Pulled Snap - Easy Fix

[HopCar]

Most of us have had a snap pull out of fiberglass leaving the hole too big to just screw it back in. Forget epoxy, this is far easier.

You need a replacement snap without a screw, a #6 rubber expansion nut that is long enough to go through the fiberglass and a #6 flat head machine screw long enough to go through the expansion nut.

Drill the hole out to the OD of the expansion nut. In this case it was 5/16”. Shove the expansion nut through the fiberglass. Put the snap on the machine screw and screw the machine screw into the expansion nut. You’re done.

This is probably stronger than the original installation and I’m pretty sure it’s waterproof.

 

[Nightsky]

Thanks Parks, great tip.
Just realized I have to update my profile. Photo is of our new to us Wellington 57.

 

[GFC]

Good tip, thanks Parks.

 

[Sailor of Fortune]

clever tip Parks

 

[River Cruiser]

I have a bunch of those in the garage. I used them for mounting west coast style mirrors on truck doors. They worked great and sealed the hole, the insert is brass and for 5/16 course thread. I never saw any small diameter sizes.

 

[HopCar]

I have a bunch of those in the garage. I used them for mounting west coast style mirrors on truck doors. They worked great and sealed the hole, the insert is brass and for 5/16 course thread. I never saw any small diameter sizes.

I think the biggest I’ve seen are 3/8” and the smallest #6. I sold them in my marine store and I got the one in my photos from my neighborhood hardware store.

 

[kenk]

I have had good luck using those plastic sheet rock anchors.

 

[syjos]

I take a short piece of tie wrap, fold it half, insert into existing snap hole with two little ends of the tie wrap sticking out, screw the snap back in carefully and the two sides sticking out will be hidden by the hollow of the back of the snap.

Be careful starting the screw so the tie wrap does'nt get pushed into the hole.

I usually apply a little bit of caulking under snaps to keep water out and that also helps hold the snap.

Most screw anchors require drilling a bigger hole which I like to avoid.

 

[Seevee]

Parks,


Great tip, I've never used those expansion nuts, looks like they have a rubber coating?


Do you secure the nut prior to putting the bolt in?


I've used a lot of Rivnuts over the years and have the tools for mounting.... suspect they would work pretty well, too.



Another trick for holes too big is to simply put a toothpick in the hole as you screw in the screw. It wouldn't be the thing if you needed to remove it occasionally, but will work pretty well.



But I like your ideal better.

 

[HopCar]

Seevee, the expansion nut, also called a Wellnut, is made of a rubber like material and has a brass nut molded into it. You just shove it through the hole and run the screw in. As you tighten the screw, the molded in nut pulls the rubber in and causes it to expand. They will also work pretty good in material that they can’t go all the way through.

 

[HopCar]

Here are some more pictures.

 

[twistedtree]

Cool. In all my years I have never seen and "expansion nut" like that. Very handy.

 

[Dwk]

IMO its the best way to fit those loose/pulled snap fitting, thanks for sharing

 

[Flybull]

I like it...!!!

Thanks for the share.

 

[HopCar]

Will a Moderator please change the title of this thread from East Fix to Easy Fix?

 

[Bigsfish]

Parks you’ve always been a great source of knowledge over many many years and still continue. If you get tired of retirement your store could use you.

 

[IWAB]

Nice to know the Wellnut” is available. but to me, a bigger problem is how to deal with the snap or Lift the Dot stud that breaks off leaving screw without a head buried in wood or fiberglass. Anyone have any tricks to deal with a broken screw left in fiberglass or wood?

Can’t really just move to a slightly different place because there is the female snap or Lift The Dot still on the canvas that is looking for its male counterpart when snapping the canvas back on.

 

[IWAB]

Somehow I deleted my comment, so here’s a repeat.

It’s great to know the threaded plug is available. But the more difficult problem is what to do when a canvas snap or Lift The Dot stud breaks off and the screw remains buried in either wood or fiberglass. Anyone have any tricks removing the screw? It’s too small for use of an easy out, and I don’t want to remove material around the embedded screw to try to get a pair of needle nose pliers on it.

Any ideas would be great cause I have a few Lift The Dot studs in my fiberglass hull I would like to remove to be able to replace with new ones.

 

[HopCar]

Parks you’ve always been a great source of knowledge over many many years and still continue. If you get tired of retirement your store could use you.

Thanks Fish. I was in the store last week. Thought they were doing a pretty good job except the inventory was a little low. It’s really hard to sell what isn’t on the shelf. The girls hugged me when they saw me. It was nice to know they miss me.

 

[Comodave]

Will a Moderator please change the title of this thread from East Fix to Easy Fix?

I thought that maybe it only worked on the east coast...

 

[Bigsfish]

Parks your a comedian in retirement too, “the inventory was a little low”. HC was the place to go to get everything, it was on the shelf. That probably effected your bottom line but it was a pleasure for the customers. You never know how much you miss someone until they are gone.

 

[jeffnick]

This is also an option...

https://www.amazon.com/Snap-Screw-Oversize-Stainless-Steel/dp/B015F5QPD0

I've also done this...
https://72land-n-sea.blogspot.com/2014/05/loose-snaps.html?m=1

 

[ben2go]

I have those on my motorcycles. I never thought to use them on a boat.

 

[R lucky]

I've sworn off snaps completely. Every semi-permanent attachment on my boat is with a turnbuckle (or twisted stud, depending on who you talk to). No snaps -- No problems.

Sorry, still trying to figure out how to post a photo from my phone...

 

[ben2go]

My old military Jeep body had a belt rail system that used an aluminum channel to hold the piping. In the five years I owned, I expected it wear through as much as I took the top on and off but it proved to be quite robust. I've considered using something similar on my boats to enclose the rear during the winter.

 

[sbu22]

Great tip, Parks! Appreciate it.

 

[Bacchus]

Will a Moderator please change the title of this thread from East Fix to Easy Fix?

Done

 

[HopCar]

Thanks Don.

 

[Comodave]

My old military Jeep body had a belt rail system that used an aluminum channel to hold the piping. In the five years I owned, I expected it wear through as much as I took the top on and off but it proved to be quite robust. I've considered using something similar on my boats to enclose the rear during the winter.

It is a keder strip. Very common in marine canvas work. We used it for our flybridge and sundeck enclosures.

 

[ben2go]

It is a keder strip. Very common in marine canvas work. We used it for our flybridge and sundeck enclosures.

Thanks. As long as I was in the upholstery buisness, I never knew the name of those. I have seen similar, I'll bet more expensive, type mounting systems on boats I worked on.