Crossing the Gulf of Alaska

[twistedtree]

We are about 12 hrs into a 48hr crossing of the Gulf of Alaska. We left Glacier bay this morning and are roughly 30 miles off shore from dry bay.

Even at 30 miles distance, the mountains are still completely visible. I can see one off in the distance that is probably Mt St Elias which is 18,000 feet.

Conditions are amazingly calm with a 1-2m swell on our port quarter. And less than 10 kts of wind. Because the conditions are so good, we are making a bee line (actually a great circle arc) across to the Hinchinbrook entrance. But depending on conditions when we reach Cape St Elias, we might run direct to Seward. Otherwise we will take a slower inside route.

About 20 miles towards shore is the Oosterdam cruise ship, poking along at 16 kts heading south. My guess is that tomorrow is their day in Glacier Bay and he is timing his arrival for tomorrow AM

 

[Al]

We are about 12 hrs into a 48hr crossing of the Gulf of Alaska. We left Glacier bay this morning and are roughly 30 miles off shore from dry bay.

Even at 30 miles distance, the mountains are still completely visible. I can see one off in the distance that is probably Mt St Elias which is 18,000 feet.

Conditions are amazingly calm with a 1-2m swell on our port quarter. And less than 10 kts of wind. Because the conditions are so good, we are making a bee line (actually a great circle arc) across to the Hinchinbrook entrance. But depending on conditions when we reach Cape St Elias, we might run direct to Seward. Otherwise we will take a slower inside route.

About 20 miles towards shore is the Oosterdam cruise ship, poking along at 16 kts heading south. My guess is that tomorrow is their day in Glacier Bay and he is timing his arrival for tomorrow AM

Hi Twistedtree- Ironic, You in a 60 footer out on the wide open ocean with 10 kt wind and mild seas, I on the other hand, on a 28 footer, sitting in Wrangell due to weather in Clarence Straits, of 25-30 kts, and 5-6 foot seas.
Wishing you a continued smooth voyage across. When are you tentitive coming back this way?

Al-Ketchikan

 

[Insequent]

TT
Enjoy it while you can, it won't last! But then, with no fixed itinerary or deadlines its surprising how often you can find yourself having a few great days on the water in remote places.

I'd say get to Seward ASAP and assist Kevin demolish some single malts!

 

[twistedtree]

TT
Enjoy it while you can, it won't last! But then, with no fixed itinerary or deadlines its surprising how often you can find yourself having a few great days on the water in remote places.

I'd say get to Seward ASAP and assist Kevin demolish some single malts!

We saw the conditions and decided we should just get moving to take advantage of it. At the moment it seems like it was a smart idea. We'll see if that lasts.....

Demolishing single malts sounds like a great plan

 

[sunchaser]

What a great trip! Three years ago when crossing the Gulf on an Alaskan ferry I spent considerable time on the bridge talking with the Captain.

One subject was weather windows. She (yes she) said the Gulf and Alaskan weather down to the Bering Sea were very difficult for their experts to predict, in particular formation of highs and lows. I've heard the same from the commercial guys and aviators. Kevin has some great GoA stories.

The St Elias National Park is spectacular. Catch a charter to McCarthy and overnight at the Kennicott Lodge if you have the time. For us, a true bucket list endeavor. I've personal interest and history with that area now included in the 6 million acre Park.

 

[ksanders]

Glad to see you making the treck up here.

Are you heading for Hinchinbrook entrance, or making landfall in Seward??

We are right now crossing from Prince William Sound to Seward, having spent the last week shrimping and halibut fishing.

you picked a nice sea state. we are in about 3' 9 second swells, about as good as it gets.

If you come into Seward first, try to moor on the long dock perpendicular to your route through the harbor. Thats F float. You will have Much better access to all that Seward offers.

We dock on F float, and ill be in the harbor through tomorrow, and will hope to see you there.

 

[twistedtree]

Thanks Kevin. I see F dock on the harbor map and will request it.

Right now the plan is to turn when we reach Cape St Elias, and head straight to Seward, arriving around 15:00 tomorrow (Friday). Plan B is to enter PWS at the Hinchinbrook entrance and take a slower, indirect route to Seward.

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

As Kevin can tell you, the weather south winds and swells may dictate going the long way around. Good luck! Looking at the same trip in a few years...


We are stuck in Ketch troubleshooting Pairadice windlass. Hope to get it resolved soon.

 

[BandB]

Glad to see you making the treck up here.

Are you heading for Hinchinbrook entrance, or making landfall in Seward??

We are right now crossing from Prince William Sound to Seward, having spent the last week shrimping and halibut fishing.

you picked a nice sea state. we are in about 3' 9 second swells, about as good as it gets.

If you come into Seward first, try to moor on the long dock perpendicular to your route through the harbor. Thats F float. You will have Much better access to all that Seward offers.

