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Old 06-23-2020, 09:20 AM   #21
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Windlass Help Needed

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Originally Posted by Martin J View Post
The manual shows the 4 fastner's as threaded long slot headed screws.


Are you referring to the bolts on page 23? If so, I think those are behind the clutch cone and hold the case together.
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Old 06-23-2020, 09:22 AM   #22
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The manual shows the 4 fastner's as threaded long slot headed screws.
Going through the inner clutch cone? Where do you see that?
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Old 06-23-2020, 09:24 AM   #23
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Are you referring to the bolts on page 23? If so, I think those are behind the clutch cone and hold the case together.
Correct, they bolt to the gear case and are beyond the clutch cone. In fact those are what I am trying to get to as they have come loose.
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Old 06-23-2020, 10:01 AM   #24
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Yep you guys are right about the bolts. How about using some CRC freeze off on the shaft close to the cone? I've seen freeze off work were Wd40 did'nt.
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Old 06-23-2020, 12:04 PM   #25
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I told my mechanic that I had measured what I needed in a gear puller and was off to get one. He said hang on. Let's try MAPP gas and try heating it first so I won't risk damaging the shaft. So he is sourcing some. If that doesn't work then I will try a gear puller.
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Old 06-26-2020, 08:22 PM   #26
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Are you referring to pge 23, part SP 3203. THese bolts appear to hold the side of the case together going through the gear case to hold in the other side plate. THey appear to me to be behind the brass cone clutch
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Old 06-26-2020, 08:33 PM   #27
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Disconnect power, remove from boat, transport to machine shop....
I once removed my Muir Cheetah (are cheetahs faster than cougars?) horizontal to have it repaired. Seriously heavy. Repair in place if possible.
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Old 06-29-2020, 12:20 AM   #28
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The parts diagram normally shows the new style clutch cones you have the old ones. The four bolts mentioned (not the pins on the clutch cones) hold the gearbox to the side of the casing casing.

I think your key may be damaged and jamming in the slot in the shaft and the clutch casing. Try and rotate it backwards and forwards a little and it may release the pressure on the key.

I rebuilt our old one this time last year. Lots of fun. The clutch cones I had (old style) slipped straight off the shaft.

Have you messaged Will Vroomans from Maxwell? He is very helpful.
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Old 06-29-2020, 12:34 AM   #29
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Old 06-29-2020, 12:47 AM   #30
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If you get really desperate take the windlass off the deck and turn it over. There are two circlips on the shaft that hold the shaft in place. If you can get one or both off the shaft you can hopefully slide it the right way, remove it and take the shaft to a shop to have the clutch removed.

Get a collection of good quality circlip pliers. It is like doing brain surgery through your rectum.
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Old 06-29-2020, 05:43 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulGel View Post
The parts diagram normally shows the new style clutch cones you have the old ones. The four bolts mentioned (not the pins on the clutch cones) hold the gearbox to the side of the casing casing.

I think your key may be damaged and jamming in the slot in the shaft and the clutch casing. Try and rotate it backwards and forwards a little and it may release the pressure on the key.

I rebuilt our old one this time last year. Lots of fun. The clutch cones I had (old style) slipped straight off the shaft.

Have you messaged Will Vroomans from Maxwell? He is very helpful.
Nope, the key slides forward and back in the slot easily. Aware of what the bolts are for, see post #23 above.
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Old 06-29-2020, 05:45 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulGel View Post
If you get really desperate take the windlass off the deck and turn it over. There are two circlips on the shaft that hold the shaft in place. If you can get one or both off the shaft you can hopefully slide it the right way, remove it and take the shaft to a shop to have the clutch removed.

Get a collection of good quality circlip pliers. It is like doing brain surgery through your rectum.
Won't work. The cone on the other side (dual windlass) is also frozen to the shaft.
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Old 06-29-2020, 01:30 PM   #33
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I gave the same windless. Why are you try to remove the inner cone brake? It turns with the motor (hydraulic or electric) and should not slip.

The well greased parts you remove use friction to tighten or release the wildcats.

Trying to understand what is wrong with your windless.
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Old 06-29-2020, 02:20 PM   #34
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Have you contacted the mfgr. yet for some advice? I'll guess they have run into this problem before and may have some specific advice.


Have you tried heat? It is a common and effective means of getting frozen parts to release.
Just pay attention to what you do with the torches after the heating or you may burn yourself or the deck from a hot torch.
If you are fooling around too much with what to do with the torch[s] you may lose the opportunity and the cone will cool off to much. Rig a holder, doesn't have to be fancy. FOrgot I used a couple old degraded zincs screwed to the holder for weight.

I think I have seen the question asked already but cannot not spot it so so will ask again. Have you popped out those buttons on the cone to see if they are threaded. If they are then try some bolts to figure out the threading and use a puller. Make a 4 bolt puller so the pull is more even so less likely to damage the cone.
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Old 06-29-2020, 02:23 PM   #35
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HWC Windless

I have this windless as well. Why are you trying to get these off?
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Old 06-29-2020, 02:24 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garychurch View Post
I gave the same windless. Why are you try to remove the inner cone brake? It turns with the motor (hydraulic or electric) and should not slip.

The well greased parts you remove use friction to tighten or release the wildcats.

Trying to understand what is wrong with your windless.
I have an issue with the four bolts that connect the whole shebang to the motor. I need to get at those.
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Old 06-29-2020, 02:35 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by C lectric View Post
Have you contacted the mfgr. yet for some advice? I'll guess they have run into this problem before and may have some specific advice.


Have you tried heat? It is a common and effective means of getting frozen parts to release.
Just pay attention to what you do with the torches after the heating or you may burn yourself or the deck from a hot torch.
If you are fooling around too much with what to do with the torch[s] you may lose the opportunity and the cone will cool off to much.

I think I have seen the question asked already but cannot not spot it so so will ask again. Have you popped out those buttons on the cone to see if they are threaded. If they are then try some bolts to figure out the threading and use a puller. Make a 4 bolt puller so the pull is more even so less likely to damage the cone.
Will from Vetus/Maxwell was on the phone with us last time up.

Mechanic used the heat gun this afternoon and got the cone off!!!

Once he took the manual retrieval plate off he found one bolt sheared off, three others loose, two of those bent.

Felt like 105 on that foredeck.

So now to undo the four bolts holding the unit to the deck, turn it over, and position the motor so we can get new bolts in with Loctite and perhaps see what caused the failure.

Also need to loosen the cone on the other side as well while we are at it.
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Old 06-29-2020, 02:41 PM   #38
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Just glad you got it free.
I'm sure you know but when reassembling use so waterproof grease [ outboard eng. prop shaft grease} in the cone bores or an antiseeze product so it won't freeze again.
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Old 07-02-2020, 03:07 PM   #39
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Both. Directly hit with a rubber mallet, indirectly with a small sledge on a piece of 2/4. No movement. I will keep soaking in PB Blaster and trying.

One other thing. Yesterday it was 98 here. I took off all of the other gypsy wheels etc. and laid them on a drop cloth on the fore deck. When it came time to put them back on I couldn't even touch them, they were so hot. Had to cover them for a while before getting them back on!
If you start beating on that you are going to blow the shaft seal. The brass should heat much faster than the stainless shaft
I can't see how that wouldn't solve your problem easily. However, the home made puller would also do the trick.

Just stop beating on it. It isn't an uncooperative child. lol
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Old 07-02-2020, 04:02 PM   #40
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Great the mechanic got it apart.
Know the question is why did the bolts fail ?
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