Single Handing Alaska to Mexico

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About halfway between Pt Conception and Ensenada. This boat is about 1/2 nm off the shoteline in flat water this evening. . 20220908_174059.jpg
 
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Spent the night anchored in San Simeon Bay,


Don't suppose you took the time to visit the Hearst Family tasting room on the beach. One should allow time to "smell the roses.: :flowers:
 
With no boat harbor, getting onto the beach is problematic through the surf. I have seen many places I would have liked to have gone ashore, but my dingy is deflated until I arrive in Mexico and I have no place to carry it inflated. I usually use an inflatable paddle board to get to the beach in remote locations, but if I left it unattended it would probably disappear...

Santa Barbara harbor is undoubtedly the nicest marina I have ever been in, security is very good, everything is clean and bright and perfectly maintained. No sea lions! I don't know how they manage that, but they have. It is a little more expensive at about $1.50 a foot for a slip, but well worth it. On the downside there is not a good grocery store within walking distance but several small markets and a liquor store nearby.

The hurricane South of me has roiled the waters and some weather is blowing through, so I am staying put for a few days. My insurance for Mexico hasn't been finalized yet so I am lingering while the process goes forward. It's pleasure watching the young workers maintain other peoples boats, California girls still do exist!

I am of the impression most of the boats in the harbor are little used, but well cared for. It seems many use them just to have a place to hang out and find perhaps a little cooler weather than where they live. I am grateful to be near the coast and on the water, as I hear it's really hot inland, which is easy to believe given the weather here.

Three travel days from Mexico...
 
The Channel Islands will get hit fairly hard today and tomorrow with the predicted 30 Kn plus predicted winds as Kay makes her way north. We are back in a slip as well.
 
The rain has stopped in La Paz and it's back to it's normal sunny warm weather.

Now it's you folks to the north's turn at a little wet weather!
 
AKDoug, there is a Ralph’s grocery store just 15 blocks from you. Ralph’s is also know as Kroger in the rest of the world. Admittedly, 15 blocks is not a short walk but there is a lot to see along the way. Not to mentioned a whole lot of wine and beer tasting just 5 blocks away in the fun zone. You can always Uber home with your groceries.
 
I am comfortably ensconced in San Diego, TF member Jim Johnson has provided me with moorage and to top it off a car to drive while here. My water maker quality of product has fallen off and I am having the membrane replaced while here, today I should pick it back up and reinstall it. Prompt service by very knowledgable guys, for a very reasonable price, especially given the tools to do it myself would cost more than their service.

I have insurance for Mexico, and a tentative reservation in Ensenada. I believe the weather will force me to depart San Diego a day early to hit the window, in the dark as the weather seems to come up in Ensenada by mid afternoon daily in my forecast.

Making a run today to a dive shop for a 50' hose for my regulator, self service for cleaning my hull regularly while down South. I have two scuba cylinders on board and hope to be able to find a ready source to refill them when they are depleted. Grocery shopping tomorrow for those harder to locate name brand products I don't want to run short of during my six or eight months South of the border!
 
I am comfortably ensconced in San Diego, TF member Jim Johnson has provided me with moorage and to top it off a car to drive while here. My water maker quality of product has fallen off and I am having the membrane replaced while here, today I should pick it back up and reinstall it. Prompt service by very knowledgable guys, for a very reasonable price, especially given the tools to do it myself would cost more than their service.

I have insurance for Mexico, and a tentative reservation in Ensenada. I believe the weather will force me to depart San Diego a day early to hit the window, in the dark as the weather seems to come up in Ensenada by mid afternoon daily in my forecast.

Making a run today to a dive shop for a 50' hose for my regulator, self service for cleaning my hull regularly while down South. I have two scuba cylinders on board and hope to be able to find a ready source to refill them when they are depleted. Grocery shopping tomorrow for those harder to locate name brand products I don't want to run short of during my six or eight months South of the border!

Doug, Congratulations are in order! You made it over 5,000 KM from Alaska all by yourself!

We will be waiting on the dock with an ice cold margarita when you arrive in Ensenada!
 
And I am in Ensenada! I got a very early start from San Diego since I woke up early excited and knew I wasn't going to be able to go back to sleep :) Coffee, and underway at 3:30 in the dark. Leaving the bay I had a Customs and Border Enforcement vessel direct me to turn off my flood/spot bow light as it was apparently blinding him, so there was no looking for objects in the water but blind running after it was switched off.

An easy run down the coast, with a forecast for building winds by early afternoon South, which did happen, but by then I had turned the corner into Ensenada. Kevin met me at the dock with Vicky, and gave me a hand tying up, the health inspector was prompt in arriving and I am a resident of Hotel Coral Marina officially for the next two months.

