Using CPES and Teak deck removal

[grahamdouglass]

I recently viewed an episode of Sailing Magic Carpet which I posted below. It has two interesting things.

#1. The use of Clear Penetrating Epoxy (CPES) to prep wood before varnishing. As Aladino says, he wants to fully soak the wood in epoxy to turn it into plastic so it does not absorb water.

#2. I've seen a few teak decks removed and it has been a really ugly and messy affair with broken teak and broken screws. The way this teak deck was removed is really remarkable. How much of this was do to good editing and how long this took is not known. The deck was removed intact and it looks like it could be replaced as one piece once the fiberglass substrate is prepared and water proofed. The video is well worth watching for those who work with wood on old trawlers.

 

[syjos]

I use regular epoxy to seal wood prior to varnish. It stabalizes the wood by keeping moisture out reducing shrinking and expansion of the wood which allows the varnish to last a long time.

Advantage to the Smith CPES for sealing wood is that the first coat of varnish can be applied when the CPES becomes tacky instead of waiting for the epoxy to dry, sanding it before varnish.

I like using regular epoxy because CPES is watery and tends to run. It also takes a while (days sometimes) to tack up. The regular epoxy applies thicker for more protection from dings.

 

[GB32Patience]

Pulling my deck as well....

Thanks for this Video as it relates to my recent deck removal efforts on my GB32. I will post separate regarding larger project (replacement of aft cockpit decking) but I can say that my current deck removal came off pretty much as per the video. I was warned of many deamons associated with this job but once i pulled the screws, with approx. only 10% needing bungs removed, but essentially the decking "popped" off with an easy release of the old adhesive. Interesting construction of the deck itself as the planks were not separated by caulking seams, but actually all butted up against the next with a little "shelf" routed out, about half the depth of the wood to accept the caulking. This became problematic as much of the decking had been worn down, just shy of this shelf (Powerwashed OMG!!) so that any additional refinishing would result in the disappearance of the caulking groove.... arg... leaving about .2 inch of thickness with even less in some areas..... leading to a replacement strategy.. with what? Pulling that post together shortly, as it is an open question... a few images from my adventure.... btw.. it was WET underneath the decking... a few core samples from the deck below look OK so should be good there... see image of cleaning up old glue with oscillating tool.

 

[socalrider]

I recently viewed an episode of Sailing Magic Carpet which I posted below. It has two interesting things.

Thanks for posting. The methods I've seen for deck removal haven't started with screw removal - that seems like quite a laborious task, but maybe worth it based on the results here.

Thanks for this Video as it relates to my recent deck removal efforts on my GB32. I will post separate regarding larger project (replacement of aft cockpit decking) but I can say that my current deck removal came off pretty much as per the video.

Please do post your progress - interested to hear how you move forward.

 

[GB32Patience]

Teak Deck Removal

Thanks! Will do. I think I had it easy as probably really 95% of my screws had lost their bungs. If that was not the case, it would have been a bear. Flat blade screwdriver bit in a reversible drill with some good lighting. Probably did the back cockpit (approx. 65 sq ft) excluding hatches (12 sq ft) in 5-6 hours. The fact that the decking just pealed right up was great. Will be getting started on the process post probably this evening and will welcome for sure all input and direction.

 

[Cigatoo]

Good info Patience! Following.

 

[Comodave]

I use a small plastic hammer to tap out the deck. You should get a sharp sound if the core is good and more of a thud if it is wet. With a little experience you can tell fairly well where it is good and where it is bad. Maybe not as accurate as a moisture meter but certainly cheaper. Oh BTW the shelf is called a rabbit.

 

[GB32Patience]

Thanks Dave!
Definitely will be running the hammer over the deck but pulling some cores as well. Hoping that the sub-deck is solid as I have much labor ahead of me and as much as I know how to approach a rotted core deck... I don't have time allotted for that task.... we will see... not going to cover over bad. and yes, those rabbets were an interesting approach... allowed the laying of the deck without spacers for the caulk lines... may be standard approach but the removal of the teak decks in this way seems to be a little non-standard.... life as it is.... Bruce

 

[GB32Patience]

Deck photo

For reference, a few initial "core samples". Initial will be hammer sounding but I dont mind dropping in these tests as I will be fairing and epoxy coating the entire deck prior to surface replace so a few more holes to fill, NP.... also heating up under the deck to dry out extraneous moisture.

I love an old boat!

 

[GB32Patience]

Use of CEPS

Sorry.... last but not least. I am a big fan of Epoxy Base followed by high quality varnish of your choice. It was a daunting job stripping and prepping the cap (second season) and standing rail (first season in the basement!) on Patience so did a bit of research. My technology of choice was West 105 Epoxy/207 Clear Hardener, 2 coats, followed by 3-4 coats Epifantes Gloss Varnish. A good bet as both vendors seem to "bless" this combo approach with the other product.

Yep, I have heard the horror stories but it seems to work for me as well as Syjos as posted earlier. Agreed, the need to cure and sand the epoxy prior to going to the Varnish but the fact that you can build multiple epoxy coats w/o sanding balances that.

Regarding the longevity, we will see, but with our "shorter" seasons up north plus a "maintenance coat" every year or two... we expect to go for awhile.

Regarding the absorption of a penetrating epoxy, although the 105 is not a penetrating epoxy, an acetone wipe down of the prepared surface will help get that initial "bite" into the surface. A little warm on the epoxy also thins it a bit for better penetration but that a fine balance as well....

quick shots of product.... top rail reflecting white streaks... actually pretty clear.