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Old 11-26-2020, 11:12 AM   #21
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Glad we all could help. Will note if you buy from industrial supply house rather than marine it’s cheaper.
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Old 11-30-2020, 02:17 PM   #22
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Sikaflex 295 UV
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Old 11-30-2020, 02:21 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by mvweebles View Post
Replacing windows on my Willard 36 - fairly large (24" x 30") panes of 3/8" tempered glass. Yard has formed an integral fiberglass frame on inside of window where the glass will sit with a mating surface against the pane of about 1-1/4" on the inside. On the outside, a fiberglass frame will sandwich the glass to capture it well.

Recommendations on adhesive/sealant? I see Dow 795 is often recommended. Thoughts?

Peter
Hi Peter. I'd suggest the 3M product and glass primer. Glass is hydrophilic (attracts moisture) so this helps the bond...such as what they use when they bond glass panels in high rises. When applying the adhesives from a caulking gun cut the tip if the tub in a "V" shape and dispense almost at 9p degrees such that the adhesive comes out ina teepee or upside down "V" shape. This assumes 100% contact with the glass and frame and eliminates and air bubbles. You should be able to see all the surface preparation (very important as adhesive stick well to dirt etc but dirt etc doesn't stick well to glass etc. ) and application information and videos online at the 3M site or you tub. Mask off the frame and glass where you don't want adhesive for a clean finish. Br careful to nit touch the binding areas. Remove masking asap ...right after application. In my opinion Butyl is great but not curing it can't get dirty and be "washed" away with solvents or presure waters more easily and in extremely hot temperatures will soften and even ooze out under some pressure or movement. Butyl is typically covered up with a mechanical device/ trim. Think high rises or cars tested up to 100+ kph. Just saying. Good luck. Stay safe.
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Old 11-30-2020, 02:25 PM   #24
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The wrinkle is that a car's windshield glass has ceramic dots embedded in the glass for the adhesive to grab. I don't think there is any adhesive that will bond to glass.

A possible work around might be to etch the glass at the edges. Hobby shops will have the supplies needed. It would be the same stuff crafters use to etch images into glass.

At this point just thinking out through. No experience yet.
Tape off the area where you want adhesion to the glass and hit it with a sander. Instant etching.
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Old 11-30-2020, 02:41 PM   #25
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I would use Bostik 7008. Recently I had a professional marine glass installer from Fort Lauderdale install all new glass on my boat. this is what they used. It was a flush glass installation. The 3M does not recommend any of their products to install glass in marine applications. I called them before my installation. In cars, windshield are attached using 3M Window-weld. It is not UV Stable. Car windshield are fretted. That means there is a baked-in opaque black fret around the perimeter of the windshield that protects the adhesive from UV and adds a surface for the adhesive to bite. If your installation will protect the adhesive from UV exposure it might be OK. Still,3M does not recommend that product for marine use.
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Old 11-30-2020, 03:04 PM   #26
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I would use Bostik 7008. Recently I had a professional marine glass installer from Fort Lauderdale install all new glass on my boat. this is what they used. It was a flush glass installation. The 3M does not recommend any of their products to install glass in marine applications. I called them before my installation. In cars, windshield are attached using 3M Window-weld. It is not UV Stable. Car windshield are fretted. That means there is a baked-in opaque black fret around the perimeter of the windshield that protects the adhesive from UV and adds a surface for the adhesive to bite. If your installation will protect the adhesive from UV exposure it might be OK. Still,3M does not recommend that product for marine use.
If this is in regard to 3M UV 4000 Ultraglaze, I won't question this as I've never asked 3M before. Did you see this in writing somewhere? I've never heard this before and know that this is the product that Bomar uses for glazing and recommends for reglazing the lights in deck hatches. I have used it repeatedly to glaze glass and portlights in my boats and have never had an issue over multiple years.
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Old 11-30-2020, 03:19 PM   #27
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Hi Peter,
Having to remove and replace windows an a 36 willard aft pilot house. The boat was 30 plus years old a that point and no leaks just UV damage. A lot trouble to remove. I called Willard and they said Sikaflex was used to install all windows. So I used Sikaflex to install new windows and they are still good togo.
I have seen a lot of failures with tape. 3M I have never used so I can not say.
There are two ways to install windows. one is so you can remove easley. The other way is to put them in so you don't have to do the job again. All of this is in my opinion.
Don
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Old 11-30-2020, 04:14 PM   #28
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I've seen a lot of tape failures too.

Boat Works Today on youtube!! Check him out. The ONLY silicon he uses is the Dow 795 and only for window glass.
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Old 11-30-2020, 04:43 PM   #29
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Hi Peter,
Having to remove and replace windows an a 36 willard aft pilot house. The boat was 30 plus years old a that point and no leaks just UV damage. A lot trouble to remove. I called Willard and they said Sikaflex was used to install all windows. So I used Sikaflex to install new windows and they are still good togo.
I have seen a lot of failures with tape. 3M I have never used so I can not say.
There are two ways to install windows. one is so you can remove easley. The other way is to put them in so you don't have to do the job again. All of this is in my opinion.
Don
Hey Don. Your W36 was the one that went to Hawaii and back in 1987, wasn't it? If so, I have some questions.

I pretty well decided on the Sika products. 295 for "organic" glass (inexplicably, this means acrylic or polycarbonate), and 296 for the side glass panes.

BTW - Marks Plastics in Corona CA (near Riverside in LA area) had a mold for the curved W36 Sedan windows so he formed up - he was kind enough to meet me at a boatyard near San Diego so I didn't have to drive from Ensenada to LA (picture is from 4 weeks ago) . Super nice guy. I don't recall exactly, but I don't think the PH version of W36 had same windows.

Peter Click image for larger version

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Old 11-30-2020, 04:54 PM   #30
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I spoke to 3M's technical people about this. There is an auto products division and a marine division. I spoke to both. They did email me as well. While they used to recommend certain products for marine glass installation they no longer did. I had the discussions with them about this in March. I have used 3M 4000 UV as well in other applications successfully.
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Old 11-30-2020, 05:09 PM   #31
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I was looking at Sika as well. I found it very difficult to communicate with them but I was about to use their product. My window installer had used the Sika product as well but was happier with Bostik 7008.
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Old 11-30-2020, 05:22 PM   #32
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Greetings,
I would strongly recommend NOT using silicone products and also NOT etching the surface of tempered glass in ANY way.



There are viable alternatives to silicone which have been noted but I would still use butyl tape because at some point you will have to re-bed the windows. You mention "...a fiberglass frame will sandwich the glass..." which should work with butyl.



ANY scratch or etching on the surface will weaken tempered glass. Each scratch, even at the microscopic level, is a potential fracture site which defeats the purpose of the tempering.
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Old 11-30-2020, 05:23 PM   #33
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I was looking at Sika as well. I found it very difficult to communicate with them but I was about to use their product. My window installer had used the Sika product as well but was happier with Bostik 7008.
Back in post #19, I expressed frustration with contacting Sika too. But I like their products and found this install sheet that made sense to me. Reposting link for convenience.

https://dnk.sika.com/dms/getdo...Bon...pplication.pdf
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