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Old 11-24-2022, 10:31 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by DDW View Post
I fortunately have no exterior wood on the trawler, but teak caprails and eyebrows on the sailboat. These have always been done with Epifanes, but I am stripping them (13 years old) and converting to Awlspar (not Awlwood). You may want to experiment with it. It is a traditional tung oil/phenolic resin varnish, thinner from the can than Epifanes. The advantage that has won me over is the recoat interval is 3 hours, less if a bit warmer. That makes 3 coats a day possible vs. one for Epifanes. Also, no sanding necessary if recoated in <36 hours. I've tested some pieces, done 3 coats first day, 3 coats second day, wait 24 hours and sand to level any dust or problems, then 3 coats to finish. All done with a fine grained foam trim roller, no tipping, without thinning.

I've seen a couple of abject failures in my marina with Awlwood, suggesting that there may be tricks and/or it is unforgiving of mistakes in application. I've also seen some successes so it can work well.

Thanks for the tip, but that wouldn't change my protocol, as I usually get 3 coats of Epifanes in a day if I am doing a board that needs 3 new coats. A few times my third coat has been too late in the day and dew has dulled the finish, but as long as the last is allowed to dry before it gets too late in the day for adequate drying, Epifanes will be perfect in the morning.
In that analysis, Epifanes has a product they call "wood finish" that they say is designed to have the second coat applied when the first isn't really dry. I have tried that alongside their "varnish" and can't find any difference when both are applied on a tacky previous coat.
The same may be true for other good quality varnishes.
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Old 11-24-2022, 01:04 PM   #22
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Out of curiosity, can you describe the failures, including time-to-fail?
Guy across the pier from me had his teak professionally done two years ago with Awlwood. It looked pretty good to start with. After one year it was starting to lift and cloud, mainly at the edges and wood joints. This is about the end of year two and there are large areas lifted and clouded, it looks horrible.

I didn't see them do the application and perhaps mistakes or shortcuts were made. They did take it back to bare teak, and they did use the primer. I do not know what their experience with the product is. I do know that even a slap dash varnish job would look better than that and last longer. That's why I say there may be tricks with Awlwood, or perhaps it is finicky.

There are a couple of other boats on the dock with lifting and clouding Awlwood, I don't know as much about the particulars, but the owners confirmed that it was Awlwood. As I said, I've seen some other boats that look really good with Awlwood, and there are people that swear by it.
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Old 11-24-2022, 05:25 PM   #23
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The dark brown spots seem to indicate moisture intrusion. If I were a betting man I would bet the dark spots are near stanchions, cleats or other intrusions into the wood.

pete
Indeed,
I used oil (mostly, and oil and varnish) on our Willard.
The best quality I know of for cap rails is flexibility. Re what Pete says water leaks through cracks and fastener protrusions let water in under the finish film. Then it turns black. It not only looks bad … it is bad. And it gets worse.

I use McCloskie’s Spar varnish. It’s a high oil product that flex’s enough (most of the time) so there’s few black spots.

I evolved into using the Spar Varnish when we moved south to NW Washington State. In covered moorage the varnish can last 10 years even more. The couple I sold the boat to has her in open moorage now. Don’t know how she’s doing because she’s out under the PNW weather.

I usually use the many coats of oil as a primer. Dry out the last coat of thin oil, sand a bit and start w a light coat (mostly turpentine and thinner) then lay on the varnish.
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Old 11-28-2022, 03:02 PM   #24
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Hi all,

We have a 2001 GB Europa 52 with teak cap rails. The previous owner took exceptional care of them. He mentioned that I should apply a few coats of Awlwood every year. They look to be in great shape, but I don't know where to start. It appears in some areas the teak has developed a darkened tone to it which I don't remember from last season. We have had this boat for less than 2 years. I was going to take a video of the track rail caps last season, but it got away from me.

We would appreciate any advice anyone has on maintaining nicely Awlwooded teak rail caps.

