Teak swim step refurb.

[CharlieO.]

Recommended finish for the swim step after I get it all rehabed. Thanks.

New to the boat maintenance world so trying to get up to speed on proper products to use.

 

[Comodave]

I like Semco dealer. It doesn’t last as long as some other finishes but it doesn’t build up so you don’t have to remove it, just reapply another coat as needed. It is really quick to apply.

 

[BruceK]

I used Deks Olje #1. Surprisingly long lasting after the initial saturation. It looked good and needed only a refresh every 3-6 months.

 

[Comodave]

The Semco lasted a year here, probably 6 months in a hot climate.

 

[healhustler]

I use Semco on the veranda & cap rail. The life expectancy here is more like 4 months. Prefer the tinted though.

 

[Comodave]

I use Semco on the veranda & cap rail. The life expectancy here is more like 4 months. Prefer the tinted though.

But it is so easy to reapply that it isn’t too much of a pain to do. We could do the sundeck on our last boat in about 40 minutes.

 

[CharlieO.]

So you didn't use a clear coat on it? Are the teak cleaners worth it? I'm not worried about cleaning the swimstep, I'm partially disassembling that to do repairs and I have been sanding it. Just taking notes for the handrail and window frames for a future date.

Thanks

 

[jleonard]

I always used Cetol on mine. It always lasted a season, sometimes 2 in New England.
I also added grit after the first coat then applied a second and/or third.
The grit was enough to prevent slipping but not so aggressive that it hurt my feet.

 

[koliver]

So you didn't use a clear coat on it? Are the teak cleaners worth it? I'm not worried about cleaning the swimstep, I'm partially disassembling that to do repairs and I have been sanding it. Just taking notes for the handrail and window frames for a future date.

Thanks

When I bought my boat, a 1980 Taiwanese gem, like yours, I was concerned about all of the bare teak, the decks on the boat and the swim grid. I tried a variety of products on both, and quickly learned that the advice of others to "let it go gray" was the best approach.
It is easy to see that sanding removes material, so if you want to keep the boat for a long time, you will eventually need to replace the boards that have been sanded too much and can no longer perform their designed function. What isn't so easy to see is that the two part "teak cleaners" remove as much wood with every application, though not as evenly as sanding. The colour of newly sanded teak is the perfect colour, alas is not one that can be preserved without either damaging the teak by sanding or using harsh chemicals. Oils like Deks Olje will temporarily hold that colour, but will require frequent re-coating and eventually a renewed sanding or chemical treatment to return to a "new" appearance.
After roughly 10 years, I added 13" of new teak to my swimgrid, to make it much more useful that its original skinny width allowed, and at that time I flipped the whole swimgrid over, thus presenting a new surface uniformly. I sanded and varnished the underside, which made keeping it clear of dirt, slime, green growth etc. required only a short blast with the power wash every haulout. It doesn't yet need any further attention. The exposed top side has had no treatment whatsoever, and gets wet whenever the boat moves at hull speed. It looks the same today as it has since it went "gray" within the first year, some 17 years ago. No noticeable amount of teak has worn away in that time, so I can and do expect it to last the remaining life of the boat without further treatment.
One other advantage is that I have good traction when wet, which I consider an important feature in that location.

 

[Comodave]

So you didn't use a clear coat on it? Are the teak cleaners worth it? I'm not worried about cleaning the swimstep, I'm partially disassembling that to do repairs and I have been sanding it. Just taking notes for the handrail and window frames for a future date.

Thanks

No, with Semco I just sanded it first and then put on a coat of Semco. Waited about half an hour maybe, read directions, and then put on a second coat. Then the next year put on a coat. Very easy. But we are in Michigan so the boat is in storage for half the year. Nice thing is how quick and easy it is to recoat. Swim platform should be really fast since no caulk lines to wipe off. Don’t want it sitting on the caulk as it will soften the caulk.

 

[RonR]

I stripped our old one and used Perfection Plus varnish.
It stood up to fishing/kids/dogs/salt and sun.
I would not recomend doing this unless you add some walnut shell or sand in the last coat if you plan on using it to enter the boat as with just a little water on it, its very slippery. But man it looks good.

Next time around on the new boat I will use the same system. But will add in some walnut shell for traction.