We dock on F float, and ill be in the harbor through tomorrow, and will hope to see you there.

Working from memory here so may not be correct. Am I correct that the transient side tie area of F Float does not have electricity?

Just from memory I thought for electric you either needed an end tie on one of the docks or to be in a slip (which I don't think he'll fit in any of the slips) or Z dock, which is somewhat inconvenient.

 

[ksanders]

Working from memory here so may not be correct. Am I correct that the transient side tie area of F Float does not have electricity?

Just from memory I thought for electric you either needed an end tie on one of the docks or to be in a slip (which I don't think he'll fit in any of the slips) or Z dock, which is somewhat inconvenient.

That is correct.

Most Transient areas do not have power.
I would not want to moor at Z float because you have to walk around the entire harbor to get to anything.

Depending on the length of stay, I seem to prefer to use the generator than hooking up to shore power. If I'm going to be on the boat or in town then the generator is fine. If we are planning on leaving the boat for more than a day, power is preferable.

We just spent an overnight and part of two days in Valdez and were able to get a good moorage as long as we didnt need power.

 

[BandB]

That is correct.

Most Transient areas do not have power.
I would not want to moor at Z float because you have to walk around the entire harbor to get to anything.

Depending on the length of stay, I seem to prefer to use the generator than hooking up to shore power. If I'm going to be on the boat or in town then the generator is fine. If we are planning on leaving the boat for more than a day, power is preferable.

We just spent an overnight and part of two days in Valdez and were able to get a good moorage as long as we didnt need power.

I noticed that in that part of Alaska and we have no problem running generator. In other areas of the country, they won't allow them to be run, at least not at night. I didn't know if Twisted was aware or not.

Definitely a long walk around from Z and not the most beautiful route to walk past the pump out and the oil dump and the seafood. Z is definitely in a different zone.

 

[ksanders]

I noticed that in that part of Alaska and we have no problem running generator. In other areas of the country, they won't allow them to be run, at least not at night. I didn't know if Twisted was aware or not.

Definitely a long walk around from Z and not the most beautiful route to walk past the pump out and the oil dump and the seafood. Z is definitely in a different zone.

Yes Z float is the scenic route.

We are right on F float. Easy Peasy access at the top of the ramp to two good restaurants, and the boardwalk.

 

[twistedtree]

Hum, we will need power because we are planning a multi-day inland excursion. I guess I'll work it out with the Harbor master on arrival. Thanks everyone for the pointers.

Re generators, it's no problem in more commercially oriented ports, which most all of AK is. We have been around a bunch of boats where they run 24x7 while at dock. Generator blackout periods seems to be a white-boat thing.

 

[twistedtree]

I see there are a bunch of bigger stalls on float E. Maybe I can get into one of those. Fingers crossed.

 

[BandB]

I see there are a bunch of bigger stalls on float E. Maybe I can get into one of those. Fingers crossed.

E would be good. And, if it comes to it, Z isn't really a bad place to be if you're use to commercial docks. You'll be enjoying Seward, not just the dock.

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

mmmm satellite communications/internet on TT?

 

[ksanders]

I see there are a bunch of bigger stalls on float E. Maybe I can get into one of those. Fingers crossed.

If you can get right across from me on F float I have an extra 30 amp power outlet available that you are welcome to use. I can let the harbor know it's OK.

 

[twistedtree]

If you can get right across from me on F float I have an extra 30 amp power outlet available that you are welcome to use. I can let the harbor know it's OK.

That would be awesome. When do you expect to be back? 30A would be plenty. i just need to keep the refer going. Where along F are you?

 

[twistedtree]

mmmm satellite communications/internet on TT?

Yes, I broke down this trip and am paying through the nose for Sat coms.

 

[Alaskan Sea-Duction]

Yes, I broke down this trip and am paying through the nose for Sat coms.

So get your money worth and post pics on TF!!!!!

 

[ksanders]

That would be awesome. When do you expect to be back? 30A would be plenty. i just need to keep the refer going. Where along F are you?

I am in F-33. That is about half way down F float.

The transient berthing is directly across the fairway from the F float slips. Don't know if the spot just across from me will be open tomorrow. Just as we were arriving a fishing boat was tying up.

I just made it back this afternoon and am cleaning up the boat.
Depending on when you get in tomorrow I may still be here, but I have to leave to go back to work for a few days.

I would like to greet you when you arrive, but we'll have to see.
If we don't cross paths this time, we will soon, since I think you are planning on being in Prince William Sound if memory serves correctly, and I'm off much of the summer.

What I'll do is pre-arrange that it's OK to use my extra 30 amp outlet. You cant miss it. I use the 50 amp one, and the 30 amp has a separate breaker.

Gotta love satellite internet and phone. Yes it is expensive but it sure comes in handy

 

[Wxx3]

Hum, we will need power because we are planning a multi-day inland excursion. I guess I'll work it out with the Harbor master on arrival. Thanks everyone for the pointers.