Thanks - JimL
Lightly sand with 400 + 3 coats International brand Woodskin varnish 3 coats twice a year spring and fall. Blackened spots are under varnish moisture, strip down to bare wood and apply 6 coats over one week time sanding very lightly with 400 after each coat. Do not use any paint thinner at all.
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Old 11-28-2022, 03:20 PM   #25
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Teak varnish requires 2x coats per year. Better to remove damaged areas with heat gun, lighten with wood bleach / oxalic acid. Avoid sanding.
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Old 11-28-2022, 03:38 PM   #26
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Teak varnish requires 2x coats per year. Better to remove damaged areas with heat gun, lighten with wood bleach / oxalic acid. Avoid sanding.
There may be different opinions on that one. Often times a single gentleness of brightener removes essbthan sanding. But, if left longernirnused repeatedly it eats away softer material disproportionately, leaving a deep, coarse grain.

I hate removing wood, chemicallynor mechanically. But, whennI have to, unless thebwood is in really good shape and needs only a quick brightening, Inprefer sanding. I feel like I have more control over it. Thebwood stops disappearing the exact moment I stop sanding.
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Old 11-28-2022, 05:08 PM   #27
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I had Allwood on the cap rails when I had a GB. It was prepped and applied at the GB yard in Stuart, FL. I was told to wax the cap rails every 6 months with a good quality carnauba wax that did not contain any cleaners. I sold the boat 3 years later and the rails still looked great. I guess the wax keeps the moisture out.
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Old 11-28-2022, 05:21 PM   #28
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In June 2021 here in SW BC, we had a "heat dome". My rails suffered, as if someone had gone around with a heat gun, enough to bubble the varnish, not enough to break open any of the bubbles. I am not finished taking the bubbled sections back to bare wood and starting again. I am watching this thread, but so far haven't seen anything that would suggest moving from Epifanes varnish to Awlwood. The heat tolerance has not been mentioned. Anyoe have experience with Awlwood in high temps? The darkening happens with varnish too. Mine has not been taken down to wood since the second owner did so in 1988 (+-1yr). Bubble repairs have forced taking long sections down and the colour is much lighter.
Wow! That must have been some heat dome! Here in SE US, afternoon
temps in the sun can easily reach 125 deg F but I've never seen my Epiphanes bubble as you describe. It gradually loses its shine over the summer cruising season due to the sun. The base varnish remains stable, though gradually lightens in color over the first 2-3 yrs due to sun bleaching. 2-3 coats after a light sanding annually brings it back to like new. Perhaps something in the initial prep caused the bubbling later?
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Old 11-29-2022, 01:18 PM   #29
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The product mentioned is like most other polyurethanes- deficient in UV protection. I refinished boats professionally in Florida for 20 years and I've seen several instances where this finish had been applied as per the Manu instructions and failed. The finish doesn't fail necessarily, the sun bores through the finish and lightens the wood.
If you want a long lasting finish, build up coats of a regular varnish such as Epifanes and then apply one topcoat of Awlbrite 3 part polyurethane. Varnish has superior UV protection, but as a natural product it breaks down readily in sunlight. The one poly topcoat protects the underlying varnish layer.
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Old 11-29-2022, 02:40 PM   #30
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mickand,
How flexible is the top coat .. Awlbrite?
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Old 11-29-2022, 08:33 PM   #31
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So far as experience in high temperatures, if Florida won't do, it works well down here in Western Australia.
It was 37C here yesterday. Soon it'll be summer!
I have used Awlwood on external teak with considerable success. With reasonable care and proper application, three years is not out of the question. Touching up every year or two seems to work well.
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Old 11-30-2022, 12:00 AM   #32
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2 or 3 coats of west system 105 epoxy w the 207 clear hardner done day ond then then a few coats of varnish. Looks deep. Never have to go past epoxy to redo.
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Old 11-30-2022, 06:30 AM   #33
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Awlbrite, like most polyurethanes will be fairly inflexible if coats are built up. One coat of Awlbrite is sufficient to protect the underlying varnish layer and remains very flexible.
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