Teak deck replaced with fibreglass

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craighardy1

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Feb 19, 2012
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Hello; I own a 38' Grand Mariner, similar to a CHB. The deck is teak, secured with thousands of screw holes. I keep the boat in the Vancouver, Canada area. My question is* Has anyone on this forum have any experience with replacing the decks, or know of anyone that could do that job?

Thanks, Craig Hardy, crghardy@
 
Lots of people have done it and there is lots of information on how to do it right on various boating forums. It's a topic that has been discussed in detail many times on the GB owners forum grandbanksowners.com/ You may have to join the forum to access the archives but joining is free. Several people on the GB forum have done this and replaced the original teak with several options, from a fiberglass, painted non-skid surface to artificial "teak" surfaces, to re-teaking.

Done properly it's a big job and if you hire it out, can be very expensive. It is certainly possible to do it yourself if you have the time, tools, and willingness to learn to do it right. If the teak is to be replaced by a fiberglass non-skid deck it usually requires additional layers of glass be put down over the subdeck after the teak has been stripped off and the subdeck surface prepared. The reason is that the teak adds stiffness (not necessarily strength which is not the same thing), and that stiffness should be restored after the teak is gone. Two layers of glass matte and resin over the subdeck tends to be the typical application.

Depending on the actual condition of your deck, it is also possible to overhaul the teak deck. This subject, too, is discussed many times and in great detail on the GB forum. We did this on our own boat and its now-39-year-old teak deck is still going strong although it has been oversanded by previous owners and needed a lot of work when we bought the boat.* We treat it well and take care of it properly these days, because if we let it deteriorate again I doubt it could be brought back again.

A fellow on our dock replaced the teak deck on his Island Gypsy with a fiberglass deck over the subdeck and a painted-on non-skid surface. The end result looks better than if the factory did it and the deck is so strong you could probably land a plane on it. He did all the work himself, got the advice of several shipwrights before he started, and it took him one and a half summers of almost daily work to complete the job. When I complimented him on how good it looked he said that had he known how much work was going to be involved in doing it--- and he did it correctly: there are lots of "quick fixes" you can do that will eventually fail--- he said he never would have attempted the project.

Like everything else in boating, you can do it very poorly, you can do it perfectly, or you can do it somewhere in between. This guy, according to some shipwright and marine engineer acquaintances I've talked to who are familar with or helped him with the project, did it perfectly.* And as such, it probably added a fair amount of value to his particular boat.

*


-- Edited by Marin on Monday 20th of February 2012 07:23:52 PM
 
Thanks for the advice, Marin

I do know how much work is involved in doing this project, and know its something that I need professional help with. That was really my question. Can anyone reccomend someone in the lower mainland of BC to do this job? Thanks again
 
Try Philbrooks over in Sidney. It's not the mainland but it's not that far away from it, and they have the reputation of being one of the best yards on the entire west coast, not just BC.
 
Bring many many boat bucks , this is a time intensive job!
 
FF wrote:
Bring many many boat bucks , this is a time intensive job!
*Amen to that if you have a yard do it.* This is why a fair number of people attempt it themselves.* Some are successful, like our neighbor with the Island Gypsy.* Some are not and end up with a deck that considerably devalues the boat from an aesthetic standpoint if nothing else.
 
"Some are not and end up with a deck that considerably devalues the boat from an aesthetic standpoint if nothing else."

This work , and risk is why there are so many "cheap" used boats.
 
Old Stone wrote:
This summer had a 34 Mainship come into the marina that had just had the decks redone before the purchase by the new owner. Was like a new boat. Cost........$15,000 USD. That's for the decks, not the boat. If you started with a vessel that was otherwise very good, it might be worth it. If there are other problems, the list and cost may not be worth the vessel.
Carl:

Do you know the extent of the work done for $15k?* Just re-teaking?* Rip out the core and replace?
 
Old Stone wrote:BaltimoreLurker wrote:

*
Old Stone wrote:
This summer had a 34 Mainship come into the marina that had just had the decks redone before the purchase by the new owner. Was like a new boat. Cost........$15,000 USD. That's for the decks, not the boat. If you started with a vessel that was otherwise very good, it might be worth it. If there are other problems, the list and cost may not be worth the vessel.
Carl:

Do you know the extent of the work done for $15k?* Just re-teaking?* Rip out the core and replace?


