Rejex vs Permanon

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I use a spray bottle filled with Permanon and the appropriate amount to distilled water to apply the solution to the cleaned and dried topside gelcoat. Then I rinse it with hose water - could not be simpler. I do this no more often that once a year, sometimes couple of years go by before I get around to it. Hull is painted with Awlcraft and so does not get Premanon treatment but rather the Awlwash and Awlcare regimen.
 
I use a spray bottle filled with Permanon and the appropriate amount to distilled water to apply the solution to the cleaned and dried topside gelcoat. Then I rinse it with hose water - could not be simpler. I do this no more often that once a year, sometimes couple of years go by before I get around to it. Hull is painted with Awlcraft and so does not get Premanon treatment but rather the Awlwash and Awlcare regimen.

Rich, How big an area do you apply to prior to wiping off? Also what percent is your mixture? 5% or 10%?
 
Rich, How big an area do you apply to prior to wiping off? Also what percent is your mixture? 5% or 10%?

I use the 10%. It's only a 30-foot boat, and since it is under cover, there is not so much rapid evap going on which allows me to cover the whole topside of the boat including fore deck and hardtop before hitting with the rinsing hose. Fifteen minutes tops. I spend lots more time with soapy water ensuring the surfaces are clean the day before I come back with the Permanon spray bottle. Surfaces clean easily because of the previous Permanon application, but it just takes a while with brush, bucket and hose to get ready for the next.
 
I use the 10%. It's only a 30-foot boat, and since it is under cover, there is not so much rapid evap going on which allows me to cover the whole topside of the boat including fore deck and hardtop before hitting with the rinsing hose. Fifteen minutes tops. I spend lots more time with soapy water ensuring the surfaces are clean the day before I come back with the Permanon spray bottle. Surfaces clean easily because of the previous Permanon application, but it just takes a while with brush, bucket and hose to get ready for the next.

So, it sounds like you don’t work it in until it is dry? I thought the process was to spray it on, and then rub it in which would “crush” the molecules into the gel coat, and then you are done. (This may have been the directions for another product)
 
So, it sounds like you don’t work it in until it is dry? I thought the process was to spray it on, and then rub it in which would “crush” the molecules into the gel coat, and then you are done. (This may have been the directions for another product)

Read the information on the Permanon web site. As I did, it told me that the instant it hits the surface it bonds. Thus rubbing on it will give no additional benefit. My kinda stuff. :)
 
Read the information on the Permanon web site. As I did, it told me that the instant it hits the surface it bonds. Thus rubbing on it will give no additional benefit. My kinda stuff. :)

Thank you. I haven’t read the site in a little while, but will do so again. Appreciate the tips!

I think my biggest issue may end up actually finding temporary covered storage to apply it after the boat is received. :)
 
Thank you. I haven’t read the site in a little while, but will do so again. Appreciate the tips!

I think my biggest issue may end up actually finding temporary covered storage to apply it after the boat is received. :)

A cloudy day will work.:rofl:
 
if i were starting with a new hull i'd be looking at this:https://www.xpel.com/ceramic-coating-fusion-plus

a detailer friend i have swears by it. i have no affiliation.


Thank you! I have looked at their website, but they have nothing regarding marine or gel coat. I briefly looked at their installers and all I saw were automotive related folks. Permanon sells a different mixture for gelcoats than for auto. Not sure on Rejex. But nothing on Xpel that I could find.
 
Great thread,
Keep it going and like the comparisons. Right now I'm on the fence but leaning toward Rejex.
I use Rejex on the windows and works great.
 
I use the 10%. It's only a 30-foot boat, and since it is under cover, there is not so much rapid evap going on which allows me to cover the whole topside of the boat including fore deck and hardtop before hitting with the rinsing hose. Fifteen minutes tops. I spend lots more time with soapy water ensuring the surfaces are clean the day before I come back with the Permanon spray bottle. Surfaces clean easily because of the previous Permanon application, but it just takes a while with brush, bucket and hose to get ready for the next.

Rich, are you able to spray your entire hardtop? Is it possible to spray it onto a long deck brush and then apply? I always used a traditional wax in then past. This year I tried Woody Wax because it says it's good to use on non-skid and won't end up being slippery. I assume you do your non-skid too. So far I'm not too impressed with Woody Wax. It was easy to use but doesn't seem to last long. But it also leaves a visible film on stainless so after it's dry I need to wipe down the stainless with a cloth. That's not a huge deal but not what I expected.
 
Here is some information I received from Permanon.

“ Prep before a Permanon application simply involves making sure it's thoroughly clean. Rinse, wash with a detergent that rinses clean and has no additives (many detailers like to use Dawn Original dish detergent), rinse thoroughly, then apply Permanon immediately, and dry with a microfiber or other lint-free cloth. If you're doing this under the sun, then to avoid water spotting, dry the surface before applying Permanon, then apply Permanon in smaller sections and wipe dry immediately.

