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Old 03-30-2018, 05:04 PM   #121
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Rails look great - thanks for sharing the pics. Reminds me that i need to rebed my stanchions on the back, i'm getting rust stains from underneath.

We removed the rear canvas on our back deck. Easier access for the dog and we like it feeling more open when we are sitting in the back. Makes it easier to see when backing into slip too.

This also reminds me of a question / post I made and never got a response, can't believe I stumped the forum?? Anyone with the same side step on the cabin ever had to be replaced? Mine is severely cracked now, and i cannot find anything similar -may have to be custom fabricated? thx
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Old 03-30-2018, 06:29 PM   #122
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If you want a step exactly the same and canít find one, why not use the old one to make a mold and make a new one out of fiberglass? Not too hard to do if you have a bit of fiberglass experience.
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Old 03-30-2018, 09:27 PM   #123
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Originally Posted by KneeDeep View Post
Rails look great - thanks for sharing the pics. Reminds me that i need to rebed my stanchions on the back, i'm getting rust stains from underneath.

We removed the rear canvas on our back deck. Easier access for the dog and we like it feeling more open when we are sitting in the back. Makes it easier to see when backing into slip too.

This also reminds me of a question / post I made and never got a response, can't believe I stumped the forum?? Anyone with the same side step on the cabin ever had to be replaced? Mine is severely cracked now, and i cannot find anything similar -may have to be custom fabricated? thx
If it were me, I would reinforce it from the inside. Grind all the bad stuff away, then lay some new fiberglass down and redrill the holes.
I did something very similar to this with a fiberglass fender I had on my RV.
Of course if fiberglass repair is not something you want to deal with, you could always make some out of teak or other nice wood.
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Old 03-31-2018, 12:24 PM   #124
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I agree with you on the windage issue. But not sure if I would like the look, especially in the corners.
If the canvas was only between the stanchions, the corners would be open. I think that would look strange.
To put the canvas in the corners around the radius you would need some attachment points on the deck with the same curve. Thatís more work and expense. A better look, but not sure if itís worth it.
Definitely something to think about.
Thanks for the suggestion. Now Iíve got another thing on my list.
If you use grommets and lash the canvas to the rails, you can wrap it around the corner.
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Old 03-31-2018, 03:46 PM   #125
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You could epoxy them into the bases (in addition to the set screws). That should add considerable strength.

If you need to remove them in the future, just apply a heat gun to the base.

Just a thought. (OOPS! I see I'm too late.....)
Just drill right size hole in tube and tap and machine screw-now have best of both worlds-------- strong and removable!!
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Old 04-01-2018, 07:28 PM   #126
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If you use grommets and lash the canvas to the rails, you can wrap it around the corner.
That looks great!
I need to rethink some of my priorities.
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Old 04-01-2018, 08:48 PM   #127
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If you can have the canvas hemmed to spec, you could add the grommets and lash it with parachute cord yourself. If you need close-ups of the lashing knots, let me know.
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Old 04-02-2018, 09:54 PM   #128
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Thx for fiberglass ideas- heading to local shop tomorrow!
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Old 04-03-2018, 09:27 PM   #129
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Thx for fiberglass ideas- heading to local shop tomorrow!
Youíre welcome. Fiberglass is an amazing product. I was just repairing my battery box today when my neighbor came over in need of some repair on a vintage gas station pump. It had been repaired over 30 years ago but was delaminating. So we took the old off and put on a couple of new layers. Should be good for another 30. Great stuff.
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Old 04-04-2018, 07:43 AM   #130
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Overpowered Prairie 36

Isnt the Prairie 36 a little over-powered with 500HP??
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Old 04-04-2018, 10:31 AM   #131
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Isnt the Prairie 36 a little over-powered with 500HP??
Mine has 400HP (twin 200HP Perkins turbo diesels) and I consider it over-powered for trawler speeds.

But it's actually a semi-planing hull, and rumor has it I could get 13-15 knots out of it if I wanted to pay the fuel bill.
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Old 04-04-2018, 11:08 AM   #132
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Isnt the Prairie 36 a little over-powered with 500HP??
I’m at 270 Total HP with the same engines as Tom, but NA.

I believe there are some out there with 4 cylinder engines and even less horsepower.
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Old 04-04-2018, 11:12 AM   #133
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My President has twin Lehman 225s in it. Also overpowered a bit. We hit 17 knots on the sea trial. Usually run at 9 knots.
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Old 04-10-2018, 03:20 PM   #134
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Holding Tank Progress - More Pictures

A few more pictures on my holding tank progress. I know how all of you like pictures.
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Old 04-10-2018, 05:25 PM   #135
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I had a sailboat that had some PVC piping to the heads. At a survey trying to sell it the buyers surveyor wrote that PVC below the waterline was a no-no according to ABYS Standards. This is because the hull can flex and crack the PVC piping and sink the boat. I had to change to all hose to sell the boat.
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Old 04-10-2018, 05:36 PM   #136
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PVC below the waterline is bad for things like engine intake lines, but the head will not sink the boat unless the PVC is on a discharge below the waterline. The discharge hose should be hose. Otherwise the PVC in a holding system may only fill your boat with something that smells but it wonít sink the boat. My boat has a long run from the forward head to the holding tank that is PVC. Been in the boat for years, no problems. The nice thing about PVC in the holding system is that it does not permeate.
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Old 04-10-2018, 05:48 PM   #137
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Is Schedule 40 sufficient for the pumpout run or is Schedule 80 the only suitable PVC? My tank-to-pumpout fitting hose is due for replacement and I'm considering using PVC.
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Old 04-10-2018, 07:04 PM   #138
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FYI all of my connections to the hull, deck, and toilets are with hose. In the third picture with the double “Y” there are two hose runs that go to the right. The larger upper one from the “Y” goes to the deck pump out and the smaller lower one from the elbow goes to the vent thru the hull. See the second picture for the deck and hull connections.
The hose connection to the left “Y” is capped for now. If I decide to install a pump, it will be hose from there to a sea cock and thru hull fitting.
Both toilets will have a short length of hose with a loop before connecting to the PVC hose barb fitting.
I hope that answers the concerns and comments.
I appreciate all the feedback.
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Old 04-11-2018, 10:40 PM   #139
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Here is a before and after picture of the toilet installation. It shows the PVC hose barb connection to the hose to the toilet. Since PVC does not permeate, I used it in areas where there was any chance of standing sewage in the lines.
I hope that and the other pictures gives a better understanding of how I used PVC for this project.
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Old 04-13-2018, 09:27 AM   #140
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Is Schedule 40 sufficient for the pumpout run or is Schedule 80 the only suitable PVC? My tank-to-pumpout fitting hose is due for replacement and I'm considering using PVC.
Sorry I missed your question. But IMHO the answer is, yes.
Iím not a plumbing expert, but did some pvc research before I started my project. The difference between schedule 40 & 80 is the wall thickness. So schedule 80 will handle more pressure than schedule 40. From my notes schedule 40 is around 200 psi operating and about 5 times that for bursting pressure. Schedule 80 is about twice that. I also asked a coupe of plumbers and they said that schedule 80 was way over kill.
Since I was dealing with sewage and drains I wanted seep fittings. Sweep fittings are not for pressure, so I thought drain flow was more important than pressure.
Iím not sure how much vacuum a pump out creates, but I would bet that a hose would collapse before schedule 40 pvc.
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