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10-23-2018, 11:59 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
City: Florida
Vessel Name: Lady Di
Vessel Model: 2012 Beneteau Swift Trawler 44
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 446
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Teak Caulk
The black rubber caulk between the teak strips has become loose in a few areas. Any idea on a good replacement caulk?
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10-24-2018, 12:14 AM
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#2
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Guru
City: Vallejo, California
Vessel Name: Mahalo Moi
Vessel Model: 1986 Grand Banks 42 Classic
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,053
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The only caulk I would consider is TDS SIS-440 made by Teak Decking Systems. As John Force says, “the guy in second place is the first looser”. Just my opinion. The World's Leader in Pre-Manufactured Custom Teak Decks - Teakdecking Systems®
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Ray
"Mahalo Moi"
1986 GB-42 Classic
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑβΕ
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10-24-2018, 01:09 AM
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#3
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TF Site Team
City: Au Gres, MI
Vessel Name: Black Dog
Vessel Model: Formula 41PC
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 15,804
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That is what I plan on using this off season on my teak decks. I got a multi tool blade from Jamestown Distributors to cut out the old caulk. Haven’t tried it yet so I am not sure how well it will work.
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10-24-2018, 01:12 AM
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#4
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Guru
City: Sydney
Vessel Name: Sojourn
Vessel Model: Integrity 386
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 12,281
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Not good after just 6 years. My teak was redone same year, I think using Sikaflex,and it`s not happening on my boat. Can you find out what Beneteau used, and use something else?
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BruceK
2005 Integrity 386 "Sojourn"
Sydney Australia
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10-24-2018, 07:14 AM
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#5
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Guru
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,611
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Giggitoni
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That is what I used also. Holding up well after 10 years.
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Jay Leonard
New Port Richey,Fl
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10-24-2018, 07:21 AM
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#6
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TF Site Team
City: Jacksonville
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 10,530
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Giggitoni
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jleonard
That is what I used also. Holding up well after 10 years.
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There’s nothing better.
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10-24-2018, 09:25 AM
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#7
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Guru
City: Miami Florida
Vessel Name: Possum
Vessel Model: Ellis 28
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 5,070
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Another vote for Teak Decking Systems. Nice folks, good products, give them a call.
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Parks Masterson
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10-24-2018, 11:16 AM
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#8
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Guru
City: Trenton
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 1,411
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TDS - everything else is just licorice.
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Al Johnson
34' Marine Trader
"Angelina"
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10-24-2018, 11:53 AM
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#9
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TF Site Team
City: Paris,TN
Vessel Name: Slo-Poke
Vessel Model: Jorgensen custom 44
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 3,727
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TDS here also . Just mask off everything you don’t want it on .
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Marty
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11-06-2018, 06:42 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
City: Florida
Vessel Name: Lady Di
Vessel Model: 2012 Beneteau Swift Trawler 44
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceK
Not good after just 6 years. My teak was redone same year, I think using Sikaflex,and it`s not happening on my boat. Can you find out what Beneteau used, and use something else?
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So, to be clear, you have good results with Silkaflex?
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11-06-2018, 07:44 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
City: Florida
Vessel Name: Lady Di
Vessel Model: 2012 Beneteau Swift Trawler 44
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 446
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Looks like TDS is where I'll go on this.
Thanks to all of you for your help. There are so many knowledgeable folks on TrawlerForum!
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11-06-2018, 09:25 AM
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#12
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Guru
City: Toms River
Vessel Name: V E N T U R E
Vessel Model: 1996 36' Island Gypsy Classic
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,319
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TDS Also--Mask off than pull masking off while caulk is still soft.
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11-06-2018, 10:36 AM
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#13
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TF Site Team
City: Jacksonville
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 10,530
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Eric: 5200 would work to bond teak to the deck but would not stand up if used as caulking for the seams. Polyurethanes caulks or adhesives do not stand up well to UV. Remember 3M 101 and now 3M 4000? Both have UV inhibitors which 5200 does not. Even West Marine says not to use 5200 to caulk decks.
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11-06-2018, 10:54 AM
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#14
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Guru
City: Concrete Washington State
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 18,447
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You’re right Larry.
