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Old 04-17-2018, 11:43 PM   #21
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Darren, do you have a copy of your article as a PDF as I would love to read it but can't find it on their site.
Thanks
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Old 04-18-2018, 08:12 AM   #22
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I second:
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Originally Posted by rochepoint View Post
Darren, do you have a copy of your article as a PDF as I would love to read it but can't find it on their site.
Thanks
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Old 04-18-2018, 09:51 AM   #23
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Quote:
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Darren, do you have a copy of your article as a PDF as I would love to read it but can't find it on their site.
Thanks
Yes, I'll link it here. But you can click on the individual images and they will enlarge to full screen for reading. Well, in theory anyway...
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Deck Repair Kiwi Grip Article.pdf (3.48 MB, 67 views)
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Old 04-18-2018, 09:59 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rochepoint View Post
Darren, do you have a copy of your article as a PDF as I would love to read it but can't find it on their site.
Thanks
Mike:

I had no trouble downloading from the attachment, though it had to be done one page at a time. It saved as a .jpg
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Old 04-18-2018, 10:06 AM   #25
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Mike:

I had no trouble downloading from the attachment, though it had to be done one page at a time. It saved as a .jpg
Hi Keith
Yes I did download the jpg's but a pdf reads and stores so much nicer, thanks Darren for the pdf.
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Old 05-20-2018, 10:00 PM   #26
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Soo my caulk is cracked, a few plugs are missing, and the wood itself has a few cracks.
The decks aren't in bad shape though, no curled up ends or anything.
I was thinking of removing the caulking, replacing missing plugs, taping it off, and pouring thinned resin into the caulk lines/cracks on the deck... basically the same idea as the creepingt crack cure glue.
Then recaulk and sand the decks.
Ideally I'd sand layer of resin off the top sides (along with excess caulking) to keep the teak surface.
In my mind this would add strength by completely attaching the planks to the deck, and stopping water from intruding.
Which kind of resin would you use for this? Epoxy seems about double the price but the main drawback seem like it may be too think to creep into all the cracks and under the planks where water gets in.
I'd like whatever I use to be as close to as thin as water as possible
I was going to experiment first on the lazarette doors to make sure this idea is even feasible.
Your situation sounds very similar to mine. Do you have some results from your experiment on the launderette doors? I am a bit bewildered as to how to start attacking the problem.
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Old 05-20-2018, 10:25 PM   #27
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Has anyone had luck with this product? Captain Tolley - Find and Fix Leaks
I am trying it. Rain pretty good and the leak was in a different spot... got to love boats, finding the where the leak stated.
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Old 05-21-2018, 12:22 AM   #28
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Has anyone had luck with this product? Captain Tolley - Find and Fix Leaks
I am trying it. Rain pretty good and the leak was in a different spot... got to love boats, finding the where the leak stated.
Yes I have had some luck with that product around windows I do not think it's really appropriate for a deck though
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Old 05-21-2018, 12:23 AM   #29
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Your situation sounds very similar to mine. Do you have some results from your experiment on the launderette doors? I am a bit bewildered as to how to start attacking the problem.
I actually started around the top of the v-berth around the hatch area it may be too soon to tell I still need to sand the cock
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Old 05-21-2018, 12:26 AM   #30
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I actually started around the top of the v-berth around the hatch area it may be too soon to tell I still need to sand the cock
That may be somewhat painful...
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Old 05-21-2018, 12:31 AM   #31
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Lol caulk.
But seriously I'm having a mental battle if using the $16/tube TDS caulk is worth it, or if the $4/tube black weather proof stuff from HD is close enough, considering I've just poured nearly a gallon of epoxy into a few square feet of deck, I don't think it'll matter if the caulk fails early
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Old 05-21-2018, 04:34 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by Nopistn View Post
Lol caulk.
But seriously I'm having a mental battle if using the $16/tube TDS caulk is worth it, or if the $4/tube black weather proof stuff from HD is close enough, considering I've just poured nearly a gallon of epoxy into a few square feet of deck, I don't think it'll matter if the caulk fails early
Use the black PL roof and flashing polyurethane tube, cheap, it will last and you will like it and the price.
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Old 05-21-2018, 05:48 AM   #33
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Epoxy resin can be thinned with alcohol.

The alcohol "goes after" the wet areas so is a big help.

Extra hardener is required to have the epoxy cure with the alcohol.

Git Rot is a commercial brand that does this for you.
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Old 05-21-2018, 06:42 AM   #34
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This is good caulk. Softer than 5200 but very similar. It does work underwater even if they say not recommended.
Roof and Flashing Polyurethane Sealant from Loctite Adhesives
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/PL_SEAL_RF_tds.pdf

This is also good caulk, it will shrink but is a little cheaper. It will make a harder rubber than the Loctite caulk. Do not use it underwater.

DYNAFLEX 230 Premium Indoor/Outdoor Sealant - DAP

Easy cleanup with water.
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Old 05-21-2018, 09:49 AM   #35
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This is good caulk. Softer than 5200 but very similar. It does work underwater even if they say not recommended.
Roof and Flashing Polyurethane Sealant from Loctite Adhesives
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/tds/PL_SEAL_RF_tds.pdf

This is also good caulk, it will shrink but is a little cheaper. It will make a harder rubber than the Loctite caulk. Do not use it underwater.

DYNAFLEX 230 Premium Indoor/Outdoor Sealant - DAP

Easy cleanup with water.
That dynaflex 230 is exactly what I found and used from HD. It's much thinner and a lighter color (almost gray) than the tea caulk
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Old 05-21-2018, 09:54 AM   #36
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The left 1/3 is TDS caulk, the right 2/3 is the 230 from HD
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20180520_143309.jpg  
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Old 05-23-2018, 11:31 AM   #37
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After some sanding. In the boatworks today video he used a random orbit sander, which is what I started with, then went to a belt sander after making slow progress.
In the boatworks video he sanded after removing old caulk, and again after the new caulk dried. Is there any real advantage to doing it that way? I only sanded applying new caulk.
As you can see the TDS caulk did MUCH BETTER than the dynaflex 230 from home depot. It had more air bubbles and was much softer after 2 days and didn't sand as well.
The TDS caulk is on the left and the Dynaflex is on the right, I need to try to go back over it to make it look decent, sanding either exposed a lot of air bubbles, or tore very soft caulk out of the seams. (Probably a little of both)
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Old 05-23-2018, 11:34 AM   #38
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This is the dynaflex
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Old 05-23-2018, 12:23 PM   #39
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Sanding before gets the top edges cleaned up so the caulk has clean wood to stick to at the top edge. With old residue or crud on the top edge you might not get a good solid bond at the top. I don't think its necessary to sand the whole board, but if you just do the tops of the edges you risk making a valley on each seam. It could wind up making even more sanding to try and get things flat.
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Old 05-23-2018, 12:24 PM   #40
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Bummer on the bubbles. When we redid our decks, we put the tubes of caulk in the sun for a couple hours before we redid the seems. This helped reduce the air bubbles and it flowed easily. After using the random orbital, we went back and filled any bubbles. We then did the final sanding a couple days later with a 1/2 sheet sander with 100 grit.
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