150 amp circuit breaker/switch for windlass

[BrianG]

My Ideal CWM is supposed to use a 150 amp circuit breaker. 12v obviously. Most circuit breakers say "don't use as a switch if large inrush expected". That's exactly what I want, to use it double duty as a Breaker and ON-OFF switch-- Especially an idiot light to remind me to keep it off. Any suggestions where to find? Plenty of these out there https://www.wholesalemarine.com/blue-sea-285-series-surface-mount-circuit-breaker/

gracias.

 

[mvweebles]

My Ideal CWM is supposed to use a 150 amp circuit breaker. 12v obviously. Most circuit breakers say "don't use as a switch if large inrush expected". That's exactly what I want, to use it double duty as a Breaker and ON-OFF switch-- Especially an idiot light to remind me to keep it off. Any suggestions where to find? Plenty of these out there https://www.wholesalemarine.com/blue-sea-285-series-surface-mount-circuit-breaker/

gracias.

I'm in the process of rewiring my 1970 Willard 36 including a new main panel. Old panel had three 50a breakers ganged together for windlass, including 2/0 cable run to panel, a huge waste and bulky. I am installing a surface mount BSS 150a breaker - same as your link - inline between battery and windlass. Also inline is a simple switched solenoid which is powered off a 5A circuit breaker on the panel. This shortens the cable run significantly and cleans-up back side of panel.

Regardless, the BSS breaker will almost never be used under load so the warning is not relevant. Though if it trips, you may have trouble resetting.

I was once told by a credible source that in general, breakers should not be used as switches though I forget the reasoning. Probably makes sense to have panel switches behind the remote breakers, though I have rarely seen it done except for lighting and ventilation/fans for convenience, or items with intermittent usage such as manually switched shower sumps.

 

[BrianG]

I'm in the process of rewiring my 1970 Willard 36 including a new main panel. Old panel had three 50a breakers ganged together for windlass, including 2/0 cable run to panel, a huge waste and bulky. I am installing a surface mount BSS 150a breaker - same as your link - inline between battery and windlass. Also inline is a simple switched solenoid which is powered off a 5A circuit breaker on the panel. This shortens the cable run significantly and cleans-up back side of panel.

Regardless, the BSS breaker will almost never be used under load so the warning is not relevant. Though if it trips, you may have trouble resetting.

I was once told by a credible source that in general, breakers should not be used as switches though I forget the reasoning. Probably makes sense to have panel switches behind the remote breakers, though I have rarely seen it done except for lighting and ventilation/fans for convenience, or items with intermittent usage such as manually switched shower sumps.

So the 5a panel breaker is how you'll de energize the windlass? There has to be a swith of some type otherwise people would constantly step on the deck switch and trigger the windlass.

 

[BrianG]

I'm in the process of rewiring my 1970 Willard 36 including a new main panel..

My dock neighbor just got a 1973 Willard 30' Vega. He already dumped the faux smoke stack. great boat though.

 

[mvweebles]

So the 5a panel breaker is how you'll de energize the windlass? There has to be a swith of some type otherwise people would constantly step on the deck switch and trigger the windlass.

Your foot switch is one of two types: It either carries the full load, meaning there are heavy cables attached to it (uncommon these days). Or it has small wires that go to a solenoid - just like a starter solenoid.

If your foot switch is a full-load switch, you can install another solenoid in the positive battery cable. You can then run a #12 wire to the panel to excite the solenoid when desired to energize the circuit. These solenoids are pretty cheap - $15 or so.

If your foot switch goes to an existing solenoid (meaning there are small wires connecting it versus heavy battery cables), you can interrupt the positive side by running #12 or so to your panel switch (or small breaker). You can purchase panel switches with indicator lights, but you will need to ground it too for the light to work.

In either case, the surface-mount Blue Seas circuit breaker is mounted somewhere in the positive cable run before the above referenced solenoids (allows you to more easily service/replace the solenoids), and in a dry and convenient place.

Willard 30 Voyager model (sort of a pilothouse model with full-width salon) was the only one with a false stack. I sort of liked the way it looked on that boat. If you bump into him, mention "Willard Boat Owners Group" on io.groups. I've been the moderator for over 20-years and we have a ton of good information and files.

Good luck -

Peter

 

[psneeld]

My Ideal CWM is supposed to use a 150 amp circuit breaker. 12v obviously. Most circuit breakers say "don't use as a switch if large inrush expected". That's exactly what I want, to use it double duty as a Breaker and ON-OFF switch-- Especially an idiot light to remind me to keep it off. Any suggestions where to find? Plenty of these out there https://www.wholesalemarine.com/blue-sea-285-series-surface-mount-circuit-breaker/

gracias.

I would just use this kind of breaker.

You should not have an inrush if you aren't operating the windlass while switching on and off.

 

[C lectric]

YOu can use that breaker as a switch to prevent the windlass motor from running when you don't want it to do so. As long as the C.B. is turned off ONLY when the windlass is NOT operating it won't bother the breaker.

Motors store a lot of energy, magnetic, and when that circuit is broken while running under load there is a large reverse voltage much higher than the initial operating voltage which can burn contacts ruining them.

The warning is meant to tell you to not use the breaker as a switch when the windlass is operating under load. The breaker is meant to be a protection against a short circuit in which case who cares if it won't work later as long as it does that job, protection in case of a short circuit..


Just do not use it as a switch when the motor is operating.

 

[mvweebles]

BTW - nice boat. Built on a Monterrey Clipper, correct?

I may have misunderstood. Mounting the BSS 150A breaker in a panel or other convenient location means extending the battery cables. My guidance to use a solenoid was to run a straight shot of cable interrupted by only the soleniod which keeps the current at peak due to short run. But if that's not needed, than running the breaker solo is fine. Run an idiot light on the windlass side to notify of powered-up condition.

 

[BrianG]

BTW - nice boat. Built on a Monterrey Clipper, correct?

I may have misunderstood. Mounting the BSS 150A breaker in a panel or other convenient location means extending the battery cables. My guidance to use a solenoid was to run a straight shot of cable interrupted by only the soleniod which keeps the current at peak due to short run. But if that's not needed, than running the breaker solo is fine. Run an idiot light on the windlass side to notify of powered-up condition.

Yes, she was built in 1996 with lines pulled from a 1903 Monterey called
"The Buffalo". Composite hull --Port Orford Cedar with System 3 and glass.