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Old 09-14-2019, 07:16 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by dave52 View Post
I got a price to remove, glass and paint the decks on my '73 gb 42 for $15,000 in cape Canaveral FL. Painted with tuff coat for $600 myself. Two years later my creme colored no skid surface looks great. I know many consider what I did a very bad idea but I would do it again in heart beat. Clean, prime, paint with roller. Enough left over to touch up the high traffic areas which I have not had to do. Comes in a rainbow of colors. No regrets. My teak was in decent shape, some minor+ leaks, but cost of refinishing/ calking was just not rational. Tuff coat holds up well on fuel spills and also eliminated my leaks.

Before and after pics please?
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Old 09-14-2019, 11:23 AM   #22
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Save yourself a ton of dollars and do the labor yourself. Itís not difficult just time consuming. I agree with some above 15 to 20 thousand if you get someone else to do it highly dependant on the extent of the rot. I did the entire upper deck myself...itís just demolition and rebuild. Nothing beyond basic carpentry and some fibreglass work which is easy. Pictures in my albums on this site.
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Old 09-14-2019, 05:32 PM   #23
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I agree with Tangler.
You will "bond" with your boat in the process !
From the pictures you will see I removed the spongy top skin in my cockpit (approx 70 sq. ft.) took out the rotted core, and sanded down to the bottom skin, which I completely saturated with epoxy, cut and dry-fitted marine plywood cut into 2 x 4 squares. Removed and epoxied every piece seperatly then fitted them back into another bed of epoxy resin. When finished I gave all the joints a epoxy spread, then epoxied the top skin in place. This took time as I did individual pieces. After the top skin was secure, I faired out the seams, sanded, and used Tuff Kote with non skid included. To make it look even better I cut and placed Plastix teak squares to finish. Materials approx $300.00. Time; An enjoyable 55 hours. You can park a tank on it !
If I knew how I would post pictures !!
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Old 09-14-2019, 05:35 PM   #24
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Yes, it is certainly doable without a lot of practice. It is just hard work physically but not technically.
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Old 09-14-2019, 05:55 PM   #25
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By the way, Mrs Captain was also a huge help with the labor and general support. I replaced the upper deck and recalked the teak on the lower decks.
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Old 09-14-2019, 08:47 PM   #26
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Gluvit is cheap! I painted mine with the stuff, then two coats of brown paint and non skid. Looks fine and no leaks.
I look at this way. A 41 year old CHB is only going to be worth a finite amount of money regardless how much money I throw at it, within reason of course. The teak is in good shape, but there were a couple of leaks forward that would run aft and into my bunk!! Not good.
I fixed the leaks by refastening a few screws and running penetrating epoxy into the holes before re screwing. That actually stopped the leak, but I figured just Gluvit the whole thing and be done with it. I am satisfied with the result. Others MMV.
This pix shows the side deck. I had taken several pix right after doing it, but they are gone.
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Old 09-15-2019, 07:38 AM   #27
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I did find some pics that were really not taken as before and after unfortunately I don't know how to post them. It is good stuff, really covers well, affordable and for me at 15:1 worth the risk of less than $1000. I figured I could still always rip the teak out.
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Old 09-15-2019, 08:02 AM   #28
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Looks great, and if you beat the leak... Perfect. Your comments on your boat only being worth only so much no matter how much you invest in it are right on. I have a 73 42' gb that will never be worth half of what I have into it. Just put a bow thurster on it... I love it, will make it easier to sell someday but not really increase the value. My boat is not an investment, it is an extreme expense that the admiral and I enjoy together.
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Old 09-15-2019, 08:34 AM   #29
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Has anyone done the ďrough workĒ- remove teak, remove core, replace core, epoxy all the right things/places - but have a pro so the top skin and finish? Iím not that good with the fine details.....
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Old 09-15-2019, 09:23 AM   #30
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Gmarr..explore this forum...you will find lots of repair stories. Like I said ...basic carpentry and time...just keep bashing away at it. Not all trawlers have a ‘core’. Mine is all hardwood framing 2.5” square. I pulled out several soft spots and laminated and epoxied, fiberglassed and then had a pro do the gel coat...I probably could have done that too.
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Old 09-23-2019, 11:46 AM   #31
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Thanks so much for the great advice. Iíve done this work before, including digging out old caulk and recaulking a 40 ft sailboat( during a Texas summer!), and ripping up and repairing the plywood core on bow of a 37 sailboat :-). Iím totally over that :-) .

Will keep an ear out for someone who has had this done, and would recommend the yard/contractor. Until then, Iíll do some patch repairs and keep her under canvas as much as possible.

Thanks again to all who took the time to give their advice and experience.
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Old 09-23-2019, 12:40 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gmarr View Post
Has anyone done the ďrough workĒ- remove teak, remove core, replace core, epoxy all the right things/places - but have a pro so the top skin and finish? Iím not that good with the fine details.....
It isnít that hard to do the finish work. I used Kiwigrip as a nonskid paint. It is great. You can get a fairly smooth finish all the way up to 1/4Ē nonskid depending on what roller you use and how you roll it. With Kiwigrip I just get it faired one time with thickened epoxy and then clean the epoxy rough sand it and paint. It is also easy to repair it if you need to. I didnít do a glass repair properly on my swim platform. I just used mat to repair it and it cracked open again. I sanded off the Kiwigrip did the repair with 1708 and then repainted with Kiwigrip. It took a few months but the color faded a bit and now you canít tell where the repair was. Kiwigrip will cover minor cracks such as stress cracking without having to grind them out and glass the crack.
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