Re generators, it's no problem in more commercially oriented ports, which most all of AK is. We have been around a bunch of boats where they run 24x7 while at dock. Generator blackout periods seems to be a white-boat thing.

An American white-boat thing. Not an issue all over Europe.

I envy all of you.

I got to Kennecott twice in the 80's before they tamed it. You know, hand pulled cable tram over river, RR trestle with no guard rails.

Have fun all, I'll join you sooner or later.

Richard

 

[78puget-trawler]

The Gulf

I am glad you are having such fine weather if often isn't. This is what it looks like on a typical snotty summer day. Taken from a tug of over 100' and 3000hp towing a barge southbound one summer from the Bering Sea.

 

[twistedtree]

Yup, that's what I want to avoid. This is supposed the be fun, not work, and definitely not torture.

Conditions are a bit sloppy now with winds around 15kts and wind blown slop behind us. It's supposed to stay like this until around midnight, then settle back down a little bit as the winds pass south of us.

We just passed Cape St Elias and crossed the Hitchinbrook entrance fairway. 147 miles to go to Seward with ETA of about 14:00

 

[78puget-trawler]

Like my dad used to say whenever I left on the tugs, "don't get your feet wet!". Hope you get inside before it gets sloppy.

 

[sunchaser]

Yup, that's what I want to avoid. This is supposed the be fun, not work, and definitely not torture.

Conditions are a bit sloppy now with winds around 15kts and wind blown slop behind us. It's supposed to stay like this until around midnight, then settle back down a little bit as the winds pass south of us.

We just passed Cape St Elias and crossed the Hitchinbrook entrance fairway. 147 miles to go to Seward with ETA of about 14:00

Peter

A few questions:

How are you getting forecasts for AK and beyond? Onboard equipment and expertise, router, NOAA?

I did read your website February article but still curious to here and now. Are you with sufficient main alternator(s) for electrical needs or running genset off and on too?

How are zero speeds cooled, through keel or separate sea water pump? Are stabilizers performing well and oil staying cool?

Thanks

 

[twistedtree]

Peter

A few questions:

How are you getting forecasts for AK and beyond? Onboard equipment and expertise, router, NOAA?

I did read your website February article but still curious to here and now. Are you with sufficient main alternator(s) for electrical needs or running genset off and on too?

How are zero speeds cooled, through keel or separate sea water pump? Are stabilizers performing well and oil staying cool?

Thanks

For weather I've been using WindyTy, and GRIB files loaded into Coastal Explorer. Plus the usual NOAA zone forecasts. But windyty and the grib files (i think it's all the same forecast data just presented differently) give better granularity across an area. So, for example, I could see that conditions along our route within 30-40 miles of shore was a lot better than out in the middle of the gulf. The NOAA and Env canada reports just give you the worst case in the zone.

I wouldn't call myself a weather expert - not by any stretch - but through experience have learned what's comfortable and what's. My wife and I are both pone to mild sea sickness, so we avoid getting tossed around where possible.

The tandem main alternators (one 190A and the other 85A) are working great. Yesterday we did several loads of laundry, ran the dish washer, and are always using the microwave on and off. The generator hasn't been on once since we left.

In the Balmar Programming thread, I reported my new learning about how the Balmar MC charge controllers work, and figured out how to get it to stay in float mode when there are periodic large loads on the alternator. It's working great now too. I also figured out a simple way to get the effects of remote battery voltage sensing with the MC-624 which, unlike the MC-612, does not have remote battery sensing. I'll do a blog article on that later, but with proper battery voltage sensing, by charging working better than ever.

The hydraulic cooling is a bit odd on this boat with a combination of keel cooler and raw water heat exchanger. The keel cooler is for hydraulics that only operate stabilizers. But we opted for full hydraulics for thrusters, windless, anchor wash, and crash pump. Those require more cooling, so there is a raw water heat exchanger in addition to the keel cooler. If anything, the hydraulics run too cool. The fluid temp right now is 85F.

Other than some adjustments when new, the stabilizers have been trouble free. I wouldn't be without them. Actually, all the hydraulics have been trouble free.

 

[Crusty Chief]

Hope all is well Peter, Sounds like you got a bit lucky with the weather. Wish you the best.
Currently in Ketch, its raining consistently and winds in excess of 20 knots. Pretty snotty out in the open areas for the next few days.
New windlass is being shipped to us today, hope to get it by Tuesday.
Boat repairs in exotic places, ain't life grand?

 

[twistedtree]

All is well, and yes, we lucked out with the weather. We are currently entering Resurrection Bay, blue skies, and 3 kts of wind. 1:50 left to go, and 15 miles.

 

[mramoo]

John,

I hope this new part will fix your problem, and that the rest of this trip will be uneventful.

Pat