Forgot about the UV factor.
TDS sound like the right product for the job.
But my comment about prep is sure to apply. How can one do a good job of cleaning deck seams?
I deleted the other post.
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Eric
North Western Washington State USA
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11-06-2018, 09:21 PM
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#15
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Guru
City: Sydney
Vessel Name: Sojourn
Vessel Model: Integrity 386
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 12,281
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rclarke246
So, to be clear, you have good results with Silkaflex?
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Yes,I did,still good 6 years on. I researched TDS when I was thinking rout and recaulk might suffice, before concluding I needed a total redo. I`m sure their product is a good choice,hope it goes well.
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BruceK
2005 Integrity 386 "Sojourn"
Sydney Australia
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11-07-2018, 09:59 AM
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#16
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Guru
City: Concrete Washington State
Vessel Name: Willy
Vessel Model: Willard Nomad 30'
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 18,447
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There is a caulk formulated specificly for teak applications.
“Life Caulk” I think it’s called. It says on the tube that it’s specifically formulated for teak.
Wouldn’t this be an obvious caulk for deck seams?
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Eric
North Western Washington State USA
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11-07-2018, 10:50 AM
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#17
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Guru
City: Miami Florida
Vessel Name: Possum
Vessel Model: Ellis 28
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 5,070
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Eric, Life Caulk is a fine deck sealant. It’s been on the market at least since the 1960’s. They do recommend that Teak seams be primed before application of Life Caulk.
I think Teak Decking Systems is somewhat more UV resistant than Life Caulk and it doesn’t require a primer to stick to Teak.
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Parks Masterson
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11-07-2018, 11:02 AM
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#18
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TF Site Team
City: Jacksonville
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 10,530
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomad Willy
There is a caulk formulated specificly for teak applications.
“Life Caulk” I think it’s called. It says on the tube that it’s specifically formulated for teak.
Wouldn’t this be an obvious caulk for deck seams?
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Eric: Interesting stuff. TDS was/is also formulated just for teak deck seams though. After looking, I see that that there are two different Life Caulk products for teak deak. The one part needs a proprietary primer, where the two part does not.
The first teak decks I caulked 30 years ago was with Detco, the gold standard at th time. It was a 2 part polysulfide. The stuff was as good as TDS but you had to mix it then put it in tubes. What a mess. If you over mixed it, you had air bubbles that didn’t float out. I think there’s a reason why they went out of business.
Here’s a little blurb on the Lfie Caulk.
When using one-part Life-Calk you must prime the seams first with Life-Calk Primer. This will seal the end grain from any escaping oil that will impede adhesion.
It is important that you use ONLY Life-Calk Primer for this application. Do not use a paint product such as red lead. These products are laden with oils that will produce the opposite results you are expecting and the Life-Calk will not stick to the teak. However, if you are using the Life- Calk Two-Part Type P or Teak Deck Sealant, primer is not needed as the primer is built into the product.
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11-07-2018, 02:19 PM
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#19
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TF Site Team
City: Saltspring Island
Vessel Name: Retreat
Vessel Model: C&L 44
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 5,086
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Life Caulk, 2 part.
A little fussy, as you need to mix and then fill tubes to use it in a caulking gun.
First place a bond breaker strip (looks like a cotton shoelace) in the bottom of the space between the teak boards, then fill to overflowing with the caulking.
After 20 years, still holding up very well.
__________________
Keith
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11-07-2018, 05:41 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
City: Beaufort, NC
Vessel Name: Shangri-La
Vessel Model: Grand Banks 42 Classic
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by koliver
Life Caulk, 2 part.
A little fussy, as you need to mix and then fill tubes to use it in a caulking gun.
First place a bond breaker strip (looks like a cotton shoelace) in the bottom of the space between the teak boards, then fill to overflowing with the caulking.
After 20 years, still holding up very well.
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I've seen reference to this before. I used SikaFlex to repair a few seams. There was no bond breaker strip in the original build. I did not use any in the replacement caulking. Is there a reason it's needed in the re-do? The teak strips are tongue and groove, so there is no place where the caulk gets to the actual deck, pure wood in the groove.
The repairs have held two years now with no issues. Just wondering. . .
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