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Old 09-04-2019, 12:11 PM   #1
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Recommended adhesive for gluing glass to aluminum frames?

I have to replace one cracked (laminated) pane. Prefer not to buy a large cartridge if possible. Small squeeze tube would be most economical (I think). Anybody done this?
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Old 09-04-2019, 12:13 PM   #2
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Silicone, clear works well...
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Old 09-04-2019, 12:35 PM   #3
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For glass adhesive, I’d use a polyurethane designed for glass. We replaced two windows on Hobo that don’t have interior frames and they haven’t leaked after 4 years. Silicone is a good gasket material but I’m not sure I’d use it as an adhesive.

As far as a small tube? 3M glass adhesive is about $15 for a 10.5 oz tube.
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Old 09-05-2019, 08:44 AM   #4
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Dowsil 995

Construction adhesive sealant. Works great with the difference in expansion and contraction rates between the two materials.
I use it when I want to seal things once. The first time.
It holds glass in high rise buildings.
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Old 09-05-2019, 09:19 AM   #5
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Thanks, everyone.

By way of background I had caused the crack when I installed a screw for the window screen frame into the perimeter frame and the very tip of the screw contacted the glass. I heard a pop and then saw the crack migrating up the (outer) laminate of the glass

The cracked window is actually a sliding pane that moves behind a fixed pane when it's open. There's about an inch of overlap when it's closed, so I was forced to remove the fixed pane to get at the cracked slider. Last thing I wanted to do was pull the entire frame from the opening in the hull. I cut out the fixed pane yesterday using a long, thin, flexible razor type blade that's part of a Harbor Freight hobby carving kit. No way to get behind the overlap with anything conventional. The original bonding material looks like an elastomer.

I appreciate the advice.
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Old 09-24-2019, 02:47 AM   #6
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An epoxy or super glue will work well for most glass to metal joints. A super glue is easy to use and great for small household objects. However, an epoxy will give you a stronger joint and provides more time to position your pieces precisely. If it doesn't matter if the glue shows, we recommend J-B Weld
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Old 09-24-2019, 06:42 AM   #7
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My first though is to take a lesson from the auto glass folks...
If I'm not mistaken the standard for windshield installation is butyl. I'd be calling my local Safelight guy and see if he would advise, maybe sell you some and just maybe do the install for a day on the water with his family?
What's the worst answer you could get? Then go to plan B...
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Old 09-24-2019, 10:05 AM   #8
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Thanks, everyone for the tips.

Another follow up. I found a glass shop that cut the pane to my measurements. On our boat it's a very dark bronze tint called privacy glass as used in commercial vehicles. It turned out that while my length/width measurements were accurate, the original pane was very slightly trapezoid in shape. I should have taken the original pane out to use as a pattern, but didn't want to leave the open space protected only by plastic as there were high winds and rain in the area at the time. Anyway, the mistake cost me a second pane of glass...$68 times two. Lesson learned...don't bet on boat window frames being "square" even if they appear as such.

In the interim the boat was hauled and placed in the winter storage building. The second piece of sliding glass fits well, although I noticed the felt track liner is badly degraded. So the search is on for that material. Gluing the second pane will happen in the Spring as I ran out of time this year.

Again, thanks for the advice. I think I found some urethane in a small squeeze tube. Here are some photos of the area. The sliding pane is behind the screen. It slides behind the fixed glass that is just forward of the screen. That fixed pane obviously had to come off to get at the sliding glass...and it needs to be glued back on once the slider is installed.

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