The plan is to come and go, the slip assignment WAS for a port side tie on the upwind side of the dock, but I switched it to a stud side tie on the downwind side. If you single hand, that makes a lot of sense... Looking forward to doing some fishing and diving, and this morning I head off to Customs to do the final sign in's to be free to roam.

It's been an adventure, and it's not over by a long shot! I will keep you all appraised of what's going on as it takes place.
 
Congrats Doug!!!! Throw your parka in the trash and get shorts and flip flops!!
 
Doug,

It was a pleasure having you visit here in San Diego while you made some last minute repairs on your water maker, safe travels Chief look forward to following your adventures here on TF.

Fair Winds and Calm Seas Brother.
Jim
 
As Kevin noted in a previous post, I have successfully made the La Paz to San Diego run. I left La Paz on a Friday afternoon, running to San Jose del Cabo overnight for fuel and then continued on to Santa Maria outside Magdalena Bay in one long push. After a night of good sleep and a ribeye dinner I went on ahead and pushed to Turtle Bay, to join the herd of boats waiting for better weather to run North.

I spent a few days there watching the weather before pushing North to San Quintin in a bee line (ever watch a bee fly?) into 13-15 knots on the bow and 4-6’ seas. It wasn’t exactly comfortable but I still managed 6 knots over the bottom at my 7 knots rpm’s and left the sailboats trailing in my dust. It was a 30+ hour run to San Quintin. After hanging out for a couple of days I got an overnight window to Ensenada, 8’ swells with an 8 second period on the beam, very comfortable. I beat the forecast wind by a couple of hours into Ensenada and fueled up in Hotel Coral, finding a slip in the marina and assistance with clearing in and clearing out of Mexico.

I had run from San Jose del Cabo to Ensenada on a single tank of fuel (150 gallons) and still had 25 gallons in reserve upon arrival in Ensenada. Plan was/is to pass completely through California before taking on fuel again. Diesel in Ensenada was $4.50 a gallon, and I did some minor reprovisioning and waited for a weather window to San Diego to open. I left very early in the morning so as to hit the Customs dock in San Diego at a good time, and try to find a slip.

It turns out no will accept same day arrivals, but Jim Johnson, who provided me with a sip on my way down, again offered his assistance for my overnight stay. He has gone above and beyond being just friendly, to someone he only knows through this forum. I can’t thank him enough, he was a lifesaver for me!

In the morning I made the run (overnight) direct to Santa Barbara, since Catalina had a forecast for a very uncomfortable night at anchor and sleep probably wasn’t going to be in the cards anyway. So, here I am in Santa Barbara, waiting for the North winds to moderate. Next projected port is Monterey, but I have been here for a week and it looks like another week before I will be able to find good conditions for traveling.

There are worse places to be, good restaurants and services, inexpensive slip ($45 a night), and the nicest marina I have had the pleasure to stay in (due to toilets and showers on the floating docks). I have made all possible preparations and polished my shiny parts, it’s a great place to be able to walk to all the services you need.
 
Thanks so much for the update. Was wondering where you were.

Very impressive run for a 30-footer, even a HumVee like the Willard 30. Says more about the captain than the boat. Well done!

Waiting in Santa Barbara sure beats Cojo Anchorage (lee of Point Conception).

Peter
 
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Your Visit

Doug,

It was great to have you stop over again you will always have a place to tie-up here. Safe travels my friend look forward to reading more about your travels.

Regard's
Jim Johnson
 
After over two weeks stuck in Santa Barbara, a weather window has appeared to continue North early Wednesday morning that looks to be open for about three days. I hope to be able to make it to Fort Bragg, bypassing Monterey, Santa Cruz, and Bodega Bay in one long run up the coast.

The “red stuff” appears on Windy after that for a few days, and the bar crossings become a complicating factor in travel up the coast. Hopefully the patches of rough weather will become shorter in duration and the traveling weather become more common as we get closer to spring.

Crossing the Gulf of Alaska in early June has been pretty reliable for me, having made three crossings during that time of year�� I am still on track to be back in the Sound by early June, though the timelines are narrowing up a bit. This West Coast is the hard part, it gets easy after I hit the Inside Passages..
 
Good luck my friend, and we hope to see you back in the tropics on your next adventure!
 
Mostly using Windy, and local vhf broadcasts, which are tricky because I’m not familiar with the local point to point areas. I use NOAA forecasts as well, but Windy has actually been quite accurate within the capabilities of my boat.
 
Mostly using Windy, and local vhf broadcasts, which are tricky because I’m not familiar with the local point to point areas. I use NOAA forecasts as well, but Windy has actually been quite accurate within the capabilities of my boat.

