Teak Deck ????

[Giggitoni]

Here I’m contributing to internet lore..! I have a GB42. In the 14 years I’ve paid attention, I know of four 42s that have had their decks replaced (old removed and new teak cut and laid with a bazillion screws). The work, in all four cases, was performed on the East coast of the United States at professional boat yards. The costs range from $32k to $41k.

 

[JLD]

There is an interesting post from 2018 on the Grand Banks sub-forum related to one owners cost to pull up his teak decks and NOT replace them.

The post (#14) reads in part:

"Just did a teak deck removal on our Grand Banks 49 last winter. I did it myself with the help of an experienced shipwright. The goal was to remove all of the old teak, fill all of the screw holes with epoxy, apply multiple coats of white gel coat, mask off for "islands" of non-skid, and apply two coats of Durabak non-skid. Describing it is the easy part but the devil is in the details. Total labor time was approximately 280 hours; 70 hours of mine; and 210 hours for the shipwright at $60/hour. Materials, supplies and tools were about $2,000 for a total cost of around $15,000."

The post would seem to suggest that there was NO fiberglass repair needed to the decks in this example.

Jim

 

[Giggitoni]

Wish I could find an experienced shipwright for $60 per hour. I’d let him live on my boat! Most of them around here are twice that.

 

[markpierce]

Labor at the boatyard I use bills labor at $130 and $135 an hour.

 

[BruceK]

People have been saying that replacing teak decks is "not that expensive" if you DIY, or "very expensive" if you pay to have it done. So, anyone want to put some real numbers to these rather vague statements?


Let's say a 40' trawler with teak all the way around and on the sundeck. Any "neighborhood" estimates of what it would cost to pull up and replace? Let's assume, for the sake of argument, that there is no core wetness (even though it seems that is actually a pretty good probability).

Close to 30K AUD in 2012 for 36ft boat to remove all teak,add 2 layers of glass on the bow section and paint, add 1 layer on the side decks and cockpit and glue down fresh teak, with necessary fairing to get a good surface.
The deck substrate sandwich material was foam, only included repairs were a section of rotted teak core about 2 ft square both sides fwd of the "step up' to the bow, and some core repair under the main bow cleat incl. dropping the headliner for access.
Hope that helps. Back then the AUD and USD were fairly similar,(though not now).

 

[Transpac]

"We" (husband and a helper) pulled up the teak deck on our 32' trawler. We spent about $1,500 on labor.

-------
Kate

 

[Comodave]

People have been saying that replacing teak decks is "not that expensive" if you DIY, or "very expensive" if you pay to have it done. So, anyone want to put some real numbers to these rather vague statements?


Let's say a 40' trawler with teak all the way around and on the sundeck. Any "neighborhood" estimates of what it would cost to pull up and replace? Let's assume, for the sake of argument, that there is no core wetness (even though it seems that is actually a pretty good probability).

I don’t know what a yard would charge but it would be staggering. As to DIY costs, labor would be zero and materials probably under $1K depending on if you have to lay more layers of glass on top of the existing deck for strength. Then probably another thousand for materials.

 

[armando]

Evening Gentlemen, I am in search of my first Trawler. Went and looked at a 1984 De Fever 41 over the weekend, the interior is in excellent shape no signs of leaks around the windows or from the decks. The decks feel solid while walking around the boat. My question is about the Teak deck (I know nothing other than what I've read ) its self . The planks appear to be about 1/2" - 5/8" thick from what I could measure but hey need some love. Caulking needs to be re done in a lot of areas and re grooved in a few small areas. Screws reset and new bungs in some areas. Question is how many years or sand and caulk good I get? Hope the pictures show up.

We have same look as your teak. Lot of problems with water. We caulk it several times but the best it was to eliminate teak in some place and substitute by awl grip paint done by a professional.Now looks new. Solarium and flybridge. (10k)
In other part, in order to maintain the elegance of the teak we take out all the teak en redo with a new one. The fore deck (6K), the sides and the stern (8k).
The job of maintain it should be done monthly if you want to have it perfect.
Good luck.

 

[Bryant]

Teak Deck

Evening Gentlemen, I am in search of my first Trawler. Went and looked at a 1984 De Fever 41 over the weekend, the interior is in excellent shape no signs of leaks around the windows or from the decks. The decks feel solid while walking around the boat. My question is about the Teak deck (I know nothing other than what I've read ) its self . The planks appear to be about 1/2" - 5/8" thick from what I could measure but hey need some love. Caulking needs to be re done in a lot of areas and re grooved in a few small areas. Screws reset and new bungs in some areas. Question is how many years or sand and caulk good I get? Hope the pictures show up.

