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Old 04-24-2017, 12:41 PM   #21
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I would add my support to the idea of first checking the hatch seals. Then if you do need to rebed, I would suggest the butyl tape. Just avoid silicone at all costs.
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Old 04-24-2017, 01:06 PM   #22
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Dolphinite is my favorite as it is easy to clean off when the time comes.

The tape sealants work best with hatch for window flanges designed for its use .

5200 never, and any goop that hardens in the tube after its open is not for my use.
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Old 04-24-2017, 08:52 PM   #23
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This year I plan to try using Phenoseal in lieu of 5200. 5200 can be a BPITA because once you open a caulking tube, plan to use it all....soon! The small tubes with a cap seem to survive without problems though.
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Old 04-24-2017, 09:38 PM   #24
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My Bomar hatches were also leaking. However, my leaks were between the lens and metal frame. After removing the old sealant from the gap between the lens and metal frame the lens came out with very little pressure. Cleaned everything and re-bed with Dow Corning 795. Leaks are gone.

Well almost. Now getting a new very slight leak between the hatch and deck.

In the past I've used a bedding compound like 4200 but didn't completely tighten the item to the deck. I would just tighten the screw or through bolt enough to secure the item. Wait a few days until the bedding compound was completely cured and then completely tighten the item to the deck. Now instead of the bedding compound oozing out it compresses to make a tighter seal, more like a gasket.

However, with what I have read here I may use butyl tape for this project.
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Old 04-24-2017, 10:07 PM   #25
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Re-Bedding Deck Hardware With Bed-It Tape Photo Gallery by Compass Marine How To at pbase.com
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Old 04-25-2017, 05:30 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foggysail View Post
This year I plan to try using Phenoseal in lieu of 5200. 5200 can be a BPITA because once you open a caulking tube, plan to use it all....soon! The small tubes with a cap seem to survive without problems though.


I don't use 5200 for anything anymore. Not even for underwater projects. And I would never say to use it on something like a hatch. That stuff just makes any future removal a huge pain. Sik-a-Flex is superior in so many ways.
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Old 04-25-2017, 07:32 AM   #27
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I don't use 5200 for anything anymore. Not even for underwater projects. And I would never say to use it on something like a hatch. That stuff just makes any future removal a huge pain. Sik-a-Flex is superior in so many ways.
Tom (and all), which Sikaflex do you use for bedding fittings . . . and which for seams that are exposed to UV? How does the latter hold up to sun exposure? Thnx.
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Old 04-25-2017, 12:28 PM   #28
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Tom (and all), which Sikaflex do you use for bedding fittings . . . and which for seams that are exposed to UV? How does the latter hold up to sun exposure? Thnx.
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Old 04-25-2017, 08:16 PM   #29
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I very much appreciate all the thorough input. I am a bit nervous about wood rot now (Thanks RCook&#128521 but will get a good look at all the parts to come off before I do anything. First, as suggested by Tom.B, I'll check other possible leaks sources.
Hopefully I won't have to remove the head liner in the cabin below the hatch to complete the job correctly.
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Old 04-26-2017, 05:45 AM   #30
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" I am a bit nervous about wood rot now"

Wet wood does not rot, Dry wood does not rot.

Wood rots when going from wet to dry or dry to wet.
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Old 04-28-2017, 06:01 AM   #31
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Butyl Tape fixed mine!
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Old 05-11-2019, 01:46 AM   #32
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Well initially tried rebedding with Black 4200 . . . Didn’t work, today attacked it again using “bed-it butyl tape” then DOW 995 black silicone. The glass guy at Saunders Marine said that is what he used. A bit hard to find . . . However after research and talking to supplier convinced it will work.
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