Are you using Windy with the default ECMWF (aka European) weather model? The reason I ask is that Windy allows selection of various weather models including GFS, NAM, HRRR, etc. Windy, the app and website, is just a visualization tool for weather data.

Down here in the SoC, I also use Windy with the ECMWF model but have increasingly been using the HRRR model (from NOAA) as it seems to do a better job at the localized conditions so prevalent here. Some people like the GFS model (also from NOAA) but I have found it tends to underestimate conditions.
 
I have been using the ECM model, the HRRR model only gives me a two day forecast, the ECM model gives me about a week peek at their projection. Traveling as far as I am that’s not far enough ahead.
 
Well, I thoroughly enjoyed reading this thread. Well done Doug!
I am taking my CHB34 from SD to Ensenada next Monday.
conditions looks like 6ft swell and 10mph winds - Windy. What a fantastic weather app.
 
Currently passing Monterey Bay, heading straight across the San Francisco Bay entrance towards Bodega Bay or Fort Bragg for fuel and an oil change. In hindsight I should have topped off my 90 of a 150 gallons capacity in Santa Barbara and done a premature oil change (60 hours left on 150 interval). I was thinking port to port and getting locked down by weather, but the window keeps opening ahead of me and fuel and oil changes are coming due.

Left Santa Barbara at 2:00 AM yesterday, motoring steadily through moderate seas and less than 10 knots of wind to sometimes no wind and glassy seas with small swells. Attempting to make Eureka before the weather descends upon me for a few days again. 700 miles to the Inside Passage ��
 
Doug - Getting in to Fort Bragg fuel dock is shorter than Bodega. Toss-up on which place I'd rather be stuck in. Marina at Fort Bragg is too far to walk to town, but Uber would work. Assumes you have fuel to get to Fort Bragg. 60g to Eureka might be tight - I figure you had around 275nm when you wrote this last post. Eureka is a great stop - docks are right in town; and it's a charming town ---- right out of Central Casting.

I pulled some of the NOAA Surface Charts to see the underlying weather systems that drive the outputs on Windy. i'm sure Doug is way ahead of me, but thought I'd share some of my approach/strategy from 20-years ago when I was delivering along this coast. I'm a bit rusty on weather (this is practice for me, so forgive me if a bit off). For those unfamiliar with the coast, I've put purple stars at Seattle and San Francisco (SF). https://www.weather.gov/marine/ptreyes

In my opinion, there are two dominant weather items to watch along this coast: Pressure gradient between HI and LO pressure systems; and storms that clock-down from Gulf of Alaska (winter mostly but can easily influece swell for close to 1000nms). The H/L pressure systems move in an easterly direction, and tend to slow-down when they hit land. This creates a compression zone along the coast that extends out 100's of miles.

1. Yesterday and today's surface analysis charts. These charts endeavor to provide real-time conditions. They are an excellent learning tool if you're on the water as you can see what you thought you'd get compared to what you actually got . AKA 'School of Hard Knocks."

Pacific Coast Surf Analysis  1.jpg

A few items of note - first, these two charts are by two different NOAA forecasters, "Kells" on the right (yesterday) calls for a developing gale. I don't know why - 12-hours later, "Rowland" does not call it out. Second, the red dashed line with "L" along it is a low pressure trough line - note it's deepened from 1114mb to 1112mb over the 12-hours.

2. 24-hour and 48-hour Surface Chart forecast for today through early Saturday.

Pacific Coast Surf Analysis  2.jpg

Again, two different forecasters. The one on the right is the 48-hour forecast and was, by far, my most favored forecast because it frequently showed movement of the pressure systems. Note the arrow between the two "X" on the low pressure system off Washington - and note how far apart the iso-bars are along the coast meaning there is little wind. Also note there may still be wind from diurnal changes - often at daybreak/sun-up it can get pretty windy. But it's not from the compression zone.....a good thing.

3. 72-hour and 96-hour Surface Analysis (Sunday and Monday)

Pacific Coast Surf Analysis  3.jpg

72-hour/96-hour tends to be 'witch craft' zone for forecasting. That said, the low pressure trough has been really consistent for several days so it may be more accurate than normal. Forecast calls for a cold front passes through; and the Low Pressure trough has deepened to 1000mb creating more pressure gradient. There is also a strong system in the Gulf of Alaska that will spin junk down south. What happens on Sunday is a bit beyond me - the 1010mb low just off the WA coast could move west which may mean Doug could squeek by.

I really like the NOAA forecast products because they have a human being who interprets the data. The six charts above are the work of four different forecasters. Even in electronic format you can see some differences.

