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Old 03-14-2017, 10:49 AM   #21
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Put a putty knife between the laminate and the substrate and slowly pry it off. Gluing on an additional piece is OK in some cases, but not if the edge is exposed.


Contact cement is the appropriate adhesive.
Use a heat gun to heat the surface of the laminate which will help the contact cement release.

If well stuck, better to leave it and contact cement a new piece as Fred suggested. I do like the idea of rubber non skid. It may also reduce (if that is an issue) glare.

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Old 03-14-2017, 10:52 AM   #22
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I'm trying to find some kind of sheet rubber that I can cut to size less than 10 inches. Preferably tan or beige in color. If not, gray. I did a quick Google search the other day, but couldn't find anything.
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Old 03-15-2017, 06:25 AM   #23
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"If not, gray. I did a quick Google search the other day, but couldn't find anything."

Try "battleship" linoleum
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Old 03-15-2017, 06:46 AM   #24
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Morning, I have the same boat. Use care with any Formica removal methods. The material goes under all of the surrounding wood work. Out of curiosity, what does the ceiling of the shower compartment look like? The PO of my boat mounted the radar bracket in the same area and drilled through the shower compartment ceiling with the screw holes, I had to plug them from the shower side to prevent moisture damage.
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Old 03-15-2017, 08:05 AM   #25
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I'm trying to find some kind of sheet rubber that I can cut to size less than 10 inches. Preferably tan or beige in color. If not, gray. I did a quick Google search the other day, but couldn't find anything.
Check kitchen stores or RV stores for non-skid rubber material used to keep dishes from sliding around. A large mouse pad might work as well.
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Old 03-15-2017, 08:16 AM   #26
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Check out toolbox drawer liners.
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Old 03-15-2017, 08:29 AM   #27
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It is customary to welcome new members to TF. If you have already been welcomed, please ignore this post.............On the other hand. Welcome aboard.
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Old 03-15-2017, 08:41 AM   #28
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Greetings,
Mr. AG. Aw rats! Missed that one. Mr./Ms. HA must have snuck in the through a scupper somewhere...Welcome aboard Mr./Ms/ HA!
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Old 03-15-2017, 09:30 AM   #29
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Your pic does not show the extent of the problem or the surrounding conditions. That is to say, how much other stuff would you have to remove to recover the whole area? Or, could you apply a neat patch over the offending area?

Formica is generically called 'plastic laminate'; that is, it's made of layers of stuff with a top surface of colored material all impregnated with phenolic resin (unless it's the premium version that's uniformly colored throughout). You can sand the surface but not all that deep; you may have seen plastic laminate check-out counters in stores that are worn through the surface and into the underlying lamina. Sanding the surface will also change the sheen or surface pattern; it will also give a surface which will accept adhesive.

Thus you could apply a neat patch or recover the whole surface with matching plastic laminate. It seems likely to me that Mainship would have purchased their laminate already bonded to a plywood underlayment; if so, the bond will be pretty darned good and the laminate would not be removable. If Mainship laminated their own plywood components, they'd have their choice of adhesives and the removal might be easier. (Morgan used contact cement in our 1972 sailboat.)

Simply filling the holes you pictured might be the easiest w/o the bother of finding matching laminate. I think it would be appropriate, and easy, to countersink each hole enough to remove the ragged edge and any shattered material. Then apply the filler as neatly as you can. Subsequent sanding would unduly affect the surrounding laminate, even if it was the 'matte' finish.
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Old 03-15-2017, 09:37 AM   #30
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Morning, I have the same boat. Use care with any Formica removal methods. The material goes under all of the surrounding wood work..............
If the trim was applied after the laminate, it would have to be removed first for a proper repair. If it's like my boat, the trim is screwed on and the holes are filled with matching wooden plugs. This gets far more complicated and makes the non-skid mat an even more attractive solution.
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Old 03-15-2017, 10:07 AM   #31
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Let me add to my post #25 above: You might find a heavy duty shelf liner that would work. Look at kitchen stores or home centers.
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Old 03-15-2017, 06:17 PM   #32
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Hi all, I'm going to have to catch up with my responses. I'll get back to all of you shortly. With regards to the welcomes,,, thank you. I posted in the "welcome mat". Happy to get this kind of response to one of my questions. Great forum!
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Old 03-15-2017, 06:45 PM   #33
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I used this on a previous boat to patch holes in the panel and other areas with a "swiss cheese" appearance. Septone - Marine - Body Filler - Gelcoat Repair Filler 400g.
Has to be something similar in USA. I found it helps a lot if you can put masking tape at the back of the hole to be filled. The putty can be final sanded smooth with wet n dry fine sandpaper and polished to be as undetectable as possible.
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Old 04-25-2017, 09:48 PM   #34
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Thought I'd update. For now I decided to take the easy way out since it turns out I have more pressing maintenance that demands my attention. I went to bed bath and beyond and bought an organizing tray with rubber feet and laid it on the counter over the holes. That gives me a place to put keys or things like a 12 V cell phone charger. I'll get back to this when it moves up on my list. Thanks for all of your advice.
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