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Old 11-12-2019, 11:00 AM   #21
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Thanks, Don. But the manufacturer's description states that it's not recommended for darker-toned clear coat paint. You had no ill effects from its use on your dark hull?
I did it by hand to avoid any harsh effects with a machine.
No noticable effects other than a very light blue pick up on the cloth.
I've used it extensively on gelcoat with excellent results both hand and machine.
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Old 11-12-2019, 12:05 PM   #22
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I did it by hand to avoid any harsh effects with a machine.
No noticable effects other than a very light blue pick up on the cloth.
I've used it extensively on gelcoat with excellent results both hand and machine.

So, it did penetrate the resin surface coat and get to the pigment. I'd not want to do that very often. Awlgrip provides the following recommendations: https://www.awlgrip.com/support/main...awlgrip-finish


Use only mild solvents to remove stubborn stains. Awlprep T0008, mineral spirits, xylene, kerosene and diesel fuel are acceptable for use on these topcoats. They also specifically advise not to use strong solvents, such as lacquer thinner, M.E.K. or acetone, to clean Awlcraft 2000 finishes.
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Old 11-12-2019, 01:08 PM   #23
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?..Use only mild solvents to remove stubborn stains. Awlprep T0008, mineral spirits, xylene, kerosene and diesel fuel are acceptable for use on these topcoats. They also specifically advise not to use strong solvents, such as lacquer thinner, M.E.K. or acetone, to clean Awlcraft 2000 finishes.
We had Awgrip and now Awlcraft 2000. I found mineral spirits and/or WD40 worked to take the glue residue off. My biggest issue is/was being patient and remembering to change rags frequently.
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Old 11-12-2019, 01:52 PM   #24
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We had Awgrip and now Awlcraft 2000. I found mineral spirits and/or WD40 worked to take the glue residue off. My biggest issue is/was being patient and remembering to change rags frequently.
Thanks, Larry. So, you never experienced pigment removal using these products? That's good confirmation.
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Old 11-12-2019, 02:08 PM   #25
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We have used Bio-Solv to remove old vinyl letters, and works like a charm. We just lent some to our slip neighbor as his old letters were fairly thin, and scraping/razor blading them was taking forever. Using Bio-Solv he was done in minutes.

But if you choose to use heat, I agree with the recommendation to start with a good hair dryer before going to a heat gun. A hair dryer won't accidentally bubble your paint!
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Old 11-12-2019, 02:14 PM   #26
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Thanks, Larry. So, you never experienced pigment removal using these products? That's good confirmation.
Not that I’ve noticed but we’ve always had white hulls/paint.
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Old 11-12-2019, 02:42 PM   #27
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Not that I’ve noticed but we’ve always had white hulls/paint.
I just checked Bio-Solv's website and discovered that this product can attack several types of surfaces, including acrylic, within an hour of exposure. And Awlcraft paint is acrylic-based. So, I'd be really careful about using it on a painted hull. Maybe you got lucky?



https://greenacetone.com/compatibility/
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Old 11-12-2019, 03:19 PM   #28
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Try WD40
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Old 11-12-2019, 03:41 PM   #29
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Try WD40
WD40 apparently is composed of half solvent and another quarter oil. It's controversial, to say the least. Have you used it successfully to remove vinyl graphics from a marine painted fibreglass surface?
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Old 11-12-2019, 03:53 PM   #30
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If all else fails, and those did, I bought Vinyl Off, you can find it on the company website and on Amazon. It is about $32/qt. The stuff works, you can see it on my Youtube channel Buena Ventura Life.


Nothing else did the trick, the vinyl lettering was embedded in the gelcoat.
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Old 11-14-2019, 07:57 PM   #31
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I’ve use a 3M vinyl eraser wheel on a rechargeable Dewalt drill on gel coat. Worked like a charm. Shouldn’t hurt the paint as they are used on cars too... Took the adhesive off also. I followed with wax/grease remover, 3M Finnese It and finally a good boat wax.
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Old 11-14-2019, 08:54 PM   #32
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Eucalyptus oil is very good at dissolving adhesive. Probably more available here than there.
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Old 11-16-2019, 08:24 PM   #33
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I think the easiest way to remove vinyl letters is with a vinyl eraser. It is a rubber disc that you chuck in a drill and erase the vinyl off the paint. I’ve used the one made by 3M on gel coat and it worked great. They specifically mention using it on marine paint in their literature.
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...4857497&rt=rud
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I’ve use a 3M vinyl eraser wheel on a rechargeable Dewalt drill on gel coat. Worked like a charm. Shouldn’t hurt the paint as they are used on cars too... Took the adhesive off also. I followed with wax/grease remover, 3M Finnese It and finally a good boat wax.
Another endorsement for the 3M Stripe-off wheel. Just used it a few weeks ago on my painted hull. I have no idea how my paint relates to yours, but it didn't damage mine at all. The wheel gets warm, but not hot. No hotter than a hair dryer would get.
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Old 11-18-2019, 05:07 PM   #34
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Graphics removal

Have used a spray called Aircraft Decal Remover. Worked great on some 15+ year decals. Also used on more recent graphics. Do know know manufacturer or if still available, but if it is give it a try.

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Old 11-18-2019, 05:57 PM   #35
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Well, aside from the more serious issue of cafe oil, which I hope to resolve very soon with the sage advice of members of this forum, I plan a vessel name change.


And prior to having the new graphics installed, I must obviously remove the old. I say old, though the current vinyl was only installed in 2016. And the boat has been stored indoors heated every winter since she was brand new off the factory floor.


I understand that removal from a gelcoat finish requires a certain procedure and products, but from paint is another matter. I presume that the task involves a hairdryer. But can anyone with such experience kindly share the benefits of that experience so that I don't damage my Alwcraft 2000 paint finish? Thanks.
With the same paint and probably same color (Claret), I elected to have the sign shop owner where the boat's new name was printed do the honors. She used a hair drier. DO NOT use sharp objects on this paint.
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Old 11-18-2019, 06:50 PM   #36
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I have found that when using heat that once you can get a corner up try to extend the lip as wide as possible. Try to keep the vinyl pull as close to the original surface as possible. What I mean is if you were to fold the lip over onto the un-pulled surface and pull it as close to parallel with the unstuck vinyl as possible. You can only get so close as your fingers will be in the way. Pliers or gripping tools don't work. Don’t be greedy. Once you get a decent piece move back and forth across the tag pulling in slow short pulls. Wave the heat gun frequently and do not concentrate in one area. If your fingers are burning it’s probably too hot!
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