Bottom Line - It's 14:00PM PT Thursday as I write this. Given what I can [hopefully] deduce from the Surface Charts above, I'd plan to be settled somewhere by Saturday night - about 54 hours from now. Ballpark guess that Doug probably has around 240-250nms to Eureka, or 42-45 hours of running; plus 5-7 hours for fuel either in Bodega Bay or Fort Bragg. Neither is great to enter in the dark, though if I had to pick, would be Bodega Bay even though I've seen two boats miss the dog-leg turn, presumably due to fatigue. Also, I think the fuel dock at Bodega may be on-call/24-hours.

I'll be anxious to see if Doug makes it to Eureka. And I'll be anxious to see what changes, what mistakes I made.

Peter
 
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Your calculations are amazingly accurate, and my plan currently is Eureka in the morning Saturday and then hunker down for a couple of days. Fuel calculations are also right on, I work around 6 miles per gallon of fuel but I am actually doing better than that. That puts me in Eureka with a 10% reserve, which is slim but if I stop for two hours to fuel (in and back out plus fuel) my window narrows almost too much to avoid strong winds.

Your fuel, hours to run, and weather all match up with what I am seeing in the forecast. I stayed in Eureka on the island in the private harbor and that would be my first choice of where to hunker. Also took on fuel there so it’s comfortable territory for me.

Currently making 6.6 knots approaching Half Moon Bay about 8 miles off shore in calm seas and California coastal fog. 10% is less than my usual of 20% but the benefit of being where I want to be is large as the weather progresses through the week. By Tuesday it opens up again along the coast for a run to Newport ��
 
Doug - 6.6 kts seems pretty swift for your boat. I wonder if you're getting pushed a bit? There is supposed to be a "Davidson Current" (actually a southbound gyre) that also has a counter-current northbound counter-current component. Deep in the Windy menu is a "Currents" tab - it shows the southbound current, but I have no idea how accurate it is, but I do recall routinely being knocked a good 1/2 knot on northbound transits (7-1/4 kts instead of 7-3/4 kts). Keep an eye on your 4-hour average speed. Passing Fort Bragg will be a go/no-go. Fuel in Noyo is all the way up the river.

Of course, feel free to PM me if you want any collaboration.

Peter

PS - here Wikipedia on Davidson Current, more info than I ever had back in early 2000s.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/California_Current

Davidson Current.jpg
 
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I cruise at an honest 7 knots at 2650 rpm’s with my Yanmar 4JH, given no current to fight or assisting me. Less into the wind and short boats of course lose efficiency going up and down over the waves instead of punching through them. Coastal I see a gain and loss as the tide changes, usually it runs against me more than with me. Isn’t life always that way?

I project my speed made good over multiple hours, so apparently I am just as anal retentive as you are ��. I use InReach for messaging family and friends and so they can follow me as I travel, it provides a log of my distance and speed made good ��
 
I stopped in Bodega Bay in July 2021 when coming down the coast. It was definitely only open 6am-6pm then. Spent a few days waiting for weather in Eureka. Coldest I've ever been in July. High average temperature for July is 57F. Safe trip.
 
I remember cruising into Bodega Bay 30 years ago. The elephant seals on the rocks outside the channel were incredible to see. However the commercial fishermen there really creeped us out. Hopefully it’s a nicer place nowadays
 
I wound up bypassing Bodega in the dark, continued up past Fort Bragg after determining I had enough fuel to comfortably arrive in Eureka (into my reserve). The determining factor was that if I stopped for fuel I would miss the tide entering Humboldt Bay and there was no way I could make the time up enroute. My projection was to arrive near high slack on an incoming tide in the dark, which was accurate.

Having been in the Humboldt channel before I knew it was well marked and wide, at 05:00 AM I met no opposing traffic as I motored in through the heavy, wet, fog. It cleared off once inside the bay, and I successfully dodged the line of pot buoys on the approach to the channel as most were marked with reflectors and I was running my Rigid spot/flood light bar with no one to annoy with it.

It was an 80 hour run from Santa Barbara to Eureka, steady rpm’s at 2650, engine running like a well tuned sowing machine! I was 50 hours over on my oil change, but currently have 140 gallons of fresh fuel and new oil and filter changed out and ready for the next leg North to Newport. I also changed out the carbon filter on my r/o water maker (six months) and verified my last transmission oil change was in limits for maintenance.

I am not cooking tonight! Just took my second 3 hour nap of the day, the first when I came in too early for the fuel dock and anchored behind a channel marker in 26’ of water, the second in the Woodley Island Marina where I have an end tie. It looks like I am here until Tuesday, as there is a ten foot swell forecast for the bar until then, and good weather projected all the way North to Neah Bay.

Off to dinner, that’s the latest update!

Doug Nightingale
Melanie Rose
Willard PH 30
 
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