I have a question for the TF brain trust. The molded non-skid surface on my fly bridge has been painted but the paint is starting to peel and needs to be redone. How do you prep the surface? pressure wash, scotch bright pads. what about which paint to use? TIA
Painting molded Non-skid surfaces
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Nomad Willy
Guru
One can sand the tops of the "bumps" but not the "valleys".
Is it a problem or not?
That's what I've always wondered. But I suspect that if one washes all the oily-like contamants from the valleys and basically clean throughly a coating of good paint applied propperly will be fine. Adhesion should be good on the high spots and those being so close together help hold the coating on. And the low spots are significantly protected by the high spots "bumps" that basically all things go well if good cleaning is done.
But that can be a problem as it's anyone's guess what contaminants are on the surface. Solvent, alcohol, soap or what to use? To make things look pretty people put all kinds of undesirable stuff on painted surfaces. Time cures all of course but the present is the issue. One would need to do the cleaning w something that will not harm the existing paint or otherwise coating ... and remove all the wax, oil, ArmorAll or whatever.
This washing/cleaning is the big question. What to use.
Is it a problem or not?
That's what I've always wondered. But I suspect that if one washes all the oily-like contamants from the valleys and basically clean throughly a coating of good paint applied propperly will be fine. Adhesion should be good on the high spots and those being so close together help hold the coating on. And the low spots are significantly protected by the high spots "bumps" that basically all things go well if good cleaning is done.
But that can be a problem as it's anyone's guess what contaminants are on the surface. Solvent, alcohol, soap or what to use? To make things look pretty people put all kinds of undesirable stuff on painted surfaces. Time cures all of course but the present is the issue. One would need to do the cleaning w something that will not harm the existing paint or otherwise coating ... and remove all the wax, oil, ArmorAll or whatever.
This washing/cleaning is the big question. What to use.
GoneFarrell
Guru
I've seen ZEP brand cleaners recommend by a few paint systems as good for clean and prep.
Keysdisease
Guru
Mold release wax is very tenacious. All the Marine Paint manufacturers recommend a solvent wash several times using clean rags. A solvent wash along with brushing and wiping will help a lot.
Even a 20 year old boat still has mold release wax on some of the surfaces, it's why your boat didn't stick to the mold, it's also why paint may not either.
Even a 20 year old boat still has mold release wax on some of the surfaces, it's why your boat didn't stick to the mold, it's also why paint may not either.
sean9c
Guru
The 100% guaranteed to result in good outcome way to do it is grind all the non skid off flat. Prime, apply new non skid and paint. If you intend to keep your old non skid use paint remover and scrub the remover with a wire brush to get the paint out of the lows of the non skid. Depending on how much of the old paint you get off would determine how well new paint will stick. I'd then scotch brite the heck out of it, then sand with about 180 grit.
What paint to use? You could use any marine paint. An LP like Awlgrip would be the most durable. It's also the most expensive.
Thinking that if you get the paint to stick on the high spots it will support lack of adhesion in the low spots. It doesn't work that way.
What paint to use? You could use any marine paint. An LP like Awlgrip would be the most durable. It's also the most expensive.
Thinking that if you get the paint to stick on the high spots it will support lack of adhesion in the low spots. It doesn't work that way.
FF
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"use paint remover"
Many paint removers contain Bromethalene chloride (SP?).
This dissolves both polly and epoxy resin., slowly.
Many paint removers contain Bromethalene chloride (SP?).
This dissolves both polly and epoxy resin., slowly.
Capt.Bill11
Guru
It's really not that complicated.
A couple of good scrubbings with a stiff brush and Comet or other abrasive cleaner will usually do the job. Then wipe the surface down with the proper solvent for the paint you're going to use just before painting.
As to which paint, for the best longevity and wear resistance it's pretty hard to beat a good two part poly.
A couple of good scrubbings with a stiff brush and Comet or other abrasive cleaner will usually do the job. Then wipe the surface down with the proper solvent for the paint you're going to use just before painting.
As to which paint, for the best longevity and wear resistance it's pretty hard to beat a good two part poly.
jleonard
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Be prepared for the painted non skid to no longer be very non skid. We have two cabin tops we painted and never had an adhesion issue but the surface is slippery now.
