PNW boaters...varnish, Cetol or oil?

[VixenII]

There is one bright product that I have not only used on the trawler but also on the our old (65 yrs. ) sailboat. It is called Honey Teak by Signature Paints of Stuart, FL. This system has given me more than four years service without recoating here in the Caribbean with constant exposure to the tropical environment. It is a two part - two step - multiple coat system that is easy to work with. Practical Boat gave it the highest marks. Its expensive compared with simple spar varnish but well worth it. (Unfortunately for me, it has to be shipped via truck -hazmat rules- and I cannot get more down here in PR... Fed, DHL, UPS do not offer anything but air freight here.) It is worth checking out. At least, I like it, for whatever thats worth.

 

[JD]

There is one bright product that I have not only used on the trawler but also on the our old (65 yrs. ) sailboat. It is called Honey Teak by Signature Paints of Stuart, FL. This system has given me more than four years service without recoating here in the Caribbean with constant exposure to the tropical environment. It is a two part - two step - multiple coat system that is easy to work with. Practical Boat gave it the highest marks.

Agree 200%. It does take a bit of a skill set but the more you use the product the better you get. Also as you will learn you will have a redo in the first year at a couple of spots. The trick we found was that if you let the redo spot go to long it gets harder to re do. So jump up and do the redo ASAP. What you will find then is that after doing a couple of re-dos they seem to go away and not return.

The more finish coats that you use the better the product looks. Depending on your project it is possible to do two or three finish coats in one day. We did the 2 x 3" toe rail on our 38 foot sail boat and after the first couple of coats we were able to do three additional coats on the second day. There is no sanding required as long as the surface is still a bit tackie. If allowed to dry hard a green scruffy does the job.

The product withstands the NC sun and except for a re coat of a couple of coats every year or two it with stands anything. Drop something on the rail, make a chip, redo the spot and it will blend in like it never happened.

On three different sail boats, lot of teak, we have tried several different finishes. Varnish, Bristol, Cetol and Honey Teak. Honey Teak gives the same quality finish as many coats of varnish but in the end is way easier to apply and maintain the finish.

I have no connection other than having been a happy satisfied user of the product.

 

[VikingBay]

The best product I've found and use is made by Systems3.
WR-LPU Topcoat - System Three Resins, Inc.
It is more expensive and harder to handle but once done, it's beautiful, lasts a long time and has UV protection.
Here is a table that is is exposed to weather periodically and constantly exposed to weeping glasses, etc, and still looks new today.

 

[Captain K]

Spring of 2011 we varnished the starboard side handrail and caprail of our Marine Trader 44 with Epiphanes (10 coats) and as a control test, did the port side with Cabot gloss spar varnish (10 coats). We paid $37US/Qt. for the Epiphanes, and $14US/Qt. for the Cabot. As of early November, 2012 we can not tell the difference in the protective, or cosmetic properties of the two sides. Both sides still look good as new. The boat was in the Florida Keys last winter, and the Redneck Riviera (northern Gulf of Mexico) the rest of the time.

 

[Delfin]

The best product I've found and use is made by Systems3.
WR-LPU Topcoat - System Three Resins, Inc.
It is more expensive and harder to handle but once done, it's beautiful, lasts a long time and has UV protection.
Here is a table that is is exposed to weather periodically and constantly exposed to weeping glasses, etc, and still looks new today.

Although I haven't used the clear coat, I have the System 3 pigmented product, and so far it seems to be holding up as well as Awlgrip, but is a whole lot easier to apply. Did you thin yours with alcohol and water and what tips can you give on getting the clear coat to flow?

 

[VikingBay]

No it is a slow pour type which for your railings and other uneven surfaces makes it more difficult. If masked correctly, be patience and if done in stages can be done with great results. Some wetsanding between stages may be necessary to blend nicely, but it's definitely a great product.

 

[Nomad Willy]

I used a Systems Three water based clear coating on my teak caprials several years ago and it didn't make it through an Alaskan winter at all. That's a lot to ask of course (and on teak too) but I haven't used it since. It's a very thin coating as I recall.

 

[VikingBay]

I used a Systems Three water based clear coating on my teak caprials several years ago and it didn't make it through an Alaskan winter at all. That's a lot to ask of course (and on teak too) but I haven't used it since. It's a very thin coating as I recall.

Which product, specifically, did you use as I have not seen anything like what you described out of the product I posted.