As you can see, I own a GB 36. My first criteria when searching for a boat was that it had to have had the team deck removed and professionally filled, glassed and painted. If you find the boat of your dreams that is satisfactory in all other respects then buy it and budget for removing the teak decks yourself. Otherwise, keep searching. Just my opinion. Good luck.

 

[JimW]

As you can see, I own a GB 36. My first criteria when searching for a boat was that it had to have had the team deck removed and professionally filled, glassed and painted. If you find the boat of your dreams that is satisfactory in all other respects then buy it and budget for removing the teak decks yourself. Otherwise, keep searching. Just my opinion. Good luck.

IMO, teak decks are like swimming pools, nice to have a neighbor with them. Purchased a 1988 DeFever 41 with teak on the decks and flybridge, first item on the list was to take them out. Had all the holes filled, soft spots repaired and went back with slick coat and non-skid. Did add plasti-teak on top of the raised cabin on the bow and runway on the aft cabin to the flybridge for accents.

Standing by -
JimW
mv_classea

 

[Alisske]

I did a teak deck 25 years ago using the West System method where 5/16 thick teak slats are glued down using blackened/thickened epoxy which becomes the "caulking". I took a lot of ribbing at the dock for the non-conventional method at the time.
Now 25 yrs later, still going strong after kids, fishing, dogs, grandkids.
This method precludes any water getting into the deck through the screw holes and cuts the teak bill by 2/3. Ipe might be the wood to use today.

Hey brooksie. I did a small skiff myself a few years back and it’s holding up great. I did it as a practice run for redoing the decks on my 26 Downeaster boat. (I got a deal in a truckload of 5/4 Burmese teak boards, so the return on investment is worthwhile for me).

Where are you in the country. I’m up in NE, but wanted to know where you were to understand your decks durability. By region.

Thx

Thanks

 

[Dungeness]

Teak removal is no joke. I just finished removing all the teak decking from the aft, side, bridge and fore decks of my 49' DeFever.

The primary tools were a hole saw and screw driver (1200 screws!) on a cordless drill, a handy-bar and 2 lb sledge hammer. The really tough spots got the $39 vibrating saw treatment. Once you get the hang of it, progress is steady but brutal. The key thing on the Defever with it's foam core deck was to not damage the upper fiberglass skin when prying/cutting the teak away from the deck, with care I was able to remove all the decking with no damage to the gel-coated surface. Next it's a HD razor blade on a two-handed scraper to remove the caulking and then cleaning out screw holes with a chamfering bit. I used System 3 Rot Fix epoxy to fill screw holes with a syringe and when a leaking hole presented itself, I would roll up a little bit of paper towel to stuff in it so the epoxy wouldn't run out. This entire process took 13 mornings @ 4 hrs/day.

The DeFever didn't need any additional glass so I just used vinyl-ester filler to fair the deck and rolled on a coat of gelcoat. Turned out great, the stipple from the roller made for a non-slip surface and there was no taping required. Maybe later I will tape it off and make it fancy with some different colored gelcoat.

 

[Mako]

Wish I could find an experienced shipwright for $60 per hour. I’d let him live on my boat! Most of them around here are twice that.

Enjoy a nice sail to Ensenada. The shipyard rates are about $30 hr.

 

[Alisske]

[QUOTE
“The primary tools were a hole saw and screw driver (1200 screws!) on a cordless drill, a handy-bar and 2 lb sledge hammer. The really tough spots got the $39 vibrating saw treatment. Once you get the hang of it, progress is steady but brutal. The key thing on the Defever with it's foam core deck was to not damage the upper fiberglass skin when prying/cutting the teak away from the deck, with care I was able to remove all the decking with no damage to the gel-coated surface. Next it's a HD razor blade on a two-handed scraper to remove the caulking and then cleaning out screw holes with a chamfering bit. I used System 3 Rot Fix epoxy to fill screw holes “

Nice work. Folks tend to go “whole hog” on things like what you did and rip out stuff without consequence.

I learned that elbow grease and finesse are the best solutions most times with boats from my pop.

Very efficient as economic work. I don’t have a trawler (just 26 downeast). But if I had your boat I would follow your instructions.

It’s a thankless job, but wanted to recognize your approach.

Be well

 

[BruceK]

Teak removal is no joke. I just finished removing all the teak decking from the aft, side, bridge and fore decks of my 49' De Fever.....The De Fever didn't need any additional glass so I just used vinyl-ester filler to fair the deck and rolled on a coat of gelcoat. Turned out great, the stipple from the roller made for a non-slip surface and there was no taping required. Maybe later I will tape it off and make it fancy with some different colored gelcoat.