*

Reteaking wasn't even involved. Just replacing or reinforcing the cored or fiberglass decks, which would only be the FIRST step in reteaking of the decks. Without fixing the subdeck, any replacement of teak is a waste of energy. I have as traditional a boat as you can get, and eventually have to address my teak decks, but do not consider it essential to include reteaking as part of the project. If you can, visit as many boats as you can. You will find you likely don't miss the teak surface. On the other hand, if you felt you must have the teak back after the subdeck is repaired, products like teakdeck are nice, mainly because they glue down. If I was to fix my decks, I would never put another screw hole in them. Just my opinion.

*Agree 100%.* Just ripped the teak off my flybridge, cut out the back to back (sorta molded but not quite) seats and tossed them.... lifting the flybridge fairing*off today...plan on 3 continuous sheets of epoxy and glass to cover EVERY hole in the cabin top as I'll glass the flybridge fairing back down....every hole*except for the wire/cable run that is and I''l improve that too.

Without those rediculous seats up there... the flying bridge looks huge and nicely uncluttered :)

I think for up there I'm just repainting the whole area with slight non-skid and put down a nice* full piece of hemmed*outdoor carpeting.* The carpet will add insulation, provide great traction and hide any imperfections in my glasswork on a 8'X12' area!!!


-- Edited by psneeld on Thursday 23rd of February 2012 08:22:49 AM
 
Old Stone wrote:BaltimoreLurker wrote:

*
Reteaking wasn't even involved. Just replacing or reinforcing the cored or fiberglass decks, which would only be the FIRST step in reteaking of the decks. Without fixing the subdeck, any replacement of teak is a waste of energy. I have as traditional a boat as you can get, and eventually have to address my teak decks, but do not consider it essential to include reteaking as part of the project. If you can, visit as many boats as you can. You will find you likely don't miss the teak surface. On the other hand, if you felt you must have the teak back after the subdeck is repaired, products like teakdeck are nice, mainly because they glue down. If I was to fix my decks, I would never put another screw hole in them. Just my opinion.
Cool.* Teak is beautiful but a PITA I can live without. I have to eventually do something about my decks (and house and flybridge) and I'm in a years long info gathering mode.* ~$15k to have my decks overhauled .... hmmmm, time vs. money. You know how it is ... when you have the time you don't have the money, when you have the money you don't have the time.

Thanks

*
 
Hey Old Stone..Carl...call me at 609-780-2728 best after 7pm...way too much to type at this point.

Hard to imagine the holes to the fairing are the cause if you have/had teak decking...that's where my primary concern is...but if I'm going through that much trouble...whats another week of work???* Ouch!!!!

But for everyone else....my bridge fairing is screwed to two small ridges and a few wooden blocks as backers all the way around.* Here's a good idea on what I plan to do..

http://albinrestoration.blogspot.com/

I plan to fill in every hole except the wiring run down below and epoxy the fairing to the bridge deck and exterior.* As long as your bridge fairing is watertight...then there's no reason to fool with underneath it.

I just want to strip the fairing inside and out and start fresh...too many boaters keep adding stuff without ever thinking of the future...my bane in buying used boats...the idiots that come before!!!!!!* Oooops...designers are just as bad...but they have an excuse of time limits and price points... :)

*

The wood trim on the outside will be a loss but the look achieved by the link I put above shows that a nice stripe is just as pretty without the varnishing or leaking issues..* Taking out the seats allows me to open up the fairing to store fishing rods in the sides and have good access to the handrails and antennas that get bolted on the sides.



-- Edited by psneeld on Thursday 23rd of February 2012 10:43:34 AM



-- Edited by psneeld on Thursday 23rd of February 2012 10:45:25 AM



-- Edited by psneeld on Thursday 23rd of February 2012 10:46:06 AM


-- Edited by psneeld on Thursday 23rd of February 2012 10:47:34 AM
 

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