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Old 07-17-2020, 02:11 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by mickand View Post
From the look of the ‘white’ in the finish I think it is pure polyurethane which does not adhere well to wood. Strip, clean out seam, build up entire rail with multi-varnish coats then apply one topcoat of 3 part Awlbrite. Tape either side of seam and apply black or white marine caulk.
Not sure what finish you’re referring to. My rails are in post 32 and they’re bare wood.
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Old 07-17-2020, 02:15 PM   #42
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Varnish failure

I have seen it time after time. Finish especially Varnish failures are caused by moisture in the product being finished. If moisture is inside the joint and is sealed in there it will expand when exposed to heat produced by the sun shining on it. The joint needs to be dried to a point where the wood is dry. Any moisture inside the joint will continue to create problems. The movement
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Old 07-17-2020, 03:18 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by cabinetman1955 View Post
I have seen it time after time. Finish especially Varnish failures are caused by moisture in the product being finished. If moisture is inside the joint and is sealed in there it will expand when exposed to heat produced by the sun shining on it. The joint needs to be dried to a point where the wood is dry. Any moisture inside the joint will continue to create problems. The movement
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Old 07-17-2020, 07:26 PM   #44
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Thanks. Problem is It would take a razor to cut into the seams. They’re extremely tight (except for the bow). I do like your idea of rounding off any edges at the joints to ensure mil thickness. No varnish will be used on this job: Awlwood.
Yeah I understand-but I took the advice of my local professional varnish guru & v’ed the butt joints even where they appeared tight (I have many wide scarf joints also on my toe rail identical to your pics also). I cut out all the old caulking where present; rounded, varnished 10 coats, then caulked with Sikaflex 295UV. time will tell but the varnish almost always peels at the joints-even when they look tight. Wood moves at least it did on my rails
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Old 07-28-2020, 12:11 AM   #45
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One more

After removing the black part what was below looked to me anyway, like thin coating of something that felt rubbery. I proceeded to dig it dug out. It was thick and felt like rubber. The second picture is what I dug out. Do you know what this is called? If you have a product name that would be great.


The first picture is what I have now. I need to fill it with whatever that rubber stuff was and then put the Zikaflex over that. Does that sound right?


Thanks.
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20200719_160155[1].jpg   20200719_160213[1].jpg  
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Old 07-28-2020, 07:44 AM   #46
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Probably butyl. Have multiple boats with plenty of bright work. What I’d do.
Wood everything. Protect from rain and leave to dry for several weeks. Wait for multiple low humidity days. Those saying wood needs to be bone dry are right.
Get all the butyl out before drying time.. Use dental picks and multiple acetone washes if necessary.
Varnish including inside edges of joint but start with just one part varnish 3 parts thinner. Second through third 1 to 1 forth and firth 3 to one. sixth to eight straight varnish. Like old school epiphanes. Idea is to get maximal penetration and each side totally independent in their coatings. At that point whatever you put in the joint doesn’t much matter as long as it’s somewhat flexible and UV stabilized.
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Old 07-30-2020, 07:03 PM   #47
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https://www.jamestowndistributors.co...ct.do?pid=1518
This stuff is the ticket to refill. I would use tape on both sides of the joint with your project. Use a plastic scraper to smooth/force into the joint.
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Old 07-30-2020, 07:16 PM   #48
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+1 on TDS 440.
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Old 08-01-2020, 07:32 PM   #49
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For bright finish check Awlgrip Awlwood clear prime and Awlwood gloss topcoat, as example, minimum 8 coats. Avoid common varnish. Read specifications and study performance information comparisons available online before just buying common varnish.
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