Star0210
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We're in the process of tackling the same thing...but whole damned boat.
The PO had painted the boat and apparently didn't prep very well, if at all. Just hitting it with a water hose has the paint all peeling off. I scraped the whole interior of the cockpit walls with a razor blade and it just came off in sheets.
Our plan is do the best we can with cleaning the molded non skid areas (which is like 90% of all of the deck areas) and sand it down a bit and paint. We're still trying to decide which paint to use but I think we're going to give Kiwigrip a try with a not too aggressive finish.
In most areas where I've scraped off this paint, the original gelcoat underneath is shiny and smooth as a baby's butt.
The PO had painted the boat and apparently didn't prep very well, if at all. Just hitting it with a water hose has the paint all peeling off. I scraped the whole interior of the cockpit walls with a razor blade and it just came off in sheets.
Our plan is do the best we can with cleaning the molded non skid areas (which is like 90% of all of the deck areas) and sand it down a bit and paint. We're still trying to decide which paint to use but I think we're going to give Kiwigrip a try with a not too aggressive finish.
In most areas where I've scraped off this paint, the original gelcoat underneath is shiny and smooth as a baby's butt.
O C Diver
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My charter boat is old (1975) and the molded non skid had been painted several times leaving it ineffective. We sanded it down to smooth glass, applied two coats of gelcoat, and then painted non skid over it. Whole process went quicker than you might think, and turned out very well.
Ted
Ted
go-planing
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Our boat has the raised diamond pattern non-skid. I spoke with a number of paint suppliers and concluded that sprayed on gel coat would be the best solution, as they all told me paint would tend to pool in the low spots more easily. I don't care if the finish is dull as the facets break up the light anyway. So far I've purchased some brass bristle bar-b-que grill brushes off Amazon. Looking around for a throw away spray gun that has the large diameter nozzle required to spray slightly thinned gel coat. Looks like Evercoat makes the spray on gel coat I'm needing.
psneeld
Guru
If using a thin non-skid like Interdeck...it doesn't pool any more than if it would sag on a vertical surface if applied properly.
Many of these non-skid paints such as Interdeck (versus specifically designed non-skid one coat layers such as Kiwi Grip) are best put on in thin layers if more than one is needed.
Many of these non-skid paints such as Interdeck (versus specifically designed non-skid one coat layers such as Kiwi Grip) are best put on in thin layers if more than one is needed.
We refinished our raised non-skid fore decks in 2012 using a 2 part polyurethane. We prepped using epoxy to fill holes and nicks. Then taped off and sanded using a standard random orbital sander till they were smooth, then rolled on an epoxy primer and sanded again. We then rolled on the AwlGrip, one coat and sprinkled on the non-skid. Then went back and rolled on one more coat. The hardest part was practicing to get the non-skid granules (Griptex) down evenly. We used a varnish roller to apply the primer and paint.
Attachments
Capt.Bill11
Guru
Nice.
When I was looking for a clearcoat to apply to my hull, I was asking around at an automotive paint supplier, and came across a cleaner to wipe on first, called "Tumbler". It is supposed to lift all foreign chemicals, things like silicone based wax, Armoral, grease, etc. I never did the project, so don't have any results to post.
djones44
Senior Member
There are rotary brush floor polishers that can clean out the valleys, distribute the wax, and then polish. Or so I am told.
The boater selling it to me at his garage sale grabbed it back and kept it, the dirty little nipper.
So, on to Craigslist I guess..
Very informative post. I'm looking at putting nonskid on the 'formerly nonskid' surfaces which have been covered with either bright white paint or gelcoat. One specific area is a bit 'puffy,' feeling like a rash to the touch.
Having read through all the relevant posts on this forum, I've settled on Interlux Interdeck. What I haven't determined is how to prepare the surfaces, other than a good cleaning.
I'd also like opinions on whether brushing works well enough; with something as expensive as this, I'd prefer to not have the wasted product which is inevitable with a roller (from extensive land-based experience).
Thanks-
aenlic
Having read through all the relevant posts on this forum, I've settled on Interlux Interdeck. What I haven't determined is how to prepare the surfaces, other than a good cleaning.
