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Old 10-15-2017, 07:02 AM   #21
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Ablative paints keep clean by boat motion thru the water , they may be a poor choice for a seldom moved boat.

"On the other hand, who knows what that Lake O water will do. It's a toxic sludge of chemicals right now, thanks to your friends big sugar. It may eat through the bottom of your boat."

This is beyond nonsense .

Hundreds of thousands of folks DRINK water from the lake area , and don't seem to be having problems .

From the Keys on up past Lake O' most of their drinking water comes from the Lakes aquifer.

Any fresh water may kill some of the sea water growth , if you are in fresh long enough.

Our boats at Ortona do not have growth problems , and a 2-3 week cruise in sea water does not create growth that doesn't leave on returning home.
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Old 10-15-2017, 08:06 AM   #22
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Does being in fresh water for two months have any negative effects on bottom paint when entering salt water again? Does it need to be sanded or "reactivated" somehow?
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Old 10-15-2017, 08:33 AM   #23
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Greetings,
Mr. c. It's my understanding that the effectiveness (activity) of anti-foul paint is unaffected by either salt or fresh water or travel between the two. Nothing needs be done if making the transition.
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Old 10-15-2017, 10:47 AM   #24
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Our boats at Ortona do not have growth problems , and a 2-3 week cruise in sea water does not create growth that doesn't leave on returning home.
Ortona seems to be a well kept secret. I think it combines hurricane shelter, surge immunity, salt water access, little traffic, and a fresh water environ for the hull.
I've spent over 50 years in FL, including flying/driving/hunting/diving/boating all over, and never heard of it. How's the real estate availablity these days?
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Old 10-15-2017, 11:37 AM   #25
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Here at the shipyard where I work we paint the bottoms of large yachts all the time. The first question the paint foreman has is, "What kind of paint is on the bottom now?" He wants to make sure that the new bottom paint will be compatible to the old bottom paint. For some of the larger boats if the current paint is not known, a sample of the old bottom paint is sent to Interlux or other paint manufacturer for analysis.
A little research on the manufacturers website might give you the right information.
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Old 10-15-2017, 11:52 AM   #26
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Here at the shipyard where I work we paint the bottoms of large yachts all the time. The first question the paint foreman has is, "What kind of paint is on the bottom now?" He wants to make sure that the new bottom paint will be compatible to the old bottom paint. For some of the larger boats if the current paint is not known, a sample of the old bottom paint is sent to Interlux or other paint manufacturer for analysis.
A little research on the manufacturers website might give you the right information.
All the paint companies have charts but not knowing what you have can be a problem. Most will work fine, but it's possible to have one that just isn't compatible.
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Old 10-16-2017, 05:09 AM   #27
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"Does being in fresh water for two months have any negative effects on bottom paint when entering salt water again? Does it need to be sanded or "reactivated" somehow?"

When you move the boat , the water does the scrubbing , to a cleaner surface.

Nothing extra required.

Ortona hurricane hole , yes there is always reel estate for sale , the prices seem to be about 1/2 of coastal prices. 50 miles to West and 100 to East coasts.

Remember going to Ft Myers its a couple of opening bridges and 2 locks to transit.

For a cruiser a day getting in or out is no big deal , for fish boat guys it doesn't work.
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Old 10-16-2017, 09:46 AM   #28
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Parks and I keep our boats in brackish water (engines and bottom and I find Trinidad works best. We run our boat weekly or a minimum of 2-3 times a month at cruising speed We do t have the diver over to the bottom unless we have to miss some trips.

Parks I hope your planning on a new boat, thatís your baby!
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Old 10-16-2017, 09:28 PM   #29
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Hi Bigfish, Ellis has Possum's bigger sister listed in their brokerage. It has a much nice interior than Possum. Very expensive. Maybe I can afford it if I opt for a cheaper nursing home when the time comes.
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Old 10-17-2017, 08:37 AM   #30
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Parks

Losing Possum is an opportunity to have Possum Too, your retired and should spend some of that Sale of HC money on Parks. My crew convinced me you only live once so we offered on a larger GB, it was accepted so tomorrow we go to survey and sea trial. This is the second sea trial for us in two weeks, first one we rejected. My gut tells me this is going to be ours (now to write the check).

My point is if I can do it you can too. Your younger, have more money, look a lot better and drink more beer so it should be an easy decision for you. LOL
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Old 10-17-2017, 10:13 AM   #31
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OK Irv - spill the beans - what are you getting?
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Old 10-17-2017, 10:19 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by yachtbrokerguy View Post
Here at the shipyard where I work we paint the bottoms of large yachts all the time. The first question the paint foreman has is, "What kind of paint is on the bottom now?" He wants to make sure that the new bottom paint will be compatible to the old bottom paint. For some of the larger boats if the current paint is not known, a sample of the old bottom paint is sent to Interlux or other paint manufacturer for analysis.
A little research on the manufacturers website might give you the right information.
That's a really big catamaran!! I like the asymmetric hulls......
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Old 10-17-2017, 10:58 AM   #33
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Parks and I keep our boats in brackish water (engines and bottom and I find Trinidad works best. !
With 25 years of DIY bottom jobs in S FL I will agree. Trinidad works better than any ablative or even other epoxy paints.

But, "with all majic you will pay a price". In this case, sanding off epoxy on vast surfaces of FB got old very quickly. AND, its the metal running gear that takes the first hit on hard growth. So, for me, its Trinidad on all below water metal, requiring that full, old film removal at 12 to 18 months. On the hull, its a high end ablative (with anti-slime hopefullly) that will NOT need sanding at the haulings, only a pressure blast and a few touch ups with a coarse scotch brite. Worked for me.
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Old 10-17-2017, 11:32 AM   #34
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Hi David

We don’t have it yet but it will look like the current boat only larger, more room to party in Ft Pierce and even Ted will like this engine room.

Diver Dave we use Trinidad and the metal gets prop speed. Last boat went 16years before sandblasting.
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Old 10-17-2017, 11:36 AM   #35
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Diver Dave. Where are you located? Do you dive the Miami River?
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Old 10-17-2017, 11:43 AM   #36
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Diver Dave. Where are you located? Do you dive the Miami River?
I don't dive professionally. And, I've never dove the Miami River for pleasure! Not that I fear it, just never have. I have jumped into lots of interesting places over the years.

I'm having a time out now in Fairport, NY.
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Old 10-17-2017, 11:51 AM   #37
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Sorry, I thought you might be a professional and I cou,d send some business your direction. No one would dive the river for pleasure, we see chickens, goats, ect floating by after being Santeria offerings. LOL
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Old 10-17-2017, 12:10 PM   #38
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Parks

Losing Possum is an opportunity to have Possum Too, your retired and should spend some of that Sale of HC money on Parks. My crew convinced me you only live once so we offered on a larger GB, it was accepted so tomorrow we go to survey and sea trial. This is the second sea trial for us in two weeks, first one we rejected. My gut tells me this is going to be ours (now to write the check).

My point is if I can do it you can too. Your younger, have more money, look a lot better and drink more beer so it should be an easy decision for you. LOL
GBs are beautiful boats. The only down side it the outside teak.
I learned my 'teak lesson' with my Nordhavn 46. It had 6-8 teak hull/rail caps.

Enjoy your boat <SMILE>
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Old 10-17-2017, 12:57 PM   #39
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With 25 years of DIY bottom jobs in S FL I will agree. Trinidad works better than any ablative or even other epoxy paints.

But, "with all majic you will pay a price". In this case, sanding off epoxy on vast surfaces of FB got old very quickly. AND, its the metal running gear that takes the first hit on hard growth. So, for me, its Trinidad on all below water metal, requiring that full, old film removal at 12 to 18 months. On the hull, its a high end ablative (with anti-slime hopefullly) that will NOT need sanding at the haulings, only a pressure blast and a few touch ups with a coarse scotch brite. Worked for me.
You guys talking about Trinidad SR? hard or ablative...?
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Old 10-17-2017, 02:04 PM   #40
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Old Dan

I agree, I like teak on everyone’s boat but mine. The new boat has a teak rear deck and steps up to the bridge and the will be left a beautiful natural shade of gray. I’ve found the cap rails finished in Awl Brite are beautiful for a year in the hot Miami sun with just a touch up of a coat or two once every year - year and a half.
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