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Old 07-05-2016, 09:58 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by psneeld View Post
a longer wire, softer wire brush will get down into the valleys. It will scratch the surface as sandpaper as long as the speed is slow enough not to burnish.
There are rotary brush floor polishers that can clean out the valleys, distribute the wax, and then polish. Or so I am told.

The boater selling it to me at his garage sale grabbed it back and kept it, the dirty little nipper.

So, on to Craigslist I guess..
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Old 09-30-2017, 11:30 AM   #22
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Very informative post. I'm looking at putting nonskid on the 'formerly nonskid' surfaces which have been covered with either bright white paint or gelcoat. One specific area is a bit 'puffy,' feeling like a rash to the touch.

Having read through all the relevant posts on this forum, I've settled on Interlux Interdeck. What I haven't determined is how to prepare the surfaces, other than a good cleaning.

I'd also like opinions on whether brushing works well enough; with something as expensive as this, I'd prefer to not have the wasted product which is inevitable with a roller (from extensive land-based experience).


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Old 09-30-2017, 12:14 PM   #23
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Interlux has a help page and a help line, just google interlux paint help
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Old 09-30-2017, 12:59 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Star0210 View Post
Our plan is do the best we can with cleaning the molded non skid areas (which is like 90% of all of the deck areas) and sand it down a bit and paint. We're still trying to decide which paint to use but I think we're going to give Kiwigrip a try with a not too aggressive finish.
In most areas where I've scraped off this paint, the original gelcoat underneath is shiny and smooth as a baby's butt.
I really liked the Kiwigrip we used on a skiff did a number of years ago. Prep is 95% of the job. It held up really well It can be VERY aggressive - read instructions about knocking off the peaks. It is also VERY thick and is good for getting a uniform finish on a non-so-uniform substrate.
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Old 10-01-2017, 07:49 AM   #25
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A sailboater on my dock used this, and he's happy. Don't know his exact prep, but he did sand his decks first. One coat seemed to do it. I'm going to give it a try next spring.
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Old 10-01-2017, 10:35 AM   #26
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The moulded "diamond" pattern non-skid on our bow is in eight small grids that are outlined by flat deck surface. The flat surfaces are in good condition...the non-skid areas are eroding and the blue substrate is showing through. My plan is to tape/mask off the flat surfaces and spray finish gel coat on the non-skid patches.

I'll clean the areas to be painted with the purple colored cleaner and then use brass barbeque grill brushes to scuff down in the depressions. Then clean a second time with the purple cleaner, which does a nice job removing wax and contaminants. (It will also turn gel coat yellow, so must be careful not to leave it on too long and rinse liberally with fresh water if it gets onto surfaces not to be recoated. This is the gelcoat I will use EvercoatĀ® Don't care if it doesn't shine as the non-skid pattern breaks up the light anyway.
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Old 10-04-2018, 08:50 PM   #27
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Has any one tried Soft Sand for the “remove the prior non skid and paint, add soft sand, then paint” method?
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Old 10-04-2018, 09:26 PM   #28
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My boat had a lot of crazing in the non skid areas. I sanded the non skid off completely and then painted with Kiwigrip. It covered the minor crazing and worked great. I use Woody Wax on it to help keep it clean.
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Old 10-04-2018, 11:27 PM   #29
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Recemt;y added a 32 inch aluminum swim step over the original 21 inch fiberglass step.
the surface was smooth. Even with added hand rails on each side of the outboard edge aside of the OB mounts access I felt that the surface should be slip free. I applied a pattern of non-skid tape. 4" as I recall here at home. I taped those skid pieces (Gray in color) and after cleaning the remainder, use a off the shelf non-skid. Added almond shade of paint to match the hull color. To this I added the formula of non-skid sand purchased for that purpose.
Applied two coats both with the sand (it is find grain) followed by a final coat of almond paint. I had taped the edges of the step and around the hand rails giving the step a "Peek" of Aluminium surface.
The final product turned out looking well as well as functional in the area of safety.

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Old 10-05-2018, 06:44 AM   #30
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I did the diamond non-skid in August using Interlux Perfection in lieu of the original gel coat. Entire bow and side decks. Easy to apply...two coats highly thinned. Brushed on because spray or roller would fill in the depressions between the diamonds. Truly looks "factory". The diamond sections would still look good if it has to be done again in the distant future. Lots of prep. Two weeks to get weather windows, prep, and empty marina (did it in the slip). (No idea why the photo attaches upside down....)

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Old 10-05-2018, 08:13 AM   #31
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That is where I am given that the gelcoat is so thin in several places where the non skid was worn away from where I am guessing the PO had there dingy resting for transits. I have been looking at some of the new boats and they seem to have different colors for the glossy sections and the non skid. Has anyone had luck doing this or am I better off keeping it simple and having one color over both the glossy and nonskid surfaces? BTW I am planning to do this myself.
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Old 10-05-2018, 10:54 AM   #32
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I stayed with the factory white because to my eye, a different color on an older boat says "repair", especially if the contrasting color was done with a grit type paint or glue on product. Getting the white to match the flat surfaces outlining the non-skid sections is tricky, but Perfection, at least, has many tones of white to choose from, and they can be tinted. Beyond personal preference, the preparation and application effort is likely about the same. ..although the Perfection product does require at least two coats with a cure time and application window between them.

I had asked our storage yard several times for a quote and they never got back to me. In retrospect I'm glad I did it myself as they probably would have sprayed it and filled in the diamond pattern. Done with a brush, it's still sharp and crisp looking. On our boat there were four areas with four non-skid sections in each. Took about a half day to tape and clean/wire brush each section, and then another day to apply two coats of paint (one morning and one late afternoon) to each area. That's about a week of effort not counting weather delays in between.
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Old 10-05-2018, 09:28 PM   #33
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I am coming to the same conclusion that it maybe easier to do myself. I have done a ton of varnishing toe rails over the years and it seems to be the same prep, tape, apply skill sets.
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