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Old 01-24-2021, 04:25 PM   #1
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Rails 'round the engine

I want to add some SS railings around the engine. Without them I find myself steadying myself by grabbing or touching things I shouldn't - especially when underway.

I expect pretty much any fabricator can do this, right? Any recommendations in the Baltimore/Annapolis area?

..or any better ideas?
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Old 01-24-2021, 04:34 PM   #2
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Mainly depends where you plan to fasten them down.
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Old 01-24-2021, 04:47 PM   #3
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Diameter of pipe, 3/4?
Build it out of galvanized pipe first to see if you like the idea and you can make any modifications.
Consider mounting a vise on a plate that traverses port/stbd
Will you need 4 or 6 legs. Number and placement of the legs are important. You do not want to interfere with access to the parts of the engine.
Do you want it permanent or removable. Secure it to the stringers if possible.
After it is all finished, paint it gray/grey. You might like the color and reduced cost. If you still want stainless, take it to a shop and say, "make one just like this one out of marine grade stainless."
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Old 01-24-2021, 05:03 PM   #4
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I had a local shop weld a custom one that I provided drawings for. Had "feet" mounted to stringers with thru bolt holes, so rails easily removed for service. Made from 316, non polished, so no need for high dollar marine fabricator. Not a show piece, but affordable, useful, and fine for my old boat. I'll see if I still have his info. He also did ER ladders and some other goodies.
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Old 01-24-2021, 05:11 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danderer View Post
I want to add some SS railings around the engine. Without them I find myself steadying myself by grabbing or touching things I shouldn't - especially when underway.

I expect pretty much any fabricator can do this, right? Any recommendations in the Baltimore/Annapolis area?

..or any better ideas?
Stick welders are dirt cheap
Tig welders are not much more

I say this because for me, the most difficult part in getting work done is for someone to take on a small job without bending you over
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Old 01-24-2021, 06:49 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Simi 60 View Post
Stick welders are dirt cheap
Tig welders are not much more

I say this because for me, the most difficult part in getting work done is for someone to take on a small job without bending you over
and threaded galvanized pipe is even less expensive.
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Old 01-24-2021, 07:00 PM   #7
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Could probably use stainless bimini and stanchion fittings to assemble something that can come apart for access.
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Old 01-24-2021, 07:35 PM   #8
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and threaded pipe is even less expensive.
Yep
Even found S/S threaded elbows online but then you'd need actual s/s pipe which would up the price

For other jobs I have been looking at fiberglass tube and elbows as an alternative
Considering this route for engine to water lift muffler as our S/S variant has a pinhole that I have been chasing for a while.
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Old 01-24-2021, 09:18 PM   #9
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Before I put a baracade around an engine in a K.K. I would do two things. The first being adding a gyro stabilizer or a "flopper stopper" depending on your budget.

Next I would consider adding nice grab handles to the ceiling every couple feet or at convenient locations. All I can see coming from caging in your engine is frustration at no longer having good access.

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Old 01-24-2021, 10:55 PM   #10
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^^^^^^ $20+ k vs $1500

A rail is simply that, a rail, not a cage.
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Old 01-24-2021, 11:20 PM   #11
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Jeff Carter. Carter fabrications Millersville md.

(410) 987-9397

build it out of pvc pipe first.
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Old 01-25-2021, 05:57 AM   #12
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Jeff Carter. Carter fabrications Millersville md.

(410) 987-9397

build it out of pvc pipe first.
Jhall, perfect suggestion!!!
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Old 01-25-2021, 07:46 AM   #13
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I've got good access to stringers and the engine bed for mounting.

I really like the PVC-prototype idea.
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Old 01-25-2021, 10:39 AM   #14
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Like THIS!
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Old 01-25-2021, 10:39 AM   #15
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Nothing wrong with galvanized pipe found everywhere. Add some paint if you want it to look pretty. Paint them engine color and everyone will think they are original. A cross brace would make them stronger if space allows.
You don't want to impede access.
As psneeld said how you fasten it down is important.
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Old 01-25-2021, 10:42 AM   #16
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slow:
What is that beast we are looking at?
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Old 01-25-2021, 10:46 AM   #17
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slow:
What is that beast we are looking at?

Gardner 8LXB coupled to a Hundestat 36" variable pitch 3 bladed propeller
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Old 01-25-2021, 11:02 AM   #18
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Here is what I am envisioning:
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Old 01-25-2021, 11:05 AM   #19
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We use this stuff
https://www.mcmaster.com/structural-...-and-fittings/
for all sorts of things on the boat -- rails around engine, dinghy flag pole, workbench in engine room, shower curtain rods strong enough to be grabbed, storage racks, swim platform ladder. It's not quite as elegant as a welded stainless one piece rail, but in the engine room, so what? You can get it in aluminum or galvanized. If you want it easy to take apart, you can substitute wing screws for the allen heads it comes with.


Incidentally, For those who who don't know McMaster Carr (the site linked above), you should. Their paper catalog runs 4,000 pages of fine print, but I never use it because the web site is very good. They stock 40,000 different fastenings (among perhaps 400,000 other things) and sell them in convenient packages that come out around $5-15. so you don't have to buy 100 when you need five. They ship same day up for orders placed up to about 6:30PM. Over the years, I've ordered over 4,000 line items and they've made only two mistakes. They are often not the low price vendor (although their shipping charges are very low), but they are so very convenient they are by far my most important vendor.


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Old 01-25-2021, 11:25 AM   #20
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Sure would be nice if they were easily removable for engine maintenance. Perhaps top rail could slide into bottom rail.
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