I'd also like opinions on whether brushing works well enough; with something as expensive as this, I'd prefer to not have the wasted product which is inevitable with a roller (from extensive land-based experience).
Thanks-
aenlic
PMF1984
Guru
Interlux has a help page and a help line, just google interlux paint help
boathealer
Guru
I really liked the Kiwigrip we used on a skiff did a number of years ago. Prep is 95% of the job. It held up really well It can be VERY aggressive - read instructions about knocking off the peaks. It is also VERY thick and is good for getting a uniform finish on a non-so-uniform substrate.
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mike66
Guru
https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=97706
A sailboater on my dock used this, and he's happy. Don't know his exact prep, but he did sand his decks first. One coat seemed to do it. I'm going to give it a try next spring.
A sailboater on my dock used this, and he's happy. Don't know his exact prep, but he did sand his decks first. One coat seemed to do it. I'm going to give it a try next spring.
The moulded "diamond" pattern non-skid on our bow is in eight small grids that are outlined by flat deck surface. The flat surfaces are in good condition...the non-skid areas are eroding and the blue substrate is showing through. My plan is to tape/mask off the flat surfaces and spray finish gel coat on the non-skid patches.
I'll clean the areas to be painted with the purple colored cleaner and then use brass barbeque grill brushes to scuff down in the depressions. Then clean a second time with the purple cleaner, which does a nice job removing wax and contaminants. (It will also turn gel coat yellow, so must be careful not to leave it on too long and rinse liberally with fresh water if it gets onto surfaces not to be recoated. This is the gelcoat I will use Evercoat® Don't care if it doesn't shine as the non-skid pattern breaks up the light anyway.
I'll clean the areas to be painted with the purple colored cleaner and then use brass barbeque grill brushes to scuff down in the depressions. Then clean a second time with the purple cleaner, which does a nice job removing wax and contaminants. (It will also turn gel coat yellow, so must be careful not to leave it on too long and rinse liberally with fresh water if it gets onto surfaces not to be recoated. This is the gelcoat I will use Evercoat® Don't care if it doesn't shine as the non-skid pattern breaks up the light anyway.
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boating rich
Veteran Member
Has any one tried Soft Sand for the “remove the prior non skid and paint, add soft sand, then paint” method?
Comodave
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My boat had a lot of crazing in the non skid areas. I sanded the non skid off completely and then painted with Kiwigrip. It covered the minor crazing and worked great. I use Woody Wax on it to help keep it clean.
Al
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Recemt;y added a 32 inch aluminum swim step over the original 21 inch fiberglass step.
the surface was smooth. Even with added hand rails on each side of the outboard edge aside of the OB mounts access I felt that the surface should be slip free. I applied a pattern of non-skid tape. 4" as I recall here at home. I taped those skid pieces (Gray in color) and after cleaning the remainder, use a off the shelf non-skid. Added almond shade of paint to match the hull color. To this I added the formula of non-skid sand purchased for that purpose.
Applied two coats both with the sand (it is find grain) followed by a final coat of almond paint. I had taped the edges of the step and around the hand rails giving the step a "Peek" of Aluminium surface.
The final product turned out looking well as well as functional in the area of safety.
Al-Ketcnikan
the surface was smooth. Even with added hand rails on each side of the outboard edge aside of the OB mounts access I felt that the surface should be slip free. I applied a pattern of non-skid tape. 4" as I recall here at home. I taped those skid pieces (Gray in color) and after cleaning the remainder, use a off the shelf non-skid. Added almond shade of paint to match the hull color. To this I added the formula of non-skid sand purchased for that purpose.
Applied two coats both with the sand (it is find grain) followed by a final coat of almond paint. I had taped the edges of the step and around the hand rails giving the step a "Peek" of Aluminium surface.
The final product turned out looking well as well as functional in the area of safety.
Al-Ketcnikan
I did the diamond non-skid in August using Interlux Perfection in lieu of the original gel coat. Entire bow and side decks. Easy to apply...two coats highly thinned. Brushed on because spray or roller would fill in the depressions between the diamonds. Truly looks "factory". The diamond sections would still look good if it has to be done again in the distant future. Lots of prep. Two weeks to get weather windows, prep, and empty marina (did it in the slip). (No idea why the photo attaches upside down....)
