to 15 amp cord very commonly used by boat owners when working on their boats at marinas.


The 15 / 30 often goes the other way (connecting a 30 amp cord to a 15 amp shore plug), so that one is inherently safe (the shore plug is rated for and fused for less amperage than the cord, so the cord is protected).
 
The 15 / 30 often goes the other way (connecting a 30 amp cord to a 15 amp shore plug), so that one is inherently safe (the shore plug is rated for and fused for less amperage than the cord, so the cord is protected).

I see many cords that are just the opposite. 30 amp male plug, plugged into a pedestal, connected to a 15 amp cord with 15 amp sockets. They are used to power tools, vacuums, and the like. Have done it myself. You suddenly realize that with a 15 amp shock you have a chance, with a 30 amp shock your odds are slim.
 
What is a 15A vs 30A shock?

Shock of blowing a CB?

Believe 115V shocks are lethal in milliamps.

Should be using a GFI on the outdoor extension cord or if plugged into a 30A on a dock, many now have ground fault protection against shock.
 
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I see this regularly, but it's not a great idea. As Bacchus points out, it's rarely a problem in the real world. But it does leave an unprotected section of cable between the adapter and the boat (including the legs of the adapter if it's placed right at the boat inlets).

Personally, I don't know why someone doesn't make an adapter like this with breakers built in to protect the 30A output legs. I'd probably make my own with some cable, plugs, and a small waterproof breaker box if I needed one.
Or just use 6 GA wire for the 2 short 30A legs... then they handle 50A w no issues and the breaker just trips.
I will bet $ that if the 30A is exceeded on the std adapter the breaker will trip long before the cord melts... remember it has to be 30A>50A and I'd like to see anyone demonstrate a short that exceeds 30A but doesn't exceed 50A.
 
What is a 15A vs 30A shock?

Shock of blowing a CB?

Believe 115V shocks are lethal in milliamps.

Should be using a GFI on the outdoor extension cord or if plugged into a 30A on a dock, many now have ground fault protection against shock.
Exactly!
 
Or just use 6 GA wire for the 2 short 30A legs... then they handle 50A w no issues and the breaker just trips.
I will bet $ that if the 30A is exceeded on the std adapter the breaker will trip long before the cord melts... remember it has to be 30A>50A and I'd like to see anyone demonstrate a short that exceeds 30A but doesn't exceed 50A.

Common sense disallowed by the fear mongering police here......

Overruled..... :censored:
 
Have been using the marinco device for many years without issue. Sometimes both 30s are full and only a 50 is left available. Sometimes on fairly shaky pedestals. If I was going to blow more boat bucks would replace current cords with Smart plugs. Think that end is a risk I can modify.
 
What is a 15A vs 30A shock?

Shock of blowing a CB?

Believe 115V shocks are lethal in milliamps.

Should be using a GFI on the outdoor extension cord or if plugged into a 30A on a dock, many now have ground fault protection against shock.

It depends on the situation. I have been shocked many times working on 120 and even once with 300. It certainly got my attention with the 300, I thought my eyeballs were going to pop out of my head. It depends on the current path, but in the water 60 mAmps can lockup your muscles and cause Electro Shock Drowning.
 
Two types of shock with two different causes of injury.
Macro shock. Direct tissue injury and even thermal burning.
Micro shock. Dysordering of cellular communication leading to cardiac injury via conduction system, neurologic injury both peripheral and central.
Mixed
All three can kill you.
Work done and energy contained is amps x volts x time. Hit the right combination macro shock.
You need just enough to depolarize neurons and cells long enough through a path containing critical portions of your body and you get micro shock dysfunction and possible death or injury.
Need to think about path, strength and duration to understand electrical injuries.
Hence paddles don’t kill nor does electroshock therapy. Critical paths but not all three operative. Similarly tasers fail to have all three.
 
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