I've attached an area coverage charge to help you determine how much Permanon you'll need based on the square footage you need to seal. I recommend you order extra as most people over-apply (which is unnecessary and only wastes the product, but it tends to happen anyway), and it's good to have more on hand for maintenance applications down the road.

Permanon cannot adhere to itself, therefore it cannot be layered. One thorough application is all that's required until it starts to wear away and needs a maintenance application to fill any gaps in the protection.

First time applications on any fiberglass or Gel Coat surface should be applied at a 10% mix to make sure you're filling the pores of the microstructure. Fiberglass and Gel Coat surfaces are much more porous than the clear coats applied to cars. Then maintenance applications can be applied at a 5% mix.

Application instructions are included with every order. You can also find a link to a PDF copy of the instructions at the bottom of our FAQ's page, which is also where you'll find answers to these and many other questions. Here's a direct link: https://www.permanonfinishes.com/faqs
 
Interesting that it says to dry with a cloth vs. Rich's spray on, rinse off method.
 
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Interesting that it says to apply with a cloth vs. Rich's spray on method.

I think the application is spraying it. Many of these distributors of ceramic recommend using a microfiber to crush the ceramic into the surface. I have spoken to a couple of detailers who say they use that process.

I would imagine that doing so the first time would be a good idea. Doesn’t add too much to the application process.
 
I think the application is spraying it. Many of these distributors of ceramic recommend using a microfiber to crush the ceramic into the surface. I have spoken to a couple of detailers who say they use that process.

I would imagine that doing so the first time would be a good idea. Doesn’t add too much to the application process.

I mis-spoke and since edited my post.
 
What about Awlgrip painted surfaces? Either of these products safe for that?
 
What about Awlgrip painted surfaces? Either of these products safe for that?

if you're talking about original awlgrip (polyester urethane) i would get some advice from them directly. that stuff is tough as nails, but when the surface is damaged, you pretty much can't bring it back.
that said, when i had an awlgrip paint job show it's age, i used rejex on it and it worked well, but required application regularly.
if it's in good condition, as mentioned, the awlgrip products are the way to go.
 
Here is some information I received from Permanon.

“ Prep before a Permanon application simply involves making sure it's thoroughly clean. Rinse, wash with a detergent that rinses clean and has no additives (many detailers like to use Dawn Original dish detergent), rinse thoroughly, then apply Permanon immediately, and dry with a microfiber or other lint-free cloth. If you're doing this under the sun, then to avoid water spotting, dry the surface before applying Permanon, then apply Permanon in smaller sections and wipe dry immediately.

I've attached an area coverage charge to help you determine how much Permanon you'll need based on the square footage you need to seal. I recommend you order extra as most people over-apply (which is unnecessary and only wastes the product, but it tends to happen anyway), and it's good to have more on hand for maintenance applications down the road.

Permanon cannot adhere to itself, therefore it cannot be layered. One thorough application is all that's required until it starts to wear away and needs a maintenance application to fill any gaps in the protection.

First time applications on any fiberglass or Gel Coat surface should be applied at a 10% mix to make sure you're filling the pores of the microstructure. Fiberglass and Gel Coat surfaces are much more porous than the clear coats applied to cars. Then maintenance applications can be applied at a 5% mix.

Application instructions are included with every order. You can also find a link to a PDF copy of the instructions at the bottom of our FAQ's page, which is also where you'll find answers to these and many other questions. Here's a direct link: https://www.permanonfinishes.com/faqs

Interesting that Permanon won’t stick to itself and only one coat is recommended. Here is the faq on layering coats from Rejex. Not saying which is better, but they seem to be significantly different chemically.

Is there any benefit to applying a second coat of RejeX?

You have to see it to believe it. You bet there is added benefit to applying a second coat. It is important however to ensure RejeX cures fully before apply subsequent coats. A second coat will deepen the luster and provide more protection. There is however a point of diminishing returns - after about 2-3 coats you’ve gotten all the gloss and protection RejeX can deliver.
 
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Interesting that Permanon won’t stick to itself and only one coat is recommended. Here is the faq on layering coats from Rejex. Not saying which is better, but they seem to be significantly different chemically.

Is there any benefit to applying a second coat of RejeX?

You have to see it to believe it. You bet there is added benefit to applying a second coat. It is important however to ensure RejeX cures fully before apply subsequent coats. A second coat will deepen the luster and provide more protection. There is however a point of diminishing returns - after about 2-3 coats you’ve gotten all the gloss and protection RejeX can deliver.

Glad you found that. I may send a question back Permanon’s way. What they said doesn’t make a lot of sense. They have one statement that you can apply up to 100% with no dilution on a boat. They also say most people apply too much.
 
Do either one of these products do any magic for oxidized gel-coat?
 
Do either one of these products do any magic for oxidized gel-coat?

The short answer is no. Ceramic coating will “memorialize” defects, at least until it is worn off over time. The best results are obtained after getting the oxidation completely removed.
 
Do either one of these products do any magic for oxidized gel-coat?

Nope, and I had my oxidized gelcoat buffed and did the Permanon treatment afterwards.
 

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