Great work!
FWIW, I was told, on TF,and by the shipwright,the extra fibreglass layer(s) are to replace the stiffness the removed teak provided (not sure I understand that) and to create a good sealed surface.

 

[SteveK]

Great work!
FWIW, I was told, on TF,and by the shipwright,the extra fibreglass layer(s) are to replace the stiffness the removed teak provided (not sure I understand that) and to create a good sealed surface.

Bruce, if you have ever seen a rescue of someone fallen through ice, they use a ladder to spread the weight. Think the same for teak over a thinner layer plywood is stiffened up.

 

[Comodave]

Some boats may need another layer or two of glass when the teak decks are removed, some may be fine just as they are. It depends on how the boat was built. If you remove the teak and the decks don’t flex under the regular load, then probably not needed. But if they flex then add a layer or two of 1708.

 

[koliver]

https://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmenView attachment 99551

View attachment 99552tid=99552&stc=1&d=1582081903

I see weathered teak, loose caulking, bungs missing or simply worn down to the level of the screw heads.

The immediate priority for this teak deck will be to remove all of the exposed screws, fill the holes with epoxy and top with new plugs. No New Screws. Replacement of the few feet of loose caulking is simple, but the fact that ist Those original screws were to get the teak boards aligned and held in place while the black Shyte they were bedded in sets up. That ship sailed many many years ago, so long as you don't repeat the slippery bedding issue, there is no need for screws. The replacement of loose caulking is easy. Look for a U-Tube on the subject or get instructions where you buy your supplies. Finally, if you are going to clean the teak with a chemical cleaner, be aware that those strippers take off as much wood as a vigorous sanding, so you won't want to do it very often. You say there is plenty of teak depth, so you can afford once to get a great looking result

 

[taketwo84]

Teak decks

I have a 1984 DeFever 41.. it’s a great boat. My teak decks look like the pictures you posted. I have one small leak near the hatch in the aft cabin. Sometimes it leaks and sometimes it doesn’t. I hang a bucket underneath it when it rains. I get a tablespoon or two of water in the bucket. I have heard that replacing the teak with fiberglass runs about $50,000.

 

[Comodave]

I have a 1984 DeFever 41.. it’s a great boat. My teak decks look like the pictures you posted. I have one small leak near the hatch in the aft cabin. Sometimes it leaks and sometimes it doesn’t. I hang a bucket underneath it when it rains. I get a tablespoon or two of water in the bucket. I have heard that replacing the teak with fiberglass runs about $50,000.

The longer you wait the more it will cost but $50K is way high IMO.

 

[BruceK]

I have a 1984 DeFever 41.. it’s a great boat. My teak decks look like the pictures you posted. I have one small leak near the hatch in the aft cabin. Sometimes it leaks and sometimes it doesn’t. I hang a bucket underneath it when it rains. I get a tablespoon or two of water in the bucket. I have heard that replacing the teak with fiberglass runs about $50,000.

Where is the water going the times you don`t see it leak? And some more of it, the times you do see it?

 

[BandB]

Teak removal is no joke. I just finished removing all the teak decking from the aft, side, bridge and fore decks of my 49' DeFever.

The primary tools were a hole saw and screw driver (1200 screws!) on a cordless drill, a handy-bar and 2 lb sledge hammer. The really tough spots got the $39 vibrating saw treatment. Once you get the hang of it, progress is steady but brutal. The key thing on the Defever with it's foam core deck was to not damage the upper fiberglass skin when prying/cutting the teak away from the deck, with care I was able to remove all the decking with no damage to the gel-coated surface. Next it's a HD razor blade on a two-handed scraper to remove the caulking and then cleaning out screw holes with a chamfering bit. I used System 3 Rot Fix epoxy to fill screw holes with a syringe and when a leaking hole presented itself, I would roll up a little bit of paper towel to stuff in it so the epoxy wouldn't run out. This entire process took 13 mornings @ 4 hrs/day.

The DeFever didn't need any additional glass so I just used vinyl-ester filler to fair the deck and rolled on a coat of gelcoat. Turned out great, the stipple from the roller made for a non-slip surface and there was no taping required. Maybe later I will tape it off and make it fancy with some different colored gelcoat.

I do have to ask why you removed it? A general question to others as well.

Why not keep it as a subflooring and lay a floor on top of it? I've seen that done on several occasions with very good results.

It's much like one has hardwood floors and wants to lay tile or carpet. Far easier just to go on top than to rip the hardwood up.