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Old 09-24-2017, 04:03 PM   #61
Nomad Willy's Avatar
City: Concrete Washington State
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 18,581
I just oil interior teak.
Mix my own oil.

North Western Washington State USA
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Old 09-24-2017, 07:34 PM   #62
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City: Matagorda Bay
Vessel Name: Salty
Vessel Model: 2005 Defever 44
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 227
Originally Posted by Delfin View Post
IMO, you can't beat Epifanes Rubbed Effect varnish on interior wood. Much harder than varnish, it won't show scratches like gloss will.
Not interior wood, but just finished reworking Salty's name boards with Epifanes high gloss....Love that stuff! I also use it on our home mahogany front door unit, which faces due West in the South Texas sun/heat. I topcoat every 3 years, when other marine spar varnish products were trashed after one year.
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Old 09-24-2017, 09:04 PM   #63
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City: Tri-Cities WA
Vessel Name: Long Shot
Vessel Model: 1978 Californian 42' LRC
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 191
Door Sheen

Guido, I went with gloss on the exterior and satin on the interior.

Please throw me the bowline Fraulein!
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Old 09-28-2017, 05:36 PM   #64
City: Marion, Massachusetts
Vessel Name: Wanderer
Vessel Model: Pilgrim 40
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 575
Any Yacht painter pros out there?

From my days holding a brush, I have a couple observations.

Teak has a ton of oil in it. It's a quality that makes it ideal for applications in a wooden boat that would be a problem to paint because of the use. (think a nice slippery deck) It's modern component is non-skid fiberglass. Some other exterior applications have been replaced by Starboard (HDPE plastic)

The teak deck can't be beat for beauty. Any you don't have to paint it to keep it around. As I read in an earlier post, clean across the grain (just type "teak cleaner" into google) and rinse. When it drys off, oil with teak oil. You have to watch out for boiled linseed oil as it can leave a surface when it hardens if you get too much on.

And the nice thing is that on a lazy hot sunny day you can re-oil.

Varnish is made for mahogany. Everyone has a favorite brand. Think about clear or cmber finish first. I like the Amber because it's what always was used - but that's me.

Then think about gloss or satin. Usually its gloss on the outside and satin on the inside.

Spar varnish is made for spars and those applications where the wood is undergoing alot of movement - but this type is not as hard a finish, so don't use it where there's foot traffic.

The two part epoxy varnishes can be tricky to apply. And you can't clean and thin with mineral spirits, but some folks love them.

A good sight to compare all this is

They have all the products in one place so they are easy to compare, and they have how tos in the sidebar.

I once had a varnish job where we took out rags soaked with spirits at the end and wiped it all off. happens to every one sooner or later.
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