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Old 11-07-2018, 06:15 PM   #21
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NightCrawler, the bond breaker tape prevents the caulk from adhering to the bottom of the seam. This allows the wood to move more without breaking the adhesion on the sides of the seam. TDS sells what looks to me like pin stripe tape as bond breaker tape.

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Old 11-07-2018, 07:22 PM   #22
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I've seen reference to this before. I used SikaFlex to repair a few seams. There was no bond breaker strip in the original build. I did not use any in the replacement caulking. Is there a reason it's needed in the re-do? The teak strips are tongue and groove, so there is no place where the caulk gets to the actual deck, pure wood in the groove.

The repairs have held two years now with no issues. Just wondering. . .
A bond breaker is used to allow expansion and contraction of the adjacent boards to occur without affecting the adhesion of the caulk to the separate boards. If the caulk is inhibited from moving with and stretching or compressing between the boards, due to adhesion to the substrate (sometimes one of the boards is also the bottom of the groove), it will tear away from one of the sides. bond breaker is to prevent this from happening.
See a good explanation from an expert here: https://baileylineroad.com/success-with-caulking/
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Old 11-07-2018, 09:49 PM   #23
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I tried Life Caulk years ago and did not have very good results. I admit that I didn’t have much experience with teak then and didn’t leave enough gap for caulk to flex and work like it needed to. When we did all the teak work on William and it was a bunch of it we used TDS. When I went to their site and saw the amount of teak decks they do and the quality of their woodwork I figured they new their stuff. They do way to much work to use something that’s not superior. They also were very helpful with our project .
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Old 11-08-2018, 09:58 AM   #24
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Thanks for the responses. I've read those articles. Was just curious why the original build does not include the tape.
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Old 11-08-2018, 10:37 AM   #25
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Thanks for the responses. I've read those articles. Was just curious why the original build does not include the tape.
They decided good was good enough. Didnít see the need to go for excellent. Iím sure the original caulk lasted many years. If they had installed the breaker tape, it would have lasted a few more years.
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Old 11-08-2018, 01:35 PM   #26
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With 95% of my original caulk intact, I assume that any missing / loose caulk will allow water intrusion, leading to trouble- like failure of the teak adhesion with the deck. Right?
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Old 11-08-2018, 02:15 PM   #27
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Yes but your deck doesn’t looked to be screwed down so water woul probably not penetrate the deck through a screw hole. I think I would just clean out the loose caulk areas. Clean the edges of the teak with some acetone and recaulk those areas.
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Old 11-09-2018, 03:14 PM   #28
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When I did some fix up this winter I almost didnít buy the TDS reefing knife. What a mistake that would have been.
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Old 11-11-2018, 03:46 AM   #29
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Go TDS and just follow the directions, outlasts most owners if applied correctly =)
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