Rust treatment/Paint?

[PMF1984]

What’s the product you can paint over rust that somehow seals/stops the oxidation process?

 

[Lou_tribal]

What’s the product you can paint over rust that somehow seals/stops the oxidation process?

POR15 is doing a good job

L

 

[PMF1984]

I should mention this is for a non-marine grade /industrial grade job.

 

[Larry M]

POR15 is doing a good job

L

The stuff is great! A little pricey but worth it imho.

Another option is Ospho which is a rust inhibiting agent.

Ospho

 

[menzies]

Rust-Oleum also have a decent product.

 

[Nomad Willy]

Tar if it’s consistency is acceptable re the application.

Cosmoline (sp?) is a rust preventive that’s basically grease that dries up much more than most greases. Was/is mostly used to keep exposed steel parts from rusting.

 

[Ventana]

Having owned an older steel boat we tried a lot of products. Corroseal seemed to be the easiest to use with the best results.

 

[Blissboat]

The stuff is great! A little pricey but worth it imho.

Another option is Ospho which is a rust inhibiting agent.

Ospho

Ospho worked well on every steel boat that I have ever been married to.

 

[Comodave]

I use POR 15 and Extend if it is a small job, it is a spray on.

 

[Lepke]

If you want to remove the rust down to good base metal, I use Archoil AR5100. Available on line. Is a concentrate, 1 part to 15 parts water. Item can soak in it or for large objects I saturate some cotton wadding and wrap or lay over the object. Work on all metals, removes corrosion down to base metal. It doesn't hurt the base.

 

[boathealer]

Having owned an older steel boat we tried a lot of products. Corroseal seemed to be the easiest to use with the best results.

+1 on Corroseal. Great stuff.

 

[syjos]

Save your money and buy any rust converter or rust reformer. They are all similar in that they convert rust into a chemical barrier, coating and primer which turns the oxides into a rust preventing, paintable surface.

I've used POR 15 and it's a good product but I did not notice any advantage to using the high priced product.

Corroseal, Rustoleum, VHT, Jasco etc all have rust converters for brush or rattle can application.

I use the Jasco brush on. It is thicker than the other brush on products so doesn't run on vertical surface as easy.

 

[Bacchus]

Another vote for Por15.
It is not UV resistant and needs a top coat but the Por15 seems very tough and will withstand abuse better than the other "reformers" IMO.
Por15 comes close to powder coating in an easily applied DIY coating from what I have seen.

 

[Lou_tribal]

Another vote for Por15.
It is not UV resistant and needs a top coat but the Por15 seems very tough and will withstand abuse better than the other "reformers" IMO.
Por15 comes close to powder coating in an easily applied DIY coating from what I have seen.

Just an advice, be sure not to have any paint on the lid "lips" or the can "lips" before putting the lid back or you will have to destroy the can to open it later on.
Based on my experience I now buy set of small can (equivalent to a pint) instead of a pint so I can open just the cans I need without waste.

L

 

[Bacchus]

L
Appreciate the tip. I've seen you post it before.
I haven't attempted to reopen my can since first use but will be sure to have a clean new can available if needed.

 

[syjos]

Ospho rust converter that Larry M mentioned is excellent too.

Eastwood carry a variety of rust treatments including rust converters too.

 

[stubones99]

If you have a good seal in the paint can, store the can upside down, so the air pocket is at the bottom, leaving fresh paint near the lid when you're ready to use it again.
Be aware that some paints will cure with half filled can, since there is enough air in the can to finish curing the remainder, despite its orientation.

 

[PMF1984]

Yeah so tbh, this is for a backhoe. There was about an inch of hard dried sand oil mix on a lot of under the floorboards. I did a little with a putty knife until I wised up. Rented a hot water power washer, bing, bang, boom. Now have some bare metal. The floor pieces are in an electrolysis tank, the frame is getting whatever I decide on for rust treatment. The clean stuff will get rattle can rustoleum primer

 

[Larry M]

Just an advice, be sure not to have any paint on the lid "lips" or the can "lips" before putting the lid back or you will have to destroy the can to open it later on...L

I learned the hard way the first time. The lid became part of the can which I couldn’t get off. I now use a glass jar with a screw on lid after I’ve opened up a new can. When Im done with the Por15, I wipe the rim of the jar and then use a piece of plastic wrap over the top and then screw on the lid. So far I’ve always been able to get the lid off later.

 

[Lou_tribal]

I learned the hard way the first time. The lid became part of the can which I couldn’t get off. I now use a glass jar with a screw on lid after I’ve opened up a new can. When Im done with the Por15, I wipe the rim of the jar and then use a piece of plastic wrap over the top and then screw on the lid. So far I’ve always been able to get the lid off later.

Looks like we got the same experience

L

 

[syjos]

Rust converters sold in plastic containers are really the way to go. Just wipe the openings thread before screwing on the cap.

Jasco, Corroseal and Ospho come in plastic containers with plastic twist off cap.

POR 15 comes in a can.

Paint and other hardening material really need to be sold with a different type of container than a metal can and lid. I see house paint sold in plastic with a screw on lid that should be adopted to all paint. It's ridiculous in modern times to have to drain or clean a cans lid groove prior to putting on the lid.

 

[PMF1984]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I’m going with Corroseal. Btw, the electrolysis tank is working great. Wonder if I should put my old CQR in there.