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Old 07-26-2018, 05:53 AM   #21
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Northern tool sells a decent wet blasting kit for $75.00 or so. I use it on a 3500psi power washer and it works great.



You can use play sand, but you have to filter the sand prior to use through a screen. I use the same screen material used in window screens. Bungee strap the screen around your five gallon bucket, and pour the sand in. Cheaper sand tends to have an occasional rock in it that will plug your blasting nozzle. Expensive sand can have the same rock issue, so I filter all my sand. The fabricated media such as glass or black beauty seems not to have the larger particle problem.



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Old 07-26-2018, 05:56 AM   #22
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The paint requirement to work is the metal must be blasted to "water white".


Sand blasting works well but the big boys use 40,000 psi water blasting to get the surface clean.


Commercial yards that service steel boats are the place to shop.


Perhaps a trip to the local fish boat yards might be productive?
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Old 07-26-2018, 07:56 AM   #23
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Air compressor, needle gun and ear plugs. Old school.
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Old 07-26-2018, 08:04 AM   #24
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Air compressor, needle gun and ear plugs. Old school.


Goggles, respirator at all?
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Old 07-26-2018, 08:12 AM   #25
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Yeah, Goggles, respirator, green side up.
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Old 07-26-2018, 08:23 AM   #26
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LeoKa,
Try Pat at Lattitude Marine in LaConner.
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Old 07-26-2018, 10:34 AM   #27
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Northern tool sells a decent wet blasting kit for $75.00 or so. I use it on a 3500psi power washer and it works great.
Conall

Is this the one?

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...0204_200660204

Great advice on the screening. Thanks.
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Old 07-26-2018, 11:16 AM   #28
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I'm not understanding. I get that wet blasting will keep the dust down but you still have the media and whatever you blast off your boat to clean up and you've added water. Can't imagine any yard letting a DIY make a potential mess like that. Also no way to recover and reuse the media like when dry blasting. And now that you've added water you're also speeding up the rate your bare steel will start to rust again. This is no small project, I have to believe you will either take forever using a little toy setup or need a tow behind a truck size setup and many hundreds of pounds of media to get it done in a reasonable amount of time. Pretty much a job for a pro.
If it was me I'd call around some shipyards and ask some questions and try to get some direction. Try Latitude in LaConner, Port Townsend, and if you don't mind BC, Shelter Island. Heck try Dakota Creek in Anacortes.
I remember Ironsides a friend of mine was the welder that built the box keel under it when it was at Quiet Cove.
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Old 07-26-2018, 11:25 AM   #29
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Pretty much a job for a pro.
If it was me I'd call around some shipyards and ask some questions and try to get some direction. Try Latitude in LaConner, Port Townsend, and if you don't mind BC, Shelter Island. Heck try Dakota Creek in Anacortes.
.
You are making some good points. I am new to this, so any opinion is greatly welcome. I will go to P.T. tomorrow and talk to the yard there.

PM sent about the welder.
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Old 07-26-2018, 12:10 PM   #30
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You add a corrosion inhibitor to the soap dispenser on the washer and no rust. Honestly gang, watch the videos and learn for yourselves.

Just use a shovel and put it in a container. Media is cheap so you don't need to reuse it and not having to totally surround/tarp/vent/filter your boat with wet blasting and no risk of silicosis is why you do it wet. To do dry sandblasting you need a huge investment in equipment, which is why you pay someone and why the costs are so high. The original poster wanted a cost-effective solution - re-read the posts. I am going to do my boat this fall.
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Old 07-26-2018, 12:40 PM   #31
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You add a corrosion inhibitor to the soap dispenser on the washer and no rust. Honestly gang, watch the videos and learn for yourselves.
So many videos on YTube. Do you have any favorites you could share?
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Old 07-26-2018, 01:56 PM   #32
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You can use play sand, but you have to filter the sand prior to use through a screen.
Conall

What would be your preference for media on steel hull? Crashed glass, walnut shell, or strained sand?
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Old 07-26-2018, 05:13 PM   #33
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I think you will need sand but I have not tried it yet so I can't report.
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Old 07-26-2018, 05:23 PM   #34
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Your media will be decided by the profile you need to leave on the metal to get the paint to stick. Sand will probably be too fine. Crushed glass is economical as is slag (Black Beauty). Garnet is probably the best but more pricey.
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Old 07-26-2018, 05:36 PM   #35
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OK, check this out, 2500 psi is IMHO, too wimpy but they seem happy with it...
I'm going boating, see you all later!

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Old 07-26-2018, 06:13 PM   #36
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Box keel

What makes my hull even more challenging is that the keel looks like a box. It has two 800/800 gallons tanks in there. The diver who cleaned the bottom couple weeks ago, gave me a video, which shows the bottom before and after cleaning. It will be interesting to see, when the boat is hauled out and I will find out that I won't be able to reach some corners with the wand.
I hope this will not be the case.
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Old 07-26-2018, 07:23 PM   #37
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dry ice ?

Here is a new one:

https://www.continentalcarbonic.com/boat-hulls.html
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Old 08-03-2018, 12:59 PM   #38
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Hello,
I suggest you reach out to a local "Dustless Blasting" company. You can see the effectiveness of this system on youtube. It is very cost effective and relatively eco friendly. If you cannot locate one locally you could reach out to Dustless Blasting and they could refer someone. The process uses media, most often glass, in a water stream which keeps the surface from heating up. This allows the media to work much more efficiently. It is really amazing to observe. Good luck!
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Old 08-03-2018, 02:17 PM   #39
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Are you talking inside bilges or outside hull?

I know the title says hull however our biggest problems were inevitably inside. And we (meaning Daddy) would cut out the plate and replace same.
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Old 08-03-2018, 02:43 PM   #40
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https://www.dustlessblasting.com/marine

One of the better systems. I had a couple early models. Probably too expensive for home ownership. You might look for someone with the equipment. Can be used on fiberglass and even wood with caution (reduced pressure, sharp angle). There is no overspray, no dust, media only travels a few feet. We used it many times inside hulls. It doesn't use a lot of water, so it can be captured. Plastic sheeting was laid down, made a berm by putting beams under the sheeting edge to hold the water. A 60' boat could have the bottom done and all the water used would be within the berm. In hot weather, little water was left, just the media and paint residue. Cleanup was done with a big wet vacuum and no sign of blasting could be seen after sheeting was rolled up.
I also had very high pressure water blasting, probably 25,000+ psi. Diesel driven pump. It used a lot of water that had to drain thru an expensive filtering system because there was no reasonable way to capture it all. It had to be tented. I sold it a month after getting the dustless blaster. Filtering waste